The best way to fertilize will depend on what it is that you're planning to fertilize and what is in the fertilizer.
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So to answer the question, 'What is the best way to fertilize?', we really have to address two things:
1. What's in the fertilizer?
2. What is it that we're planning to fertilize?
Starting with 'What's in the fertilizer?', it's important to note that any bag of fertilizer that we look at has 3 numbers on it. And those three numbers represent Nitrogren, Phosphorus, and Potassium in that order. It's always in that order. Those 3.
Nitrogen is responsible mainly for the greening and the overall shoot growth of the plant, whether that's turf or ornamental plants.
Phosphorus is responsible for the establishment of the plants, whether that be new seed or new sod. In landscape ornamentals, it's also responsible for blooming.
Potassium is important for the overall cell strength of the plant.
So turfgrass fertilizers, as a general rule, are in a rough ratio of about a 3:1:2. So meaning there's about 3 times as much Nitrogen as Phosphorus, and about 2 times as much Potassium as Phosphorus.
Now, it's always important to start with a soil test to really know what your turfgrass needs, but again this would be a very common ratio and it's really important to note that it's about the ratio and not necessarily the actual numbers on the bag.
For example, you might see a fertilizer that's a 24-3-12. You might see one that's a 24-5-11. But roughly speaking, those are about in that 3:1:2 ratio. A very common fertilizer for turf.
If we were starting a new lawn though or starting sod, again that Phosphorus, that middle number becomes really important. Those seedlings can't reach the available Phosphorus in the soil.
So that's where you might see something like a 6-20-10. And again, maybe it's more 6-20-20. It's not so much about the exact numbers, but just recognizing that when you see this center number being very high in comparison to the other two, that is mostly likely meant for starting a new lawn or new sod.
Landscape ornamentals on the other hand typically are more balanced. So their ratio would be often times a 1:1:1. Equal parts Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. So again, very common to see products like a triple 15 (15-15-15), a triple 9 (9-9-9). And so while those numbers might be slightly different, the ratio is the same. That fertilizer contains equal parts of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium.
And so that's where, and we'll talk in more detail later, we gotta know not just what these numbers are, but what's the makeup of each of those. What type of Nitrogen for example? Or do these contain other things like Iron or Manganese or other nutrients in addition to these three that the plants might need.
Sometimes a fertilizer ratio is specified on soil test reports or in fertilizer recommendation sheets. The fertilizer ratio indicates the proportion of nitrogen, phosphate, and potash in the fertilizer product, and is determined by dividing each of the three numbers in the fertilizer grade (listed on the container) by the lowest number in the grade. For example, when each number in a fertilizer grade of 18-6-6 is divided by 6 (the lowest number in the grade), the proportion is determined as: three parts nitrogen to one part phosphate, to one part potash. Thus, the fertilizer has a 3-1-1 ratio.
If your soil test report recommends applying 1.5 lb of nitrogen, 0.5 lb of phosphate, and 0.5 lb of potash per sq ft, you should apply a fertilizer with a ratio of 3-1-1 since you need three times as much nitrogen as phosphate and three times as much nitrogen as potash. The simplest method of determining a ratio is to divide the weights of nitrogen, phosphate, and potash listed on the soil test report by the lowest weight of the three.
To determine a fertilizer ratio for a soil test recommendation of 1.5 lb of nitrogen, 0.5 lb of phosphate, and 0.5 lb of potash, divide the weight of each of the three nutrients (1.5 lb, 0.5 lb, 0.5 lb) listed on the report by the lowest nutrient weight (0.5 lb in this case).
1.5 ÷ 0.5 = 3
0.5 ÷ 0.5 = 1
0.5 ÷ 0.5 = 1
Thus, the fertilizer ratio that best fits this recommendation is 3-1-1. As demonstrated in the first paragraph, you can match the fertilizer ratio for this recommendation with a fertilizer grade by dividing each number in the fertilizer grade by the lowest number in the grade.
Determine ratios for the following fertilizer grades: 21-7-7, 22-6-8, and 18-5-9. Grade = 21-7-7Grade = 22-6-8Grade = 18-5-9 21 ÷ 7 = 3 22 ÷ 6 = 3.7 18 ÷ 5 = 3.6 7 ÷ 7 = 1 6 ÷ 6 = 1.0 5 ÷ 5 = 1.0 7 ÷ 7 = 1 8 ÷ 6 = 1.3 9 ÷ 5 = 1.8 Ratio = 3-1-1 Ratio = 3.7-1-1.3 Ratio = 3.6-1-1.8
As you can see from these three examples, fertilizer grades for certain products do not always match the exact fertilizer ratio you are searching for. Thus, the goal is to find a product with a grade that is as close as possible to the specified ratio.
Learn the basics of fertilizers, and you'll help your garden grow as never before!
Fertilizer sections at nurseries, garden centers, and supply stores dazzle the gardener. The shelves are piled with boxes and bottles, the floors covered with bags stacked high. Labels identify the package contents as organic compost, rose food or vegetable food, lawn fertilizer or general-purpose fertilizer. In some stores, you'll find bins filled with bone meal, blood meal, or hoof-and-horn meal'all labeled natural fertilizer. Choosing the right products to keep your plants healthy can often be a bit confusing.
Regardless of its type, any fertilizer you buy will come with information about the nutrients it contains, so you want to understand the N-P-K-ratio.
Prominently featured, the N-P-K-ratio is the percentage the product contains by volume of nitrogen (chemical symbol N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). A 16-16-16 fertilizer, for example, contains 16% nitrogen, 16% phosphorus, and 16% potassium. A 25-4-2 formulation contains 25% nitrogen, 4% phosphorus, and 2% potassium.
All fertilizers contain at least one of these components; if any is missing, the ratio will show a zero for that nutrient. (A 12-0-0 fertilizer contains nitrogen but no phosphorus or potassium, for instance).
Boxed, bagged, and bottled products display the N-P-K ratio on the label. For fertilizers sold in bulk from self-serve bins, the ratio is noted on the bin. One tip: Be sure to write the information on the bags you fill before you bring them home.
A fertilizer containing all three major nutrients is called a complete fertilizer; a product that supplies only one or two of them is an incomplete fertilizer.
Using a complete fertilizer for every garden purpose seems sensible, but, in fact, it isn't always the best choice. If the soil contains sufficient phosphorus and potassium and is deficient only in nitrogen (as is often the case), you can save money by using an incomplete fertilizer that provides nitrogen alone (ammonium sulfate, for example). In some instances, complete fertilizers can even harm a plant. Exotic, bright-blossomed proteas, for example, will not tolerate excess phosphorus: they 'glut' themselves on it and then die.
The inexpensive soil test kits sold at garden centers can give you a rough idea of the nutrients available in various parts of your garden. For a more detailed evaluation, you may want to pay for professional analysis, and there are mail-in versions of soil test kits, too. By revealing which nutrients may be lacking, testing can help you choose an appropriate fertilizer.
The various products labeled 'general-purpose fertilizers' contain either equal amounts of each major nutrient (N-P-K ratio 12-12-12, for example) or a slightly higher percentage of nitrogen than of phosphorus and potassium (such as a 12-8-6 product). Such fertilizers are intended to meet most plants' general requirements throughout the growing season.
Special-purpose fertilizers, on the other hand, are formulated for specific needs. They're aimed at the gardener who wants a particular combination of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium for certain plants or garden situations. These fertilizers are of three general types.
One type, used during the period of active growth, contains largely nitrogen. Such products, with N-P-K ratios such as 16-6-4, are often used in spring, when you want to encourage lush growth or green up your lawn.
Another type is meant to stimulate root growth, stem vigor, and flower and fruit production. Fertilizers of this sort contain little nitrogen and higher levels of phosphorus and potassium; the N-P-K ratio may be 3-20-20, for example. These products are applied at different times and in different ways, depending on what you want to achieve. When you prepare a new planting area, for instance, you'll work a dry granular fertilizer of this sort deeply into the soil, putting the phosphorus and potassium where roots can absorb them. The nutrients help strengthen the new plants' developing stems and encourage the growth of a dense network of roots.
To promote flower production and increase the yields of fruit or vegetable crops, you apply the same sort of fertilizer to established plants after they've completed their first flush of growth. You can use either dry granules, scratching them lightly into the soil, or apply a liquid formula with a watering can or a hose-end applicator.
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A third group of fertilizers is designed for use on specific plants. These feature the N-P-K ratios determined to elicit the best performance from the particular plant, as well as other elements proven valuable to that plant. Such fertilizers are named according to the plant they're intended to nourish. Especially useful are formulas for citrus trees and acid-loving plants such as camellia and rhododendron.
Recently, other such plant-specific fertilizers have appeared on nursery shelves, each claiming to be the best choice for a certain plant or group of plants; you may see several sorts of 'tomato food' or 'flower fertilizer,' for example. The jury is still out on the benefit of many of these products, and you will often do just as well to use a general-purpose type. The main distinction is often the price: the 'special' formulas are usually costlier than general-purpose kinds.
Organic fertilizers are derived from the remains of living organisms; blood meal, bone meal, cottonseed meal, and fish emulsion are just a few of the many available types. Organic fertilizers release their nutrients slowly: rather than dissolving in water, they're broken down by bacteria in the soil, providing nutrients as they decompose.
One of the many benefits of organics is they improve the 'structure' of the soil the microorganisms that convert nutrients so plants can access them. Micronutrients are also often present, but they are not in synthetics.
Because these fertilizers act slowly, it's almost impossible to 'burn' or kill lawns or plants by applying too much (overdosing with synthetics, in contrast, can have potentially fatal results). Some manufacturers combine a variety of organic products in one package, then offer them for general-purpose or specialized use. Finally, they aren't as water-soluble as synthetics, which means they won't leach into waterways.
Two commonly used soil amendments'compost and manure'have some nutritive value and can be used as part of an organic fertilizing program. The N-P-K ratio of compost varies from 1.5-.5-1 to 3.5-1-2. Chicken manure's N-P-K ratio ranges from 3-2.5-1.5 to 6-4-3; that of steer manure is usually a little less than 1-1-1.
Fertilizers containing seaweed are gaining favor with many gardeners. Besides providing nutrients in a form immediately available to plants, seaweed contains mannitol, a compound that enhances absorption of nutrients already in the soil, and various hormones that stimulate plant growth. And the carbohydrates in seaweed break down rapidly, nourishing soil-dwelling bacteria that fix nitrogen and make it available to plant roots.
Mixed with water and sprayed directly on foliage, seaweed-containing fertilizers can have dramatic effects in a matter of days. Plants green up and begin to produce new growth, and those that are weak stemmed and straggly straighten up and become stronger.
These products are derived from the chemical sources listed on the product label. They're faster acting than organic kinds and provide nutrients to plants quickly, making them a good choice for aiding plants in severe distress from nutrient deficiencies, but they are more likely to 'burn' the plant.
Synthetic fertilizers are sold both as dry granules to be applied to the soil and as dry or liquid concentrates to be diluted in water before application. In dry form, they're usually less expensive than their organic counterparts. In some of the dry granular types (those known as controlled-release fertilizers), the fertilizer granules are coated with a permeable substance; with each watering, a bit of fertilizer diffuses through the coating and into the soil. Depending on the particular product, the nutrient release may last anywhere from 3 to 8 months.
Rachel Weill
Some synthetic products are packaged for special purposes; you'll find spikes and tabs for container plants, for example.
Note that synthetic fertilizers usually do not contain any of the secondary or micronutrients mentioned above'but in most cases, these nutrients are already present in the soil. If a test indicates that some are missing, look for a fertilizer that provides them.
Understanding NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potash (Potassium)) ratings on lawn and plant fertilizers is an important part of deciding whether or not fertilizers are appropriate or even necessary for your garden and landscaping.
This article is a basic guide to understanding what NPK numbers mean with fertilizers, and what levels of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potash are really appropriate for your lawn, and garden plants.
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In most cases, important gardening practices such as aerating and composting are much better for your garden than using chemical fertilizers. Also note that higher NPK levels don't necessarily mean healthier plants.
Chemical fertilizers and organic fertilizers show their nutrient content with three bold numbers on the package. These numbers represent three different compounds: Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potash (Potassium), which we can also describe with the letters N-P-K.
The three numbers listed on fertilizer labels correspond to the percentage of these materials found in the fertilizer. What does each nutrient do? In addition to other properties, Nitrogen helps plant foliage to grow strong. Phosphorous helps roots and flowers grow and develop. Potassium (Potash) is important for overall plant health.
Be aware that high nitrogen fertilizers will make for quick growth but weaker plants that are more susceptible to attacks by diseases and pests. Fast, showy growth is not necessarily the best thing for your plants.
German scientist Justus Von Liebig was responsible for the theory that Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium levels are the basis for determining healthy plant growth. However, this theory, which dates to the s, doesn't take into account the dozens of other nutrients and elements that are essential to plant growth such as sulfur, hydrogen, oxygen, carbon, magnesium, etc. Nor does the theory talk about the importance of beneficial soil organisms that help your plants to flourish and to fight off pests and diseases.
While Von Liebig's work was unquestionably important to the science of plant growth and agriculture, other ways of looking at how plants utilize nutrients have largely been ignored, especially by those companies who produce the chemical fertilizers commonly on the market today.
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For example, if you properly aerate the soil, earthworms, beneficial microbes, and other critters found underneath your garden and lawn will have better access to the oxygen they need to thrive. As they live and digest organic matter, they help to create soil that is healthy and fertile. Healthy soil is the basis for healthy plants.
Additionally, if we look at nature, compost in the form of organic humus is ever present in natural plant communities, providing lots of the nutrients that plants need to grow and thrive. Compost contains Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium, and a great abundance of other trace elements that will benefit your plants.
It is clear that Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium are not necessarily the most important elements you need for your plants to grow well. In fact, elements such as carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, sulfur, magnesium, copper, cobalt, sodium, boron, molybdenum, and zinc are just as important to plant development as N-P-K. (Source: https://www.utpress.utexas.edu/books/garhow.html)
Over the years, Justus Von Liebig's theory developed into the dominant paradigm for how we grow our ornamental and edible plants. The bad news is that this has lead to a vast amount excess nutrients building up in our streams, lakes, and rivers, because chemical fertilizers are often over-applied.
Surprisingly, much of this overuse of chemical fertilizers is actually from homeowners, and not from farmers, who typically carefully measure and apply the least amount of fertilizer necessary to get the job done in order to grow their crops in the most cost effective way possible.
Many homeowners who aren't growing to make a profit end up inadvertently overusing chemical fertilizers (and pesticides too!). They think that if a little bit is good, then more must be better. It isn't!
According to the National Academy of Sciences, even though farmers uses pesticides more widely, homeowners uses 10 times more fertilizer per acre. If you only take away one thing from this article, please let it be that you should only use the proper amount of any fertilizer, and not anything more. This will save you money, and it will also keep your yard and garden healthier at the same time.
This is extremely important with chemicals, but it also applies to organics! Organic gardeners can look to the work of Sir Albert Howard for solid research and ideas on how to grow plants more naturally. His ideas consider chemical processes that occur in nature. He then applies them to agriculture and home gardening.
When looking at both organic and chemical fertilizer labels, you'll notice that the NPK numbers don't add up to 100 percent. So, what is the rest of your fertilizer made up of? That depends on the fertilizer.
Chemical fertilizers can have any number of additional ingredients including dirt, sand, and even materials that are potentially hazardous to your health and to the environment. These fillers for chemical fertilizers are required so that the nutrients aren't so concentrated that they will damage or 'burn' your plants, your skin, and anything else they touch.
Organic fertilizers don't necessarily contain fillers, as they are made up of a variety of natural components that in one way or another will benefit your plants. Another thing to be aware of with chemical fertilizers is the kind of nutrients they contain and the way these nutrients are extracted. For example, the kind of nitrogen typically found in chemical fertilizers dissolves very quickly in water. This means that excess nitrogen may find its way into groundwater and freshwater sources and contaminate the water.
Additionally, many chemical fertilizers are now using phosphoric acid to create a high phosphorous content quickly and cheaply. According to Garrett, this kind of phosphorous essentially neutralizes other important trace minerals from the soil that your plants need.
Also, be aware that the potassium found in many chemical fertilizers is a harsh form of potassium that can be potentially harmful to your plants if applied improperly. Although organic and natural fertilizers usually have a lower NPK number, they are soil amendments that work slowly over time to improve your soil and to help you plants grow strong. They avoid the fast growth and flowering provided by chemical fertilizers that can actually weaken plants. Therefore, big NPK numbers don't necessarily mean a better fertilizer.
You might not need much fertilizer at all in your yard or garden. Here's why. Many professional gardeners say that little to no additional potassium and phosphorus are needed in our soils as these elements are present already.
However, we need to liberate these elements with proper soil aeration, soil drainage, beneficial soil organisms, etc. For the average homeowner, this means that organic fertilizers with NPK labels that show low numbers or even zero for potassium and phosphorus are perfectly adequate for your garden as long as you're properly caring for your soil.
The thing about fertilizers is that without proper soil aeration, mineral nutrients, and other factors, your plants may not be able to absorb phosphorous and potassium anyway, so loading up your soil with high levels of phosphorous and potassium may not make much difference with the health of your plants.
Nitrogen is typically available to the soil without additional fertilizers. The trick is having healthy soil full of beneficial microorganisms that can make use of the nitrogen that is available in the air. Compost can help, and so can soil additives such as Mycor root builder.
Also, companion planting with plants like beans that fix nitrogen will make for happy and healthy soil. Organic composts and composted manure are excellent sources of all nutrients plants need to grow, including NPK. Professional gardeners who use chemicals and organic gardeners agree that using compost is one of the best things you can do to feed your plants are feed them the nutrients they need. Other excellent sources of these nutrients are fish meal, bone meal, alfalfa meal, bat guano and earthworm castings.
Selecting And Using Organic Fertilizers.
The Scoop on Chemical and Organic Fertilizers
Guidelines for Organic Fertilization
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Fertilizer terms can be confusing. What is the N-P-K? What are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium? Let us take the guesswork out of fertilizing. We'll explain the N-P-K ratio and what those numbers on fertilizers mean.
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It's all about the soil. Most soil doesn't have all the nutrients needed for optimal growth, which means you won't get the harvest or flower bloom desired.
There are six primary macronutrients that plants require'carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. The latter three nutrients come from the soil.
Every fertilizer label will give information relating to its 'N-P-K' content, which is the amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (standardized in that order) in the particular fertilizer blend. This is expressed as a series of three numbers that give the percentage (also called 'ratio' in this sense of the word) of each nutrient by weight. On the label, you'll see numbers like 5-10-10, 10-10-10, and 10-6-4. For example, a 100-pound bag of 10-10-10 contains ten pounds each of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. The rest is filler, which gives it bulk and makes it easier to spread.
Nitrogen (N) is needed for leaf growth and is responsible for making plants greener. Plants that are almost all leaves need a lot of nitrogen, so look for a fertilizer with a high first number. The higher the number, the more nitrogen the fertilizer provides. This is why most lawn fertilizers are high in nitrogen, with formulations like 24-4-12 or 20-2-6.
Phosphorus (P) promotes root development, which helps to anchor and strengthen plants. It also increases bloom and fruit production. Tomatoes and root crops favor 'snacks' of 5-10-10.
Potassium (K), also known as potash, helps the plant fight off diseases and keeps it vigorous, enabling it to withstand extreme temperatures and ward off disease. Plants deficient in potash may display stunted leaves and fruit and be extra sensitive to drought. Because most soils already contain potassium, the third number in the fertilizer formulation tends to be the smallest.
When it comes to fertilizers, much attention is paid to nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, but there are other key nutrients needed for overall plant health as well, though in smaller quantities.
Secondary macronutrients are:
Calcium (Ca), which improves general plant vigor and promotes the growth of young roots and shoots.
Magnesium (Mg), which regulates the uptake of nutrients, aids seed formation, and contributes to the dark green color of leaves, which is important for effective photosynthesis.
Sulfur (S), which maintains that dark green color, encouraging vigorous plant growth.
There are also micronutrients, or trace minerals, that are needed in much smaller amounts for plant health. These include boron, chlorine, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, nickel, and zinc.
Soil test results sometimes come with recommendations to add these other minerals to the soil if they are found to be deficient.
Read more about organic soil amendments.
How do you know what your soil needs? Knowing your plants' growing medium is key to knowing what kind of fertilizer(s) will benefit them. You want to add what they lack, not what they do not need.
The very first step in almost any gardening endeavor should be a soil test. For accurate and useful results, go through the folks at your County Extension Office. They will test the soil, explain the results, and provide recommendations for actions to take. Read more about soil testing for a healthier garden.
Because soil continually changes, you should have your soil tested every 2 to 3 years. Keeping records of test results, fertilizer applications, and any other soil amendments you make is always a good idea.
Fertilizer providing the N-P-K nutrients mentioned above can come in both organic and synthetic versions. What's the difference?
Organic fertilizers come from sources such as manure, blood meal, cottonseed meal, feather meal, crab meal, etc. (Bear in mind: Not all products labeled 'natural' are organic. Greensand'derived from inorganic mineral-based or 'rock' matter'is an example of a natural, although inorganic, material.) Organic fertilizers work in concert with soil microbes that break fertilizers down for plant uptake. Because they don't add excess salts and acid to the soil, organic fertilizers are beneficial in encouraging healthy soil biology rich in microbial activity.
Synthetic fertilizers are lab-made and derived from compounds like ammonium nitrate, ammonium phosphate, superphosphate, and potassium sulfate. They expedite plant growth and can contribute to bloom rate in flowering plants. However, they are high in salts and can be detrimental to populations of beneficial microorganisms and also leach into water sources. Applying too much synthetic fertilizer can 'burn' foliage and damage your plants. Synthetic fertilizers are great for a boost, but do little to improve your soil's long-term health, texture, or long-term fertility. Because synthetic fertilizers are highly water-soluble, they can also leach out into streams and ponds.
In general, organic fertilizers need time to enrich the soil, so they're best applied in the fall so the nutrients will be available in the spring. For the spring, some fertilizers combine the best of both worlds with an organically-based fertilizer mix that also contains small amounts of synthetic fertilizers to ensure the immediate availability of nutrients.
Note that the N-P-K ratio of organic fertilizers is typically lower than that of a synthetic fertilizer. By law, the ratio label can only list nutrients that are immediately available.
You may also notice that there are both granular and soluble formulations.
Granular fertilizers are solids that must be worked into the soil and given time (and water) before they dissolve and become available to plants.
Slow-release fertilizers are a subset of granular formulations. A portion of the fertilizer is not immediately available to the plant. Nutrients are metered out over several weeks. Therefore, they are applied less frequently.
Sometimes called 'liquid feed,' soluble fertilizers are sold as either ready-to-use solutions or packaged dry-milled materials that need to be dissolved in water. These tend to be quick-release fertilizers high in nitrogen that result in fast green growth. (Miracle-Gro is a good example of a soluble fertilizer.)
To build the long-term health and fertility of your soil, we recommend using granular organic fertilizers. Supplementing with an additional water-soluble fertilizer is a way to ensure that your plants have the nutrients they need when they need a boost (during active growth).
Shopping for fertilizer can be confusing because plants have individual nutrient requirements.
If you don't have any specific soil needs, a 5-5-5 fertilizer is an all-purpose fertilizer that provides plants with what they need for healthy growth.
Evergreens ' holly, rhododendron, yew, and others ' not only need high nitrogen to keep them green, but several trace elements as well. Evergreen food may have an analysis of 30-10-10, plus a dose of copper, molybdenum, and iron.
Flowering annuals, on the other hand, burst into bloom when nitrogen is held back. The tonic they need is 5-10-10.
Good-quality bonemeal worked into the soil around newly planted bulbs keeps them springing up for several years.
Before buying bags or bottles of fertilizers, consider how you might add nutrients to the soil by improving its biology. Try compost tea, a liquid produced by extracting beneficial microbes (bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and nematodes) from compost.
Applying compost tea to both soil and plant foliage adds those beneficial microorganisms to the growing medium, which boosts plant health and encourages growth. Compost tea is made using a brewing process similar to that used for making beer. Active compost, a brewing kit, and a little information can go a long way toward turning your landscape into a thriving ecosystem. See information on how to make compost tea.
Now that you understand more about fertilizers, see how to apply fertilizer to your garden!
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