The amount of movement to be taken up by the piping and any device incorporated in it can be reduced by 'cold draw'. The total amount of expansion is first calculated for each section between fixed anchor points. The pipes are left short by half of this amount, and stretched cold by pulling up bolts at a flanged joint, so that at ambient temperature, the system is stressed in one direction.
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When warmed through half of the total temperature rise, the piping is unstressed. At working temperature and having fully expanded, the piping is stressed in the opposite direction. The effect is that instead of being stressed from 0 F to +1 F units of force, the piping is stressed from -½ F to + ½ F units of force.
In practical terms, the pipework is assembled cold with a spacer piece, of length equal to half the expansion, between two flanges. When the pipework is fully installed and anchored at both ends, the spacer is removed and the joint pulled up tight (see Figure 10.4.3).
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I've done miles of air lines at many different facilities. The 2 main lines we install is copper with propress fittings and the ingersoll rand blue aluminum setup. Both are great for the use.
Besides both being corrosion resistant here are the pros and cons.
Ingersoll rand
- must buy from them or a competitor style.
- the pipe is reasonable, but the fittings can be a little crazy in price
- plastic male adapters suck as they are plastic thread. If you get females and treat them like sch 40 pvc, they are fine.
- the fittings are not the easiest to put together. You must mark them for proper fit up. I have fixed hundreds of these fittings where other companies have done it wrong.
- the fitting are in theory, infinity reusable
- the fittings are all unions so it makes it very easy to make changes later on.
Copper
- only buy L copper
- copper is either pressed or soldered fittings, so each fitting is permenant
- very common anywhere
- fast install
- press fittings are very strong, I had a 90* fitting unbend to a 45* and it still held with no leaks
- cheapest mist efficient limes for dirty water to lay in
I can tell you that no dryer will ever get all the water out. It is 100% impossible. They can get a reliable 95+% constantly though. The way to get the other 5% out is to design your runs properly. Don't have them drain back to a tank. Run your main horizontal manifold so all your branches cone off from the top. Make sure they go up at least 12". Make the horizontal run download to there far end. Put only 1 down pipe that connects directly down from the horizontal so any and all water will drain into this pipe. Then put an automatic drain or a manual drain that you will bleed every day. This works perfectly. This gets whatever humidy that condensate inside the pipe out and keeps your air dry. Do multiple drops down if you have a long run.
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