DIY chrome plating. | The Garage Journal

Has anyone had much luck with those DIY copper / nickle/ chrome platting kits? Given the quote I got locally for doing all of the small knobs/ etc on my lathe, I think it may be my only viable option. I feel like they gave me a go away price not wanting to do it as they are booked out months.

I seem to recall a really good thread or post set in a bigger thread hear on GJ, where someone documented the entire process step by step really well. Trying to find those posts, but not much luck with the search function. Wish I would have saved those links when I saw them.

Here is something to consider.

Has anyone had much luck with those DIY copper / nickle/ chrome platting kits? Given the quote I got locally for doing all of the small knobs/ etc on my lathe, I think it may be my only viable option. I feel like they gave me a go away price not wanting to do it as they are booked out months.

I seem to recall a really good thread or post set in a bigger thread hear on GJ, where someone documented the entire process step by step really well. Trying to find those posts, but not much luck with the search function. Wish I would have saved those links when I saw them.

Here is something to consider. One of the members of this forum owns a company called http://phoenixspecialtycoatings.com/index.html
She does absolutely beautiful work with powder coatings. Powder coating comes in as many colours as you can think up. One of these finishes is a chrome. Give her a call and maybe send along a few pictures. She is cudachick68.
If you decide to take your parts to a chrome plater, make sure you itemize the pieces and take pictures. This is a good idea any time you leave parts somewhere. Phoenix will take good care of your parts.
You may want to read my recent post that tells the loss of a Porsche 911 engine at a plating shop.
If this were my project, I might be considering a bright color for my knobs.

Has anyone had much luck with those DIY copper / nickle/ chrome platting kits? Given the quote I got locally for doing all of the small knobs/ etc on my lathe, I think it may be my only viable option. I feel like they gave me a go away price not wanting to do it as they are booked out months.

I seem to recall a really good thread or post set in a bigger thread hear on GJ, where someone documented the entire process step by step really well. Trying to find those posts, but not much luck with the search function. Wish I would have saved those links when I saw them.

Lots of older stuff we consider chrome is actually nickel. Even most chrome is a flash of chrome over nickel. Consider electroless nickel, it's the most durable and lowest cost to set up. Hardest part is setting up to do flash copper plating, which is an essential pre-requisite for good nickel. Extremely good, clean, greaseless prep is also essential. Waxes embedded in the pores from polishing compounds can really frustrate you in chemical metal finishing. Electroless is more matte finish, but stays on better and is easier. Shiny nickel peels easily.

In the research I have done, it seems that is the way to go, and the Nickel is the base for Chrome anyways, so if I'm not happy with the Nickel result I can then go to the next step. Lots of research and learning to be had before I commit.

I do like the idea of doing it myself as its a lot of small parts that would be difficult to replace if not impossible. Interesting tidbit about plating, rust resistance and physical chemistry vs analytical chemistry:

The tendency for a metal to corrode is in general measured by its electrode potential. The more negative the potential, the less resistant to corrosion it is compared to other metals. Here's a chart of electrode potentials.



It's odd to note that nickel is only slightly less resistant to corrosion than iron, and chromium is actually less resistant than iron. In other words, to be technical, chromium has more negative electrode potential than iron, and nickel has less electrode potential. That's analytical chemistry.

However, here's where physical chemistry comes into play. The electrode potential states which metal will react most easily but it doesn't predict the rate the reaction will take place at. In physical reality, chromium has a much slower reaction rate than nickel, and nickel has a reaction rate about 100 times slower than steel. So, both can be used as a protective coating for steel, by plating them onto it. The plating tends to exclude oxygen and water from the steel, and protect it from corrosion. Once it pinholes, though, the steel underneath oxidizes readily, and quickly. That's why you get a rust bloom scattered all over chrome parts, and when you clean off that rust bloom, it almost disappears. The pinholes are tiny, and the rust produced is a very small defect in the chrome. If it's removed quickly enough and then protected by clear coat or wax, rust freckling on chrome, once removed, is almost invisible.

Another anomaly is aluminum, which is very negative, and thus quite reactive. Aluminum oxidizes almost instantly in air, but the aluminum oxide formed is very durable and tends to protect the underlying aluminum from oxidizing. Thus, aluminum turns slightly whitish from the pure silver color of unoxidized, and then doesn't oxidize further very fast. Grant,
You mention chrome plating the pot metal handles. In my personal experience, even chrome shops can have difficulty chrome plating pot metal. I'm no expert on the subject, but a Google search states that pot metal needs to be perfectly clean, no oxidation, corrosion or imperfections before plating. It can look perfect to the naked eye, but still not perfect for the chroming process to stick. I had a pair of door handles for my El Camino re-chromed at a local chrome shop about five years ago, and it was a complete waste of money. I had already researched and read about the possible problems associated with plating pot metal, but I had it done anyway. Within a few weeks the handles developed bubbles under the chrome. Fortunately, I've since purchased perfect reproduction handles. Now it's possible my shop just didn't take enough time and care with my handles, but I still can't imagine a DIY chrome plating job would turn out better results than a professional shop on pot metal, but who knows? Just a heads up in case you aren't already aware, and good luck on your project. Looks fantastic btw!

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1. The chrome plating machine line is a linear plating production line, its process arrangement is more flexible, each tank can be reciprocated or jumped. The loading and unloading can be done at the same end or separately at both ends.

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3. High degree of automation, screen display and touch screen control, can set several process procedures according to customer requirements.

4. Adopt PLC frequency converter and photoelectric switch etc. control, accurate positioning.

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Chrome Plating Characteristics

• Electrolyte Composition: Chromic acid with strong oxidizing properties, not metal chromium salts.

• Low Current Efficiency: Requires good suction devices and chromium fog inhibitors due to hydrogen precipitation.

• Additional Anions: The solution must contain small amounts of additional anions like SO42-, F-, SiF62-.

• Dispersing Ability: Low, requiring the use of elephant anodes and protective cathodes for complex shapes.

• High Current Density: Uses very high current densities and tank voltages, often necessitating power supplies over 12 volts.

• Temperature and Current Density Control: Strict control and coordination are required for these parameters.

• Insoluble Anodes: Uses lead, lead-tin alloy, or lead-antimony alloy instead of metal chromium.

• Passivation: The plating process does not allow power cuts due to the chromium layer's tendency to passivate.

Chrome Plating Process

1. Substrate Preparation Prepare the substrate, typically metal materials such as steel or aluminum, for chromium plating.

2. Surface Cleaning Remove impurities like oil and dust to ensure a clean surface.

3. Negative Treatment Place the substrate in the plating tank with the anode and add a chromium salt-containing plating solution.

4. Electroplating Use direct current to deposit chromium metal from the anode onto the substrate surface.

5. Cleaning Remove any residual plating solution to maintain surface cleanliness.

6. Polishing Improve the glossiness and smoothness of the coating through polishing.

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7. Inspection Check the thickness, uniformity, and adhesion of the coating on the electroplated product.

8. Packaging Package qualified chrome-plated products to prevent damage to the coating.

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Ruisite's chrome plating machines are specifically designed for applications where high-quality, durable, and aesthetically pleasing finishes are required. Widely used in:

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