4 Advice to Choose a Bison Tractor Spare Parts

I have a Satoh s650g. They were bought out or replaced with Mitsubishi and were then called a bison from what I found out! It has the Mazda motor, with a loader and have a bush hog mower on it and have used it for 3yrs with no problems!! It runs forever on a tank of gas! It has a built in over-running pto clutch, power steering, and locking differential! You can run the pto either 540 or rpm just by moving the pto lever! 3stp trans with high and low, making it 6spd foward, 2 reverse! Kind of a handy little rig!! Live hydraulics but not pto. There is a picture of it in the tractor photos under Satoh If it has a 4 cyl gas engine, it is a Satoh/Mitsubishi, NOT chinese. Good little tractor, but beware: engine parts are rare and expensive. It is a Mazda commercial engine used in this tractor and Yale forklifts of the same age.

Recently my family purchased a farm with a Satoh S650G Bison tractor in poor maintenance. With no real knowledge of who what or how, I searched the internet and came upon Tractorbynet.com and found a lot of usefull information. My research on all this took 8 or more hours of searching through lots of threads and posts and slowly I collected a lot of usefull information. I have compiled that long search into a single post, all info, all right here type thing. Below you will find all the regular maintanence parts info I could find and the confirmed part numbers I used. Based on this information I turned our old and busted into smooth and performing. I completed this maintenance today, updated all my notes and pasted it all below. I have also attached a zip file with all the uploaded scans of the Bison wiring diagram, parts explode sheets, and anything else I got that was usefull.

IF it wasn't for all the other folks here and their help I could not have done it.

With this information, regular simply tractor maintenance can be done locally just about anywhere in the US.

If you need anything beyond this, very seriously consider giving Bill a call. You can find his info below, his , his website. I cannot thank Bill enough for his time and help, and I have his number on record in our maintenance notes.

I have included quotes from many others who have posted information I found very helpfull. Most of this is NOT mine to provide, simply a condensing of all the contributors here. Because of all their help, I have a well running tractor. In return, I am making this post to help others.



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Satoh Bison S650G

Tune up and oil change: $110.25 (Ignition, oil and air filter)

"they told us it was a 25HP Mazada engine # S
year between -"

My Motor Plate States:

60.23 Cu In. 27HP/RPM

"I have the original Mfg. brochure for Satoh S-650G
It states Max output 25BHP
Max PTO output 23 @ rpm
Max PTO torque 46.9 ft.lb./rpm @ rpm " - from other postings

Bill @ Valley Power - Call toll free 1-800-609-




Ignition:

Spark Plugs: Champion (N4C) - NAPA 803C (confirmed works well)

Wires: NAPA (solid core) and (resistor core - needed if running a radio ect)(confirmed)
Custom short length sets are also available at Tractor Supply and you can length to suit.

Distributor Cap: NAPA EP710, Borg Warner# C 585 (NAPA part number confirmed)

Rotor Button: NAPA EP711 (confirmed (but you have to push back the metal tongue to get it on)

Points: NAPA CS360, Borg Warner# A 529 - new points set @ 18 thousanths

Condenser: NAPA EP300, Borg Warner# G 658


"I finally found a source of the Pertronix electronic ignition for the Satoh S650G.

It is Genesse Products, Genesee Products - Electronic Ignition for Agricultural and Industrial Equipment

Genesee Products - Electronic Ignition for Agricultural and Industrial Equipment

The part # is MA-141" -other posting



Air:

Air Filter: NAPA (confirmed), New Holland (confirmed), Luber-finer LAF

Smaller tractors including Beaver and Bison:
Vaned cylinder, 7.250" long x 3.281" body diameter (4.218" diameter including vanes),
equivalent to NAPA : Luber-finer LAF

I checked the LAF, which is what my D II (Bull clone) would take, and it looks like the right filter.

Larger tractors including Bull: Vaned cylinder, 10.375" long x 4.085" body diameter (5.147" diameter including vanes),
equivalent to NAPA : Luber-finer LAF



Lubricants:



Motor Oil Change:

Oil: 10/30 or 10/40
Oil Filter: NAPA (short)(confirmed); Puralator Plus L (long)(confirmed), Luber-finer PH
Approximately 4 quarts with short, 4 1/2 quarts with long.



***The hydraulics and the rear end are separate reservoirs on the S650G.


Transmission:

(Capacity 0.92gal - 3.5 lit)

Check the transmission level on the left side of the transmission by your left foot.

With a split reservoir, I am not sure if 80w gear oil or hydrolic oil is used.


Hydrolic:

JD type 303 is generally considered a standard to emulate, but not the only oil you can use.
Buy a tractor hydraulic oil that is compatible with JD type 303. Universal Tractor Fluid is one,
International Hytran is another. Bill - satohparts.com

Hydraulic oil in the reservoir under the seat. On some tractors with an aftermarket seat, the cap
can be covered by the seat. I had to remove my seat to get to this fill spot.

Check the hydraulic oil level on the left side of the case.
Older tractors had a sight glass.

Newer tractors have a level plug.



Steering:

Steering Wheel w/cap: 17 1/2 Diamator, 3 1/2" Dish, 36 splines.


Exhaust:

Muffler Replacement: What I did was call Bill@http://www.satohparts.com/. His practical advice was to drop the
exhaust at the manifold and take it in to a muffler shop and have them do it up right. Good advice.

I however needed to replace the muffler and was short on time. So what I did was simply drop the exhaust at
the manifold (4 12mm nuts removed after warming them up with run time and lots of lubricatant). My problem was the
muffler flange studs were stripped, and the muffler was shot. I removed this, took the rest into the auto parts store,
and found a 1 7/8" to 2 or 2 1/4 adaptor. I then took the adaptor into Tractor Supply and found a Case muffler in stock that
had a 2" inlet. The 1 7/8ths adaptor was close but not dead on. I cut it with a saws all twice on the end cutting straight down
to give it four slots so it could squeeze with a clamp. 2" to 2" with a 2" clamp is a no brainer.

I used a saws all and just cut the exhaust in front of the flange area for the muffler. Bolted it all together and ran into a
problem. The muffler sits under your left foot and is tight with the left break lingage. My choice in muffler was close in width
but much longer in length. I solved this with a saws all by cutting the exhaust pipe further up. It all fit in nice and snug.

I can now replace the muffler at any time with a 2" clamp and a 2" inlet exhaust muffler. The Case muffler is a common stock item
at Tractor supply so continued maintenance will be no problem.