I noticed some PVC fittings have the area of the hub wider, like the picture below. Charlotte's and Mueller's are like that.
Then there are some that has a uniform outside diameter, and you do not see the hub, like this.
At first, I thought the water supply fittings with smaller diameters for sprinkler lines are like this, but for DWV it's always the first type.
Lately I have seen a few elbows in my old drains that are like the second picture. I have a 4" 1/4 bend for drains that is like this.
Do these fittings that you can't see the hub, are they thicker on the inside? They must be right?
Do they have a name you refer to them by? Or is this just how different manufacturers make them?
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Author: hj (AZ)The only way DWV fittings could be made with a "smooth" exterior would be if the body was extra thick so that the inside made a smooth transition with the pipe. Few manufacturers would use the extra material to do that, which is why DWV fittings look like the upper photo. The ones you refer to could be long radiua "pressure" fittings. They should have a stamp on them to indicate if they are DWV.
Author: sum (FL) I am not sure of the size of that fitting in the picture above, just a generic one I found.
The reason I am curious, is that I have noticed the smaller diameter ones are made smooth like this, and the larger ones not. In fact, at the local Home Depot, they have both in 1.5" and 2". When I first started my DIY projects, I asked the plumber at HD, what's the difference? He said, "same, that smooth one is better". Of course later on it dawned on me the drains the inside diameters must match for uninterrupted flow, hence the protruded hub. For pressurized pipe like sprinklers, the inside diameter of the spigot does not have to match the inside diameter of the fitting, so they could make it smooth.
Now last week as I worked on my roof drain (details in another thread), I noticed the 4" drain elbow that's been there since is smooth like that.
That's what got me curious. Did they use the wrong fitting intended for pressure applications here? Because the hub had to be thinner and the "body" thicker.
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I can't change it. If I cut it out and replace it with a DWV elbow the pipe may be too short, or I may have to chip into concrete that is on top of the pipe now.
Fortunately this is just rain water so I am not going to worry about it. Besides I felt with my hand the lip is really small, less than 1/8".
I guess I could pour down 1/8" of some self leveling liquid epoxy to the bottom of the elbow so it is completely flushed with the horizontal pipe. Nah...
Yes but the problem is if I cut off this elbow, the pipe connected to it is wedged under the concrete slab and I wouldn't be able to put a new longer fitting in without excavating more. Since this is just a downspout I am not going to worry about it.
It does have a lip inside the socket.
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Author: sum (FL) By the way there is an anxillary problem.
On the right side of the slab cut, there is a piece of slab that cracked off the slab but was held together by a thick metal wire. I tried to get it out with a electric hammer and slipped. The blade hit something.
I didn't know I have more PVC pipes to the right until now. I dug down a bit more and found four 1.5" PVC pipes crossing there. Those are pipes to direct pool water under the slab to the other end of the house where the pump and filter are.
The blade nicked one of the pipes pretty bad. Probably a dent may be 1/8" deep.
These pipes are pressurized. I am thinking it is probably OK? Is there a way to reinforce it before I pour concrete back? It is so tight and close to the slab there is no way I can make a proper fix. But I am thinking if I take a 1.5" repair coupling, slice it in half longitudinally. Put some primer and glue on the dent and half coupling, then glue them together would that strengthen the dented area?
OK, I end up cutting a big half about 3/4 of the pipe, applied primer and glue to both the pipe and the coupling, pushed it on, surprisingly it went on with almost no resistance. I thought I might have to struggle to make it fit over the pipe. It's all good now.
I think the fix is necessary as I found out these pool water pipes are not SCH 40 but the thinner ones they use for sprinklers.
THE DOGLEGS HAVE FINALLY ARRIVED!
So I am starting to work on the downspout on the other side of the courtyard. Problem is, I have to connect a 3" 45 degree elbow to a 90 degree elbow, and using a short piece of pipe in between so that the hubs of the two fittings touch each other, I am 1/4" too long. If I use a street elbow on one end then I am way too short.
Is it OK to shave 1/8" off the hub of each elbow to make up for that 1/4"? I could probably finnesse it to work by having a bit of a kink at the Fernco coupling or have the vertical section of the downspout not perfectly vertical but I'd rather not. I can't think of any negative to shave 1/8" off the socket that's 1-1/2" deep, right?
DONE. It's interesting that the other side is a DWV fitting with the protruding hub, but it's gray PVC. So I end up using a 4x3 bushing and a short piece of pipe to connect to the 3" dogleg, then the CO.
I don't much enjoy glueing PVC on a ladder. I don't know where is the best spot to put the primer seems like it's always a spilling disaster.
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