How to Choose threading in lathe machine?

31, Mar. 2025

 

Unit 6: Lathe Threading – Manufacturing Processes 4-5

11 Unit 6: Lathe Threading

OBJECTIVE

After completing this unit, you should be able to:

BH Product Page

• Determine the infeed depth.

• Describe how to cut a correct thread.

• Explain how to calculate the pitch, depth, and minor diameter, width of flat.

• Describe how to set the correct rpm.

• Describe how to set the correct quick change gearbox.

• Describe how to set the correct compound rest.

• Describe how to set the correct tool bit.

• Describe how to set both compound and crossfeed on both dials to zero.

• Describe the threading operation.

• Describe the reaming.

• Describe how to grind a tool bit.

Lathe Threading

Thread cutting on the lathe is a process that produces a helical ridge of uniform section on the workpiece. This is performed by taking successive cuts with a threading toolbit the same shape as the thread form required.

Practice Exercise:

1. For this practice exercise for threading, you will need a piece of round material, turned to an outside tread Diameter.

2. Using either a parting tool or a specially ground tool, make an undercut for the tread equal to its single depth plus .005 inch.

3. The formula below will give you the single depth for undertaking unified threads:

d = P x 0.750

Where d = Single Depth

P = Pitch

n = Number of threads per inch (TPI)

Infeed Depth = .75 / n

Thread Calculations

To cut a correct thread on the lathe, it is necessary first to make calculations so that the thread will have proper dimensions. The following diagrams and formulas will be helpful when calculating thread dimensions.

Example: Calculate the pitch, depth, minor diameter, and width of flat for a ¾-10 NC thread.

P   =   1 / n   =   1 / 10   =   0.100 in.

Depth   =   . x Pitch   =   . x .100   =   . in.

Minor Diameter   =   Major Diameter – (D + D)   =   .750 – (.075 + .075)   =   0.600 in.

Width of Flat   =   P / 8   =   (1 / 8) x (1/10)   =   . in.

Procedure for threading:

1. Set the speed to about one quarter of the speed used for turning.

2. Set the quick change gearbox for the required pitch in threads. (Threads per inch)

Figure 1. Thread and Feed Chart

Figure 2. Setting Gearbox

3. Set the compound rest at 29 degrees to the right for right hand threads.

Figure 3. 29 Degrees

4. Install a 60 degree threading tool bit and set the height to the lathe center point.

Figure 4. 60 Degree Threading Tool

5. Set the tool bit and a right angles to the work, using a thread gage.

Figure 5. Using the Center gage to position the tool for machining Threads 

6. Using a layout solution, coat the area to be threaded.

Figure 6. Layout

7. Move the threading tool up to the part using both the compound and the cross feed. Set the micrometer to zero on both dials.

Figure 7. Compound                                    Figure 8. Cross Feed

8. Move cross feed to the back tool off the work, move carriage to the end of the part and reset the cross feed to zero.

Figure 9. End of the part and Cross feed to Zero

9. Using only the compound micrometer, feed in .001 to .002 inch.

Figure 10: Compound feed in .002 inch

10. Turn on the lathe and engage the half nut.

Figure 11: On/Off Lever and Half Nut 

11. Take a scratch cut on the part without cutting fluid. Disengage the half nut at the end of the cut, stop the lathe and back out the tool using the cross feed. Return the carriage to the starting position.

Figure 12. Starting Position

12. Using a screw pitch gage or a rule check the thread pitch. (Threads per inch)

Figure 13. Screw Pitch Gage                  Figure 14. Screw Pitch Gage(10)

13. Feed the compound in .005 to .020 inch for the first pass using cutting oil. As you get near the final size, reduce the depth of cut to .001 to .002 inch.

14. Continue this process until the tool is within .010 inch of the finish depth.

Figure 15. Threading operation

15. Check the size using a screw thread micrometer, thread gage, or using the three wire system.

Figure 16. Three wire measurement

Contact us to discuss your requirements of threading in lathe machine. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

16. Chamfer the end of the thread to protect it from damage.

Reaming

Reamers are used to finish drilled holes or bores quickly and accurately to a specified sized hole and to produce a good surface finish. Reaming may be performed after a hole has been drilled or bored to within 0.005 to 0.015 inch of the finished size since the reamer is not designed to remove much material.

The workpiece is mounted in a chuck at the headstock spindle and the reamer is supported by the tailstock.

The lathe speed for machine reaming should be approximately 1/2 that used for drilling.

Reaming with a Hand Reamer

The hole to be reamed by hand must be within 0.005 inch of the required finished size.

The workpiece is mounted to the headstock spindle in a chuck and the headstock spindle is locked after the workpiece is accurately setup. The hand reamer is mounted in an adjustable reamer wrench and supported with the tailstock center. As the wrench is revolved by hand, the hand reamer is fed into the hole simultaneously by turning the tailstock handwheel. Use plenty cutting fluid for reaming.

Reaming with a Machine Reamer

The hole to be reamed with a machine reamer must be drilled or bored to within 0.010 inch of the finished size so that the machine reamer will only have to remove the cutter bit marks. Use plenty cutting fluid for reaming.

Grind a Lathe Tool bit

Procedure:

1. Grip the tool bit firmly while supporting the hand on the grinder tool set.

2. Hold the tool bit at the proper angle to grind the cutting edge angle. At the same, tilt the bottom of the tool bit in towards the wheel and grind 10 degrees side relief or clearance angle on the cutting edge. The cutting edge should be about .5 inches long and should be over about ¼ the width of the tool bit.

3. While grinding tool bit, move the tool bit back and forth across the face of the grinding wheel. This accelerates grinding and prevents grooving the wheel.

4. The tool bit must be cooled frequently during the grinding operation by dip into the water. Never overheat a tool bit.

5. Grind the end cutting angle so that it form an angle a little less than 90 degrees with the side cutting edge. Hold the tool so that the end cutting edge angle and end end relief angle of 15 degrees are ground at the same time.

6. Check the amount of end relief when the tool bit is in the tool holder.

7. Hold the top of the tool bit at about 45 degrees to the axis of the wheel and grind the side rake about 14 degrees.

8. Grind a slight radius on the point of the cutting tool, being sure to maintain the same front and side clearance angle.

Grind front                          Grind side                          Grind radius

Cutting tool Materials

Lathe tool bits are generally made of four materials:

1. High speed steel

2. Cast alloys

3. Cemented Carbides

4. Ceramics

The properties that each of these materials possess are different and the application of each depends on the material being machined and the condition of the machine.

Lathe tool bits should possess the following properties.

1. They should be hard.

2. They should be wear resistant.

3. They should be capable of standing up to high temperatures developed during the cutting operation.

4. They should be able to withstand shock during the cutting operation.

Cutting tool Nomenclature

Cutting tools used on a lathe are generally single pointed cutting tools and although the shape of the tool is changed for various applications. The same nomenclature applies to all cutting tools.

Procedure:

1. Base: the bottom surface of the tool shank.

2. Cutting Edge: the leading edge of the tool bit that does the cutting.

3. Face: the surface against which the chip bears as it is separated from the work.

4. Flank: The surface of the tool which is adjacent to and below the cutting edge.

5. Nose: the tip of the cutting tool formed by the junction of the cutting edge and the front face.

6. Nose radius: The radius to which the nose is ground. The size of the radius will affect the finish. For rough cut, a 1/16 inch nose radius used. For finish cut, a 1/16 to ⅛ inch nose radius is used.

7. Point: The end of the tool that has been ground for cutting purposes.

8. Shank: the body of the tool bit or the part held in the tool holder.

9. Lathe Tool bit Angles and Clearances

Proper performance of a tool bit depends on the clearance and rake angles which must be ground on the tool bit. Although these angles vary for different materials, the nomenclature is the same for all tool bits.

• Side cutting edge angle: The angle which the cutting edge forms with the side of the tool shank. This angle may be from 10 to 20 degrees depending on the material being cut. If angle is over 30 degrees, the tool will tend to chatter.

• End cutting edge angle. The angle formed by the end cutting edge and a line at right angle to the centerline of the tool bit. This angle may be from 5 to 30 degrees depending on the type of cut and finish desired. For roughing cuts an angle of 5 to 15 degrees, angle between 15 and 30 degrees are used for general purpose turning tools. The larger angle permits the cutting tool to be swivelled to the left when taking light cuts close to the dog or chuck, or when turning to a shoulder.

• Side Relief (clearance) angle: The angle ground on the flank of the tool below the cutting edge. This angle may be from 6 to 10 degrees. The side clearance on a tool bit permit the cutting tool to advance lengthwise into the rotating work and prevent the flank from rubbing against the workpiece.

• End Relief (clearance) angle: the angle ground below the nose of the tool bit which permits the cutting tool to be fed into the work. This angle may be 10 to 15 degrees for general purpose cut. This angle must be measured when the tool bit is held in the tool holder. The end relief angle varies with the hardness and type of material and type of cut being taken. The end relief angle is smaller for harder materials, to provide support under the cutting edge.

• Side Rake Angle: The angle at which the face is ground away from the cutting edge. This angle may be 14 degrees for general purpose tool bits. Side rake centers a keener cutting edge and allows the chip to flow away quickly. For softer materials, the side rake angle is generally increased.

• Back (Top) Rake: The backward slope of the tool face away from the nose. This angle may be about 20 degrees and is provide for in the tool holder. Back rake permits the chips to flow away from the point of the cutting tool.

UNIT TEST

1. What is pitch for ¼-20 tap?

2. To what angle must the compound be turned for Unified Thread?

3. Explain why you swivel the compound in Question 2.

4. What is the depth of thread for UNF ½-20 screw?

5. How would you make a left-hand thread? This is not covered in the reading—think it out?

6. What Tool bit do we use for cutting thread?

7. Please describe Center Gage.

8. What do we use to check the thread pitch(Thread Per Inch)?

9. The first and final pass, how much do we feed the compound in?

10. Name four material that use to make Tool bits.

For more information, please visit pipe threading lathe machine.

Help me to understand Lathe chart and threading - Practical Machinist

Hello all, I've been a hobbiest for several years now. I have a Bridgeport mill series II and a Taiwan Enco lathe model from .

Lately I've decided to try my hand at single point threading. I've watched countless videos and read many posts on how to do it but of course my threads don't come out correctly.

So here is my set up to start with. I decided to pick 14 tpi as a random thread, but it doesn't matter what I pick as I've tried several different ones. I'm not interested in the diameter or even using a test nut, just trying to make consistent passes to cut the threads repetitivly and then check with a thread gauge (like the kind that comes in a standard tap and die set) to see if I'm getting the timing of the half nut and the threads right. My problem is I'm off, or the machine is but I'm guessing it is me.

The machine is set on B8 per the chart on the lathe for 14 tpi. I've set the speed rather lowish to keep things simple 240 rpm. Compound is set at 29.5*. Using a carbide insert 60* thread tool. I catch the thread chasing dial on any number since it is an even thread. So I start with a scratch pass, terminate in an undercut, disengage the half nut, back out the cross slide, move the carriage back to the start, zero the cross slide, increase the compound a few thousand, wait for the timing of the thread dial to catch a number and engage. Repeat as necessary and then check with the thread gauge and I'm off by one tpi. When I set it for a 14 tpi, I end up getting 13 tpi on the gauge.

This happens consistently and with different tpi and settings according to the chart.I have neve had one match up correctly. I've used different thread gauges in the thought that maybe I had a bad one and that was really the problem. Not so as I've also check with nuts after turning the diameter to what is needed first. Nut doesn't want to thread on correctly. I've checked the threads with the dreaded three wire (Pee Dee?) gauge and the size is correct but the tpi is off.

I'm starting to wonder if maybe this lathe is set up to cut metric threads? My next step is to get a metric thread gauge and check the tpi and see.

What is the chart depicting in the third pic? I don't understand this one.

What am I doing wrong?

Thoughts?

Thanks.

Attachments

  • IMG_.jpg
  • IMG_.jpg
  • IMG_.jpg
  • IMG_.jpg
  • IMG_.jpg
First off 24O RPM is way too fast for a guy new to threading. 60 to 100 for a new guy.

Start the travel a bit before the part to see all is tightened up on the feed.

Guess with set for 14 thread I would drop on the very same line for a number of passes to see a perfect match/or not to a number of cuts at the same in-feed perhaps .005 just to prove nothing is slipping.and to see if you get a 14 thread or what.

Next set the gears to a metric thread ..doing the same with dropping and not releasing the thread dial. to see if you track-same and make the chosen metric thread.

This may tell if you have a metric change gear in place..

oh! see that you have the cross dial set to a zero and coming back to that same zero every time.
The compound set to a zero and the in-feed coming with in-feed of the compound.
Be sure the thread dial is well fixed and close mesh with the screw when dropped..
See the bit and tool holder are tight.
Put a strip of masking tape on the drive shoulder and on the lead screw marked with a sharpy to see they do not chang/slip as if a broken pin. Timm,

My hunch is that you are not actually getting 13 tpi, but 13.125 tpi. The easiest way to confirm or infirm that is to engage the half nut when the carriage is away form the headstock, feed it under power for a few turns/seconds, then shut it off without disengaging the half nut.

Then, set up an indicator on the ways between the headstock and the carriage and measure the travel of the carriage over say 10 turns of the spindle. Put a mark on the spindle or chuck and on something fixed so that you can rotate the spindle exactly 10 turns. See what the travel is. If you are dealing with 13tpi, the travel should be 0.769. If it is 13.125 tpi as I suspect, the travel should be 0.762. The difference is not huge, but it should be clear which one you get. If you have a 2 inch travel indicator, you can use 20 turns perhaps.

To me, there is something inconsistent between images # 2 and #3. According to image 2, B1 is 8tpi. With the bottom inch configuration in image 3, B1 is 7 1/2 tpi.

The advice of looking at the gears setup is perfectly accurate. I think that the setup you have is the one in the bottom inch configuration corresponding to 7 1/2 tpi for B1. If I am correct, it would mean that B8 would give you 13 1/8 tpi.

If you can confirm that, it means that now, you can predict the other resulting pitches. That's a good thing. Evidently, the chart in image 2 corresponds to a gear setup that is different than the one you use and it can be figured out also.

Hope this helps.

Jacques Not to put too fine a point on it, but the way that you "confirm" the gear set-up is to first have a picture/diagram of what the correct set-up should be. For that you normally need the manual for that machine.

Your machine would certainly have a "normal" gear train for use with the thread table you show. You need to know what that gear train should be. GET THE MANUAL.

As for getting the correct gears, that can be done several ways. If they are no longer available, you could measure the gears that you have to determine the DP and the bore diameter and keyway (if any), and the thickness. With those factors you could search places like E-bay for suitable substitutes. A gear shop (or you) could make them, but that can be expensive.

It seems that you purchased this lathe second hand. You could try contacting the seller and asking about any missing gears. And the manual. Yea, yea, I know. But it is worth a shot.