Did you know that creating forged rolled rings that are similar to the final machine part can give you the benefit of having reduced manufacturing cost? Aside from the fact that the ring production requires less input material, the entire process requires fewer machinery hours because there's also less material [']
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A seamless rolled ring forging is created through the process of ring rolling with the use of rolling mills. A circular preform of metal is pierced using the open die forging process to form a hollow shape that looks like a donut. Before placing the donut over the mandrel roll [']
Seamless rings are produced through a process called ring rolling. It uses a machine called a rolling mill and is intricately forged to produce near net shapes. When it comes to the making of the seamless rolled ring, various materials are used. Let's take a look at some of the [']
If you're looking to find answers to your questions about open die forging, then you've come to the right place. For you to understand why you should buy metal forgings, let's take a closer look at this type of process. What is Forging? Forging refers to the process involving the [']
The role that seamless rolled ring forging plays is extremely vital in industries that leaves absolutely no room for error and where accurate tolerances and perfect precision are major requirements. For instance, it would be virtually impossible for the aerospace industry to power jet engines and helicopter rotor assemblies without [']
If you take a second to look around, you'll find that rolled rings are everywhere. These rings are used in countless products that you depend on daily including valves, bearings, washers, flanges, gears, machines, clutches, and drives, just to name a few. These donut-shaped parts range in size from small, [']
The company shipped two seamless rolled rings produced from grade alloy steel to a customer in the industrial processing industry today. The customer in California is rebuilding a processing equipment machine which required two 78' OD x 72' ID x 5' High machined to size. Ferralloy, Inc. produced the [']
Seamless rolled rings are one of the most widespread components in metalworking today. These cylindrical metal parts, which are relatively short in height and possess a hollow middle section, are so popular that it's hard not to run into these components on a daily basis. A wide range of industries [']
The process of creating seamless rolled rings is one of the most fascinating and complicated parts in the realm of metal forging! Before advancements in technologies, ring-rolling systems were controlled manually by an operator who had to competently negotiate the proper working method. However, as time flies, the advent of [']
When it comes to seamless rolled rings, there are not only numerous benefits but also tons of practical applications for them in the real world. You might be surprised to find out what goes into the process and what this metal component is used for out in the world. Why [']
Hello all!
I finally found what may be the rolling mill for me, this vintage Buffalo beauty. However, I have a few questions that I cannot for the life of me find any answers to. If anyone has even speculative advice I'd greatly appreciate it. First off, here's the machine-
Now, it's listed as a Metal Thicknesser, and I cannot find that verbiage anywhere at all, much less in the specific context of vintage Buffalo machine. Is that even the same thing as a rolling mill? I assumed it is just a precursor to the modern 2-hi rolling mill, but I'm coming up with nothing.
If it isn't the same, could I use it as one? I don't expect to be trying to do any serious dimensional reduction, but for evening out billets and getting them more evenly 'thicknessed' off the press, it seems like it would do the job. One cautious recommendation I did receive was that it may not be made for hot metal. If that's the case, would machining a new set of rollers out of H13 be enough to rectify that? Assuming I don't run hot metal through it for hours on end, I don't think it would be a problem...
The last question I have is a problem of torque. The motor is 10hp which seems like a lot for 5" rollers, but is it enough to move hot metal? Without any documentation on it or what it was doing in the previous shop, it's hard to guess. Some suspect that it's for non-ferrous only, but again, does it really matter?
Coming across rolling mills (missed the one posted here a month or so back) this size is despairingly uncommon, and the modern equivalents are even larger and considerably more expensive even on a small scale. If the motor needs a swap, I was thinking of putting in a high torque motor of the same RPM so it wouldn't need adjusting to the reduction gears, and as said above I wouldn't be too opposed to machining new dies for it worst case. It's too neat of a machine to pass up on, so any advice would be greatly appreciated!
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John
looks like a great little machine to me. a few things to consider when using it...you WILL most likey break it. unless you are verry carefull. try and work back through the drive train and see if there is a purposefull weak link like a bronze pin of somthing similar. you can do a modern version with a VFD set to trip at a low ampage (i have my mcdonnald set like that) .my big rolling mill is 20hp at 5 inch width. and run through a variable speed hydrolic gearbox.
id get it for sure. make sure you are not greedy with bites i keep mine at 3mm max and actually it wont feed in a lot more . remember that double width is double risistance and any cold thick bits could kill it.
no loose clothing or gloves and make a feed table so you can push work in rather than holding it with tongs that can be drawn in.....drawn in does not necessarily mean drawn through...they could be fired back at you with some force.
almost none of these are made for hot metal so you will have to use and ajust/fix improve if needed.
Thanks for the insight! I think that a use/fix/use/fix mentality is great, especially with something potentially 100 years old. Also thanks for the infeed table idea, I've seen those on larger ones but haven't considered adding one. Much safer than stuffing it in with tongs. I do a large amount of running rough lumber through large planers at work and I see a lot of other people having trouble tripping the breakers because they try to take too large a pass or don't account for variation in thickness early on from cupping and various other warpage, but it seems incredibly easy to not do that if you feed in a board before closing the table against the cutters. That way, you only start to remove material when it's safe to not overload the machine, and I think the same logic applies to these sorts of mills. Especially with an infeed/outfeed table, taking the first pass to adjust milling reduction rather than just going for it. As for the VFD, I was leaning towards adding one anyway because it's 3 phase and I only have a single phase receptacle where it'll live. Is an amperage trip a common feature in more industrial VFDs? I don't remember seeing one on my grinder but haven't investigated for that specifically so it may be there without me noticing.
Thanks again! Incredibly grateful for all the info here!
The mill has finally come in, early last week and I've only had a cursory look around the beast. It's a very handsome machine all said, I'm very excited to get to use it. The reduction gear is only part of the drive train, it seems. I discovered a handful of other reducing gears underneath and in the back end where the two shafts couple with the power. Spinning the motor by hand is very easy and has me feeling good about the torque output. There's a mystery shaft directly under the rollers on the underside of the table but I can't figure out what it's for. There is a mitered gear with teeth only on half the circumference that looks like it was meant for some sort of limited raising/lowering possibly for an infeed table. But the rest of the linkage is missing and the only other clues are a pair of through holes in the frame that seem like they would intersect with the gearing. More likely than not I'll take out the mystery shaft or push it in a bit to get some space to work with and use the holes to bolt through. That way I can have an infeed table so I can keep my hands well away from the business end. I'm still hunting down wiring and plugs and the like to get it power, but should be able to do a test run shortly. Fingers crossed it goes well!
John,
I haven't been around here in quite a while, but saw this and figured I'd chime in. That looks like the baby brother to my Buffalo rolling mill. I have a bit of history on mine. It was bought by a jewelry manufacturer in VA and electrified in ~ (Not pictured is the enormous 5HP motor that sits on top of the platform above the gearbox on the right). Following that, it was maybe briefly used and then put into storage until I bought it a few years ago. I found a few stamps that include "13", so I'm guessing it was originally made in .
Mine has a clutch mechanism to disconnect power to the rollers which would be actuated via a large handle that attaches to a shaft at the end of the table by the rolling head (you can see some of the linkage under the table). That handle is broken off on mine and the movement of that clutch assembly is very stiff. I assume that's how the handle got broken. I do intend to fix that eventually so I have a better mechanical power disengagement in the even something wedges. Right now, the "safety" consists of a switch mounted on the rolling head (again, not pictured since I had the motor, etc, removed to move the mill when it was taken) that is connected to a kind of bizarre phase switching matrix that will reverse 2 phases of the motor to shift the rolls into reverse when it's thrown. This is less than ideal, but was at least relatively well thought out. There are buffer coils of some kind that help dissipate the voltage spike when you do this, though I was warned to shut it down before reset since they're only on one side of the switch matrix.
Once I put a new flat belt on it, it does a tremendous amount of work. I usually stop forging stock on the press/hammer at about 1/2"-5/8" thick and just roll from there. I tend to move the adjustment handle 1/4-1/2 turn per pass (depending on stock width), and can usually get 3-4 passes per heat. I seem to recall when I measured the adjustment screw that it was .020" per revolution, but don't quote me on that...
I've been doing fine with the stock rolls, but I've been considering taking the head apart to blueprint the rolls in case I ever need to remake them (or in case I come across a piece of H13 or big enough to just cut new ones on principal and retire the originals with the original leather belt.
I'd never seen another one like it, so I'm glad to know that there's more out there!
Wow that looks like it might be the exact same machine! From the scale, I think it's the same size, not larger. Would you be able to take some pictures of the linkage underneath? Mine has a bi-directional barrel switch in addition to the on/off switch that seems to have been added around the time of the motor and gearbox, so the clutch may not be needed but it'd be great to have reference to what it looks like. Like you, I've never seen another machine like it so it's neat to know they are out there!
So far I've put only narrow stock through, no more than 1.5" wide and taken thin passes but so far so good. With wrought it's awesome, but still testing to do on how thick of a bite it'll handle.
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