I'm sure this has been discussed here many times, but today, I learned the hard way.
My L has just over 100 hours on it now.
I ran it for about 3 hours this morning, then put my daughter on it for about another 3 hours. When she finished the job, she loaded it on the trailer.
I took it to the next job and when I unloaded it off the trailer, the left front wheel was about to fall off!!!. There were only 3 studs still in the hub holding the wheel in place, but just barely. I was able to tighten those 3 up enough to get it back on the trailer. I drove to the Kubota dealer about 4 miles away, and after about $50 in parts and $150 in labor (15 minutes of labor) I was able to go finish my day.
The mechanic was able to get 4 of the lugs tight enough. The dealer only had 2 studs in stock, so we had to use some of the old ones.
The rim is ruined now too.
So, I just ordered a new rim and 4 more studs and lug nuts for just over $200. By the time I get this all repaired, it will cost me well over $500 for not checking the dang lug nuts......UGH........
Yep. Dozens of threads about this.
Check upon delivery. Check at about 20 or 25 hours.. Check at 50 hours. Check at 100 or 125 hours. After that you can check each 100 hours. or typical oil change time. They usually are tight after that, but it still doesn't hurt to check. Also check all of the loader mounting bolts and any subframe bolts on the same schedule. It doesn't matter how tight the dealer got them upon delivery. (and they are often not tight at delivery). They still need checking 25 hours later. Part of the deal. The paint has to get smashed out and the bolts also stretch a bit. Sorry you had to learn this the hard way. If you had just asked me I would have told you.
This is one of the benefits of being an "old timer" on this board. I see the same things discussed over and over and over. and over. This is why some of us "old timers" look so smart, and have answers. We are neither smart nor clever. We have just heard this story so many times we can repeat it in our sleep.
I can also talk to not greasing your loader pins, not keeping your battery terminals and connections tight and greased, what happens when you travel with a loaded bucket above your hood on rough ground etc. I would like to think I have heard it all. It's not true, because every once in a while someone comes on here with a story I haven't heard. But you not that someone. Again sorry, for your hard lesson, and I hope I didn't come across as uncaring, because I am not. Hopefully your post will be seen by others.
I check mine every time I do an oil change. I've never found a loose lug nut. Five years ago I put blue thread locker on all the wheel lug nuts. Just additional help to keep them where they are supposed to be.
James makes an excellent point. I think a lot of folks get lulled into a false sense of security regarding a new tractor. They assume the routine maintenance on a tractor should be the same as on their new car or pickup. Take you new pickup and do the same with it as you do with your tractor and you better be for checking "things" a lot more closely.
I check mine every time I do an oil change. I've never found a loose lug nut. Five years ago I put blue thread locker on all the wheel lug nuts. Just additional help to keep them where they are supposed to be.
I've often wondered why people don't just put loctite on the bolts since it reduces (but doesn't eliminate) the chances of this happening. Are there any reasons NOT to do it? It would seem that putting on the loctite and torquing the bolts you should be good.
What do people do who have wheel spacers....do they pull the tire off to check the torque on the bolts holding the spacer to the axle? I am planning to install spacers on my rear wheels and it has loaded tires so not something I want to be doing every 50 hours. I was going to go loctite red and put them nice and tight. Loctite red can be removed by heating the bolt to just over 400 degrees anyway.
Just to be clear. The lug nuts don't need to be checked every 50 hours on an OLD tractor. The problem is with NEW tractors. The problem stems from the fact there is paint under the lug nuts when new and the fact that all bolts/studs stretch a bit when new. It still doesn't hurt to check lug nut tightness every 100 hours, or when you change engine oil. Tractors lug nuts/studs and loader mounting bolts take a beating. It is still a good idea to check them periodically. But when NEW, they must be checked often and repeatedly.
On a Kioti on the loader the little bolts that hold the grease zerk caps on, need to be check often too. I often still find loose ones. It only takes a few seconds to put a socket on them while greasing. I have never lost one, but I have been able to turn them with my fingers several times.
Bottom line is that tractors require routine maintenance. And NEW tractors require a lot more of it. Something is always falling off of a new tractor. How many threads are there on this forum of people finding bolts, nuts etc falling off of their new tractor or mowing machine? Plenty!
My tractor is at a farm where I only get to see her every couple of weeks. Last time I was there, there was a terrible metal-on-metal coming from the right rear wheel. It was running fine the last time it was stopped. No sign of losing any fluids either. I am hoping something has let loose in the brake drum and NOT a seal. Anyway, I am going to have to remove the wheel and possibly the axle to get to the bearings. So....
1. Any suggestions on what this sound could be?
2. What size are the lug nuts on the tractor wheel?
3. What size nut is that "big fella" that holds on the axle? My sockets go up to 1", but I sure don't want to get 200 miles away and find out I don't have the right tool(s).
TIA
Tex 8N
Tex..... ..Understand what you mean about not wanting to discover you don't have the right wrenches 200 miles from Nowhere, Tex. (grin)
8N rear tire lugnuts p/n 8N 5/8 X 18 X 1 1/6 Hex. 8N rear axle nut w/snap ring p/n 8N 1 1/4 X 18 X 1 1/2? Hex
8N rear axle nut, 2 part clamping, 1 1/4 X 18 X 1 7/8 Hex
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The "big fella" it torqued to 450 ft/lbs, loosen it first before you jack up the tractor to take the wheel off. Do not block with cinderblocks, the're not not made for it. 3/4" drive 48" cheater bar highly recommended. ..... ....Dell
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Depends on if original or not. If original, they're 1 1/16" like the others said. If not, who knows.
Would be a good idea to get a cheap set of 3/4" drive sockets that come with the ratchet, breaker bar etc. I think a set runs about 40 bucks now. I don't like cheap tools but when you don't use 'em a lot what's the point of buying expensive tools(unless you got plenty of cash). If you get to use it once before it breaks you got your money's worth. I've had mine 15 - 20 years now and haven't broke one yet.
ONE MORE THING - GET the 6 point sockets not the 12 point.
tex... bring a 2inch socket, and a pipe extender for the "big fella". It's suposed to be torqued to 400 plus pound feet. Check the drum for screws into the hub, between the lug studs. Don't need to touch the axel nut to work on the brakes. The axel nut must be tight to hold the hub onto the spline without movement. Rock the rear wheel side to side to check for hub wobble. GET THE SHOP MANUAL!!!