Considerations When Choosing a Cage

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The single most important item you will ever purchase for your parrot companion is its cage.   There are many factors that must be considered in making a safe and appropriate choice for your bird:

• Size
• Style
• Construction
• Bar Spacing
• Bar Orientation (horizontal/vertical)
• Ease of maintenance
• Cage Placement

Cage Size - The Bigger the Better

As humans, we seek out nature to enjoy the massive expanse of openness, beauty and the sense of freedom that it conveys.  Compared to the freedom they experience in the wild, our parrots are severely restricted in captivity.  A cage is your bird's primary environment and it is of the utmost importance that they be able to move freely, flap their wings, climb, play, do acrobatics, forage and perch at multiple levels within that environment.  Keeping your bird in a cage that doesn't allow for participation in these activities will be detrimental to the physical and mental well-being of your companion and may lead to the development of stereotypical behaviors such as screaming, feather plucking and aggressiveness. Therefore, the first rule when choosing a cage is to buy the largest possible cage that you can afford from both a space and financial perspective.

Please refer to our handy Cage Size Guide for species specific cage size recommendations.

Style Considerations

Cages should be purchased with functionality and safety taking precedence over  eye appeal.   Fortunately, there are cage manufacturers who are combining the best of both worlds by making safe, functional and attractive cages.   There are many choices when it comes to cage style.   Here are a few important considerations to ponder:

• Cage Shape

Cages come in a variety of shapes from rectangular to round.  Although round cages may be attractive, they really cut down on available living space for your bird and as such aren't recommended.

Again, size matters.  Be sure to choose a cage that offers as much horizontal and vertical space as possible.  Small birds such as finches and budgies need a large horizontal cage where they may fly from one side to another.  Large parrots like the Macaws and Cockatoos need a large vertical cage so they may climb up the bars but they should also be wide enough to allow for wing flapping.

• Dome vs. Play Top

Dome Top cages provide more space for your bird to climb and play.  They also allow for easier placement of toys and perches within the cage.

Play Top Cages have a built-in play area on the top of the cage which provides an alternate space for your bird to hang out under supervision.  

The best of both worlds can be achieved by the purchase of a dome top cage and a separate play gym that is portable to different rooms in the house so that your bird can participate in all aspects of family life.

• Door Size and Style

There are a few functions that should be considered relative to cage openings:

• • Do the cage doors allow for easy removal of your bird and cleaning?
  • Does the door configuration allow for cage access while at the same time prevent the bird from escaping?
  • Are the food bowls accessible from the outside of the cage?

Bar Spacing & Orientation

Bar spacing is an important safety consideration when to choosing a suitable cage.  Your parrot should not be able to put its head through and get wedged in the space between the bars.    Additionally,  the diameter and strength of each bar should be large enough to ensure that the bars can not be bent or broken by your bird.

A combination of vertical and horizontal bars will help to facilitate climbing and allow for more options when hanging toy accessories in the cage.

Please refer to our Cage Size Guide for recommendations as to species specific bar spacing.

Safe Construction

Sturdiness and durability are key factors in ensuring your bird will have a long lasting and secure environment.   Cages are made out of a variety of materials each with pros and cons and varied lifetimes.   

Metal is the most durable of the materials commonly used.   Metal cages are typically powder-coated iron or they are made from stainless steel.

Powder coated cages come in a variety of fashionable colors and are less expensive than Stainless Steel.

Stainless steel is the safest, most durable, toxic-free, easiest to clean cage material available.   If you can afford a stainless steel cage, it will be the best cage investment you can make.

Acrylic cages may allow for an enhanced view of your bird but, it is reported, that they are not as durable as metal bar cages and they offer restricted opportunities for climbing.

Wood cages are most often used for smaller, non-destructive bird species (i.e., finches, canaries).   Wood cages are difficult to clean and definitely not recommended for hookbills who will ultimately chew their way out of the cage.

New cages should be inspected thoroughly to ensure that they do not present any hazards that will endanger your bird as follows:

• Check all sides, connections, and fasteners.
• Are there loose parts or accessible parts that a mechanically inclined bird can disassemble?
• Are the seams well-fitting?
• Are the welds smooth and rust free?
• Are the bars and welds strong enough for your bird?
• Is the powder coat flaking?
• Is the cage top securely fastened to the frame?
• Are the locks and or latches adequate to contain your bird and prevent escapes?
• Do the perches fit securely?
• Can the bird escape when the tray is removed?

Ease of Maintenance

Nobody has perfected the self cleaning cage yet, but, there are many factors that will make your job easier:

• Stainless steel cages are the easiest to clean and they will never chip or rust.     
• Trays need to be easy to remove and clean.   The litter tray should be far enough below the grate to prevent birds from reaching down with their feet to grab food items that may have fallen and become spoiled or contaminated by droppings.
• Seed Guards help to reduce the mess inevitably created on your floor by tossed food, empty seed hulls, molted feathers and chewed up toys by deflecting these tossed items back into the cage bottom.
• Grates on cages for large birds should be easy to remove for cleaning but should also have a locking feature to prevent them from being pushed out by an escape artist.
• Food dishes for large birds should be accessible from the outside of the cage.  Many cages now incorporate this important feature.   Stainless steel or ceramic bowls will be the easiest to clean and disinfect.
• Casters will allow you to move a heavy cage more easily away from the wall to allow for cleaning.
• Storage space is often incorporated into cages in the form of a base cabinet or a simple shelf below the cage.  This provides a great spot to store food, toys, newspapers, cage covers and cage cleaning supplies.

I like to think of my bird's cage as her bedroom ' a happy place, with lots of stuff to do, that belongs to her.  I respectfully try keep out, except when it needs cleaning or toy changes.  A cage needs to provide safety, security, and comfort for your bird and peace of mind for you in knowing that she will be okay while you are out of the house.

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If you are looking for a new cage, or buying your first, here are some rules of thumb to go by:

BIGGER IS BETTER!

Birds are active creatures. Always try to get the largest cage you can that has bar spacing still suitable to your species.  A parrot needs to exercise it's wings and must have enough unobstructed room to do so. 

This means that you should look for a cage that is larger your bird's wing span with several inches on each side to spare.  This allows for any toys or perches that are in the cage and could injure the bird during vigorous activity.  If you have a long-tailed parrot, remember to plan for room for that too!  Your parrot should be able to turn in any direction without bumping any part of its body, wings or tail against anything.

If you have separate sleeper cages for your parrots, a smaller one is okay.  I bought Theo, my goffins cockatoo, a travel sized cage (30'X20'X18') that would never be suitable for daytime use, but is perfect to provide her a good night's sleep.  We haven't gotten her in it, because she is not yet comfortable with it, but we are working on it.

* Bar spacing is an important consideration.  

If the spacing is too wide for the smaller species, a head can get caught in the bars.  It's amazing how a head will fit through the bars in one direction and suddenly become so large that it won't come out the way it went in.

Also, it makes negotiation around the cage difficult for little feet. Likewise, a larger bird in a cage with too small bar spacing can get a foot caught in the bars.

Appropriate bar spacing:

1/4' ' 1/2'   '    finches, canaries

1/2'    '   budgies, lovebirds, parrotlets

1/2' ' 5/8'   '   cockatiels, ringnecks, doves, pigeons

5/8' ' 3/4'   '   conures, poicephalus, caiques, pionus, jardines

3/4' ' 1'   '   Amazons, african greys, mini macaws, goffins cockatoos

1' ' 1.5'   '   large macaws, large cockatoos

Easy and practical to service. 

Does it have slide out trays for easy bottom cleaning?   Can you service the food dishes from outside the cage? Is the front door large enough to easily and safely remove your parrot?  Is it on wheels?

Most newer cages include optional seed catchers.  They are a great help in keeping the mess under control, but they take up 8-12' more space around the cage on each side. I don't use mine for that reason.

Safely constructed.

Take a good look around at the cage.  Do you see anywhere that a foot could become lodged? Round dome-top cages tend to create this danger.  I know this sounds like kicking the tires when you're buying a car, but does it feel solid when you give it a good shake? Some cheaply made cages have sides that are not welded or bolted together where toes, legs  and wings can become lodged. 

Some birds are quite capable of breaking welds and larger parrots like macaws and cockatoos need to be in a very well constructed cage. Remember that your bird will explore every inch of this cage when you are away.

If they are anything like mine, they will be devising escape plans, which will be put into action the minute the front door closes.  Each of my cages is outfitted with padlocks ' 12 in all.

Non-toxic powder-coated or stainless steel.

A stainless steel is going to be the best that you can buy.  It will last a lifetime.  It won't chip or rust and will be sturdily made.  When you buy a powder-coated cage, please make sure it isn't from China. 

MOST of the cages made there have tested  positive for dangerous levels of lead and zinc in their powder coating. 

The cage  is the biggest investment you will make in your parrot.  It will be her home for the entirety of her life, which might be 50 or more years.  A stainless steel macaw cage will set you back more than $2,000, but when you divide this among the years of service it will provide, it doesn't seem like so much.

There are many other cages available, costing less, that are wonderful homes to our companion parrots.  Be sure to check them carefully for safety, durability and appropriate sizing.  Don't be afraid to contact the manufacturer for details about the cage and where it was made.

Patty Jourgensen specializes in avian health, behavior and nutrition and has been working with and caring for rescue birds since .

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