Everything You Need To Know To Find The Best Chinese Tractor Engine Diesel Parts

When it comes time to buy replacement Jinma tractor parts, there are two pieces of information that will be indispensable: the make and model of your tractor, and the model of your engine.

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This information is generally easy to get—on most tractors the make and model will be painted on the side of your hood. For example, the tractor pictured to the left has Jinma 180 painted along the side of the hood. Most tractors come from the factory with the brand and model number painted on the hood like this. Check for small metal plates on the dash, inside the cab, or on the front fender for additional make and model information.

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If your tractor has had an aftermarket paint job or the stencil has faded over time, you’ll need to do a bit more work. The next best option is to identify the model of your engine and work backward. Begin by opening your hood and locating the metal information tag on your engine. These tags can be found on the valve cover or the side of the engine block. You can then use the list below to match your engine model with the correct Jinma tractor model.

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Jinma Tractor Models and Engines

Jinma 200-224 (also includes 180-184) Engines:

• TY290 - 2 Cylinder
• TY295 - This engine was not used very often at all. It’s a 2-cylinder version of the TY395. Note: this is not the same engine as the 295T.
• Yang Dong TY380 - 3 Cylinder
• LaiDong LL380 - 3 Cylinder

Jinma 254-284 Engines:

• Yang Dong Y385T - 3 Cylinder
• LaiDong KM385 - 3 Cylinder

Jinma 304-354 Engines:

• TY395 Yang Dong TY485 - 4 Cylinder
• Laidong 4L22 - 4 Cylinder
• Yang Dong TY480 - This engine is not common (used primarily in generators).

Jinma 404-454 Engines:

• SLABT - 3 cylinder
• C490BT - 4 cylinder
• A498BT - 4 cylinder

Jinma 504-554 Engines:

• SLABT - 4 cylinder

Just picked up a tractor (Shenniu) with the 259T engine. I am about to replace the headgasket. I will have the head checked for planing and will lap the valves and torque in 3 stages the 10 headbolts to 95 ft lbs.
I welcome any advice. I am particularly interested in finding more about this apparantly common engine made by as many a 50 Chinese companies. Was it originally a German design as I have read or a Kubota?  If so what model so I can research that engine too? I see this engine by many names, mine is a Hubei, and that they are used in generators. Does the injection pump need oil? As for manuals, I have a few but none that cover the brakes which do not work. I see I can get parts from Ali express and I have ordered some. I plan to install a lower hose engine heater for easier starts. I will clean the injectors adjust the decompressor and valves, change all fluids and hoses, filters and check to see if the preheater is working. any other suggestions and information as to the engine particularly . Tractor is 4wd with a loader and backhoe. Sounds an interesting project. I had a mate who bought one of these Chinesium garden tractors and he played with it, got it running an sold it on. Have heard fair comments and nothing bad about except for the made in china tag.
Ask the supplier you mentioned Ali Express for any finer details he may also be able to help. Best thing I can suggest is that when you do replace the head gasket after surfacing the head/s that you use a copper head gasket spray just as a final insurance of a good seal. I have even used it on old head gaskets with success on small petrol engines.
When you say the brakes dont work. Are they hydraulic or mechanical? Then a whole heap of questions after that reply that may guide you along the way od having brakes again. Always try to include as much detail as you can on anything you need answers to. It helps others who maybe able to help have a better idea. Pics always help a lot as well. Glad you have a diagram to go by for the brakes. Most likely the cause of your brake issue is that a linkage is seized or at worse an oil leak onto the brake shoes. So start by spraying a product like WD40, Inox or even better Lanox onto all the pivot points of the linkages from the pedal back to the brakes. Give them a generous spray and get someone to operate the pedal and you watch for the movement of the linkages. To coin a phrase, "pull your finger out" of the way when testing the brakes and please ensure that the wheels are chocked so the tractor will not roll over you.
If the linkages move then its time to explore inside where the brake shoes are. Is this system a brake shoe inside a drum, if so it will be easy to fix. If oil soaked you will have 2 choices try a product similar to 'Brakleen' and spray them to release the oil from them then replace the oil seals that are leaking, again an easy and cheap job. I have never used Brakleen as I find it just as easy to buy new linings and rivet the linings onto the old shoes, maybe these are bonded and this too can be done at the brake shop. I would guess the size to be similar to a motor bike brake shoe so linings should be available if not and you can buy new shoes all the better.
If there is an oil leak as suggested replace the offending seal, but carefully inspect the surface that the seal runs on to make the seal. If there is a ridge then this surface must be repaired by one of two choices, machine it in a lathe but only take the smallest of cuts or best way is to use a product like Speedy Sleeve available through a bearing shop. These are a very thin sheet metal collar that you press over the surface that is damaged. You must accurately measure the OD of the surface to be repaired and then buy that size. Easy job to do I have done quite a few on the tractors and stationary engines I have repaired.
If you get the chance I would like to see a few pics of your project even of the brakes once you get in there.

That is the best of the copper spray gasket sealers, well done. my daily driver (beater) is an '83 toyo p/u diesel, and i am ashamed to admit that i haven't greased or changed the oil or any filter in over 10 years...

in my defense, it never leaves town, and rarely ever gets into 4th gear let alone 5th.

and i might put 500 miles per year, maybe

it does not have power steering, and i notice when it needs air added to the tires when it about kills me to steer the darn thing, of course it doesn't help that i have near a ton of crap in the bed under a steel work top.

i note that when i top the tires off with air to the recommended 32psi from the low 20's it feels like i have power steering too!

come to think about it, it is way past time to add some air!

if it weren't so damned hot and humid, i might even be guilted into changing the oil!


bob g