While finding a good paintbrush is likely one of the first things that springs to mind when thinking about a paint project, no painter would be without their trusty roller. They make covering a large area incredibly quick and easy, and assures a very professional looking result. If you‘re a beginner, you’re definitely going to have questions about how to choose the best roller for your job, how to use it and also how to best look after it, so read on to get yourself acquainted with this essential painting tool.
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Roller sleeves may look similar, but they are not created equal. A high-quality sleeve will help you apply the correct amount of paint at the required spread rate and give you a top-notch finish. Also, as with any equipment that you invest in, if you look after it properly, it’ll last for years.
A great starting point is to check the information on the Resene roller stand, or ask staff at your local Resene ColorShop or reseller – they can recommend the best roller for the paint you are using and the surface you are painting. Resene and PAL (Paint Aids) have worked together to match rollers to specific Resene products and areas of use. A unique numbering system and in-store guides are designed to make it easier for you to select the right roller sleeve.
For DIYers, there are three main sleeve sizes to choose from, which have been designed for key home projects.
As well as the appropriate sleeve, you’ll also need a roller handle, an extension pole, a roller tray, a cutting in brush – and of course your choice of Resene paint.
An extension pole is ideal for painting large surfaces like walls and ceilings so you’ll be able to avoid a ladder or too much stretching up and down – which you’ll likely feel in your muscles the following day! The more painting you have planned (including future projects) or the larger your current project, the better quality the extension handle you should select. A simple wooden handle will suffice for a small one-off project, however a quality extension handle will help you achieve a faster and more professional finish and last for many paint jobs.
If you already have roller sleeves and an extension pole at home, bring them in when you’re buying your paint and the Resene ColorShop staff can check they are suitable for the paint you are using and the project you have in mind.
Yes, for a few reasons. By decanting your paint into your tray, you’ll avoid contaminating all the rest of your paint with any dust, dirt or fibres from your roller sleeve. The proportions of the tray also help you load up your roller properly with paint for an even finish. Make sure the tray is clean before you begin and stir the paint well before pouring it in. Be careful not to overfill the tray, however, if you do, loading the roller is more difficult and spillages are more likely.
Rinse new rollers in water (when using waterborne paints) or turps (for solventborne paints) to remove any loose fibres or dust before use. If your roller handle has been used before, place a drop of oil on the roller handle bearings (the two plastic end caps) as it will make painting much easier.
When using waterborne paints, lightly dampen the roller sleeve before use. Make sure you remove all excess water. It should be slightly damp rather than wet to touch.
Use the ribbed section at the top of the paint tray to squeeze out the excess paint and ensure your roller gets an equal distribution of paint. Repeat this process several times to work the paint into the roller sleeve. This will make application easier and more consistent. Once loaded, the roller sleeve should look like a hotdog dipped in batter.
Before you pick up your roller, you’ll need to use a paintbrush first to cut in. This is the process of painting the fiddly bits – edges, corners, around light fittings – that a roller can’t quite manage. Start with the corner and bring the line of the paint out – you can work either left to right or vice versa, depending on what is more comfortable. Begin each brushstroke about 100mm along from the end of the previous section, slightly away from the edge itself and work the paint back towards the paint’s wet edge and then back along the edge.
Now you’re ready to roll. With the roller loaded with paint, lay it carefully against the wall or ceiling. Roll in an upwards direction first, moving across the surface in a rough ‘W’ pattern. Aim to complete one square metre with each roller load, spreading the paint as evenly as possible. Then invert the roller and run it as close to the leading edge of the skirting board and corners as practical. Once you have covered approximately four square metres, you will need to lay-off the painted area to achieve an even consistent finish.
This is the process to ensure there are no messy streaks and that your paint surface is seamless. It involves rolling over the area you painted with a very light pressure to even out the finish and redistribute any remaining wet paint on the wall.
To lay off, make sure the roller sleeve is not fully loaded with paint. Going very lightly, lay the roller approximately 300mm above the skirting board and slowly roll up towards the scotia, getting as close as practical to it. Gently roll back towards the skirting board but pull the roller away from the wall about 200mm above the skirting board. Repeat the process, overlapping strokes by approximately a quarter to half the roller length. Adjust the roller angle to get as close as practical to the edges of corners and around door and window frames. In a room, you’d do this one wall at a time. Once this is all done, allow your paint to dry and then apply a second coat using the same techniques.
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Make sure you stop painting at a natural end point in the wall like a corner – or the end of a weatherboard if you’re painting outside. If you intend to go back to painting soon, keep the roller wet by submerging the roller head in the remaining paint in your roller tray, then put a reusable plastic bag around the entire roller tray and tie the handles together or use masking tape to seal it shut. This will prevent your roller from drying out and will keep it ready for painting, saving you from unnecessarily washing your roller and tray.
Once the job is done, hold the roller by its handle on an angle and use a roller cleaner or painter’s multi tool to scrape the excess paint out of the roller sleeve and into a painting tray. Place the roller into a bucket of cold water and leave to soak for a few hours. Wash the roller under running water, pushing your fingers or the roller cleaner through the pile/nap of the roller sleeve. This process can take longer than you might think. – keep rinsing the roller until it’s completely clean. If in doubt, put it back in another bucket of clean water and leave to soak some more.
Leave the sleeve to dry by standing it vertically on its end. If it’s going to be a long time before you reuse your roller, once it’s dry, you may want to wrap your roller sleeve in cling film or a plastic bag to prevent dust or dirt getting into the fibres. It’s important to keep roller sleeves clean, because dirty paintbrushes and rollers can contaminate paints by introducing bacteria which can cause paint to go off.
So, let’s break down the must-knows for choosing the right roller, and I’ll even compare a few of my top picks from the shop to help you make the best choice for your project.
Before we get into specific recommendations, here are a few basics to help you understand what kind of roller you’ll need.
The nap, or pile, of a roller is essentially the length of its fibres. Different nap lengths are suited to different surfaces:
Axus Silk Touch 9" Roller Sleeve | Axus Decor
Not all rollers are created equal—different materials work better with different types of paint and surfaces.
Rollers come in different widths, but don’t let that intimidate you. The size you choose depends on the space you’re painting:
Now that we’ve got the basics covered, let’s take a look at a few rollers that we stock and how they compare. Each of these rollers has its own specialities, so let’s match them to the right jobs.
Roller Material Pile Type Surface Type Paint Type Best For Woven Polyester Long Pile Rough/Heavily Textured Emulsion (Water-based), Masonry Paints Large textured walls, masonry surfaces Microfibre Medium Pile Smooth/Slightly Textured Emulsion (Water-based) Interior walls, ceilings Woven Acrylic Medium Pile Smooth/Slightly Textured Emulsion (Water-based) General interior painting Microfibre Short to Medium Pile Smooth/Slightly Textured Water-based & Oil-based Versatile for walls, ceilings, and woodwork Microfibre Short Pile Smooth/Flat surfaces Water-based paints Smooth finishes on walls and ceilings Foam Foam (No Pile) Smooth/Flat surfaces Oil-based, Varnishes Detailed woodwork, doors, furniture finishesChoosing the right roller might seem like a small detail, but trust me, it makes a huge difference. Using the right tool for the job will save you time, paint, and frustration. Whether you're painting a huge ceiling, tackling some tricky trim, or freshening up some textured walls, the right roller is key to getting the job done with a professional finish.
If you’ve been asking yourself questions like, “What’s the best paint roller for walls?”, “What’s the best roller for ceilings?”, or even “What’s the best roller for smooth finishes on walls?” , then this guide hopefully cleared things up!
Got a project coming up? Check out our roller selection, and don’t hesitate to reach out if you’re unsure which one to choose. You might also find my blog on how to clean your roller helpful - be sure to check it out for my top tips! I’m always happy to help! Flick us a DM on any of our socials like Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, or even . Our friendly customer service team is also available by ( ) or .
Helen x
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