Questions You Should Know about drying area

30, Jun. 2025

 

Top 5 restorative drying questions answered - Encircle

Expert insights on restorative drying with Ken Larsen





Question #1: Tile drying strategies: is it about the tile or the mortar?

Ken: When categorizing water loss – one of the things I check is for the presence of hollow cavities between the tile and the plywood / concrete base. When they set the tile, they’re usually using a notched trowel. If the tiles aren't set firmly into the mortar, the hollow cavities remain and can trap ‌contaminated water.

Link to Ruiou

I check for both these hollow cavities and elevated moisture readings with my non-invasive moisture meters to establish the need to remove the tiles so as to clean, apply disinfectant and Post-Remediation Verification (PRV) the affected area following the mitigator’s decontamination efforts.

More tips for tackling tile drying challenges in water damage restoration:



Question #2: Drying chamber vs stabilization chamber: what's the difference?

Ken: The chamber doesn’t need to be different — but the strategies aren't even close to similar. Remember: drying is an engineered strategy with the intention of producing a responsible (not “the largest”) delta vapor pressure between the wet hygroscopic materials and the atmosphere next to the material.

Stabilization is to produce an atmosphere that represents a “normal, healthy, safe, comfortable” living condition. The American Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) says that’s between 60°F and 80°F / 30% to 55% relative humidity.

“If you aren’t keeping these two strategies distinctly different
– then you’re just an equipment delivery service without a plan. Don’t be that guy.”


Drying vs. stabilization: Impact on restoration projects

Understanding the difference between drying and stabilization can make a big difference in your projects.

  • Stabilization prevents secondary damage like mold growth, focusing on moisture removal from the air.
  • Improper stabilization can lead to costly secondary damage, including mold.
  • Drying uses air movement and dehumidification to create vapor pressure differentials, crucial for effective water damage restoration.
  • In Category 2 or 3 water losses, cleaning surfaces and materials is essential before drying.


Question #3: When insurance terms matter: using 'water damage' instead of 'visible growth' or 'mold'

Ken: The communications provided to the insurer can spoil your client’s claim if you aren't careful. Be careful with the expressions you use when communicating. An expression I've found to be useful in reply to such insurance company inquiries is:

If you want to learn more, please visit our website lost foam casting products.

“I’m sorry [name], but I’m not qualified to answer that question – but I know someone who is.”

Then refer to a few individuals who ARE qualified to answer their specific questions. Hygienists, RTPEs, lawyers, doctors, and health professionals, etc.


Deeper dive into mold remediation tips

Ken's insights on navigating insurance communication are just the start. When handling water damage insurance claims, there's more to consider regarding mold.

  • Removing mold is key: Just killing mold isn't enough; it needs containment. The real focus should be on physically removing it from the affected area.


Question #4: Is there such a thing as category 4 water damage?

Ken: Kind of! But it's actually called, “Regulated, hazardous materials, and mold.” Some substances, like asbestos, lead, and mold, are regulated and require a license for handling or removal in certain areas. The scenario doesn't fit into Category 1-3 water loss because the law doesn't regulate Cat 1-3.


Exploring water categories in restoration

The world of water damage restoration is always evolving, especially in categorizing water. Here’s a quick rundown of some key updates and techniques:

Question #5: How to prove toilet overflow damage to an insurance adjuster

Ken: It’s unlikely the homeowner accessed all the areas a quality restorer would access – right? The water could have gone under the sink, toilet, or bathtub. It could have also gone into the adjacent room or basement, or behind the baseboards. Think about it.

A skilled Indoor Environmental Professional (IEP) can determine the water category by sampling surfaces that have not been cleaned or disinfected.

Knowledge and tools needed for professional water damage restoration

Long slow drying questions... - Rollitup

I have learned a lot my past 3 seasons, and this year, I've imparted what I've learned from experience - it has paid off. My girls are a few days from ready (at least the colas.)

I wanted to ask you super experienced dudes what you think of a long drying period. I'm not talking about the curing process at all, just the drying process. I've had success cutting off the large fan leaves, leaving the medium and short leaves and hanging large sections to dry - then I don't even bother to look at them for at least a week. Combination of wet and dry trimming before and after.

Obviously, strains and sizes are different. My drying area is 47-50% RH and 65-68 degrees F. Last year my best tasting and smoking buds were the ones that slow dried for 16 days (then jar cured for a month or so).

Does anyone else like to do a really slow dry with their outdoor chops before curing? Wondering if anyone else had success with a long, mellow dry process.

Most of what I see online and in person is people in a hurry and drying wet trimmed for 3-7 days. That seems too fast to me, granted everyone's environment is personal preference and easy to manipulate. The longer the better in my opinion... I manicure pretty tight while still wet then hang dry for 5-7 days on the stems .. then pull the buds off the stems and fill paper shopping bags about 3" high with like size buds .. I'll leave them in the bags with the tops open for another 5-7 days, mixing them up once or twice a day .... then I'll close the paper bags and open/mix them once or twice a day for another 5-7 days ... then they get jarred up and burped daily for about 30-45 days .... finally they'll get vacuum sealed in bags and tucked away somewhere cool and dark
The longer the better in my opinion... I manicure pretty tight while still wet then hang dry for 5-7 days on the stems .. then pull the buds off the stems and fill paper shopping bags about 3" high with like size buds .. I'll leave them in the bags with the tops open for another 5-7 days, mixing them up once or twice a day .... then I'll close the paper bags and open/mix them once or twice a day for another 5-7 days ... then they get jarred up and burped daily for about 30-45 days .... finally they'll get vacuum sealed in bags and tucked away somewhere cool and dark

Sounds like a great method - I like the steps. How do you know when it is time to start closing the bags?
Sounds like a great method - I like the steps. How do you know when it is time to start closing the bags?

for the first couple days with the bags open you'll notice the top buds on the pile will feel a little crusty, while the buds underneath a little softer... then i mix them all up... once i stop noticing much difference in top and bottom buds i'll start closing the bags... if i notice them starting to get too soft, i'll leave the bag open again until they get crusty ... the whole process takes a while but it's easy and you avoid the shit grass smell dubs mentioned I've been growing for 10 years and I just hang the branches 4-5 days at 50% humidity, then I chop the buds into individual nugs and put them about a foot deep in the big paper leaf bags they sell to fill and put out to the curbs for fall cleanups for another 4 days bouncing them around a couple times a day, then fill jars halfway and burp and rotate for about 10 days then into turkey bags and continue burping and tossing to finish, leaving less air space as I go along and always have nice smelling rock hard nugs. I screwed up a few times and overdried over the years won't take my chances going overboard on drying, lessons learned. If rh in the buds drops below 55% rh then the cure stops. If you remoisten it will bring the RH up but the cure on the buds are done. That is why it is a good point not to over dry when hanging or drying. When I do 10 days to 2 weeks hang and the stems crack... and I jar it up to check rh it is right around 60%.

The ideal cure should be between 64 and 55. Too much and you will get mold...too little and the cure stops. Remember that buds will actually become more potent when kept in the perfect humidity for months.
Fast cures should never be an option. If you hang for long enough and cut the buds when they need to be cut then paper bags wont even be an option..
And trust me I've learned from experience the differnce
If you dont believe me ask ppl like double jj or dr who or richard drysift. Dont ever rush harvest...hang or cure
P.s. the purpose of burping your jars is the moister Goes to the outside of your buds and it releases the moisture from your jars. If you are putting it in a paper bag then you cut the buds from your stems too soon
If rh in the buds drops below 55% rh then the cure stops. If you remoisten it will bring the RH up but the cure on the buds are done. That is why it is a good point not to over dry when hanging or drying. When I do 10 days to 2 weeks hang and the stems crack... and I jar it up to check rh it is right around 60%.

The ideal cure should be between 64 and 55. Too much and you will get mold...too little and the cure stops. Remember that buds will actually become more potent when kept in the perfect humidity for months.
Fast cures should never be an option. If you hang for long enough and cut the buds when they need to be cut then paper bags wont even be an option..
And trust me I've learned from experience the differnce
If you dont believe me ask ppl like double jj or dr who or richard drysift. Dont ever rush harvest...hang or cure
P.s. the purpose of burping your jars is the moister Goes to the outside of your buds and it releases the moisture from your jars. If you are putting it in a paper bag then you cut the buds from your stems too soon

The main reason for the big paper bags is because I'm usually keeping one room at 50% and have new stuff being hung continuously that I don't want getting mold in the first couple days of hanging or the stuff already hanging to be too dry too fast. Well I dont know about other growers but I have one huge room that I am doing the same thing. I have different harvest times so I am moving dry stuff out while hanging new stuff. It's never cause any issues.
last Nov I'm hanging new with the old. I mean man what works for you works for you, but I will always try to encourage people to wait and go slow.
If rh in the buds drops below 55% rh then the cure stops. If you remoisten it will bring the RH up but the cure on the buds are done. That is why it is a good point not to over dry when hanging or drying. When I do 10 days to 2 weeks hang and the stems crack... and I jar it up to check rh it is right around 60%.

The ideal cure should be between 64 and 55. Too much and you will get mold...too little and the cure stops. Remember that buds will actually become more potent when kept in the perfect humidity for months.
Fast cures should never be an option. If you hang for long enough and cut the buds when they need to be cut then paper bags wont even be an option..
And trust me I've learned from experience the differnce
If you dont believe me ask ppl like double jj or dr who or richard drysift. Dont ever rush harvest...hang or cure
P.s. the purpose of burping your jars is the moister Goes to the outside of your buds and it releases the moisture from your jars. If you are putting it in a paper bag then you cut the buds from your stems too soon
Well said. Ill add if i may, the other point to burping is to exchange O2 so the bacteria stays alive.
If rh in the buds drops below 55% rh then the cure stops. If you remoisten it will bring the RH up but the cure on the buds are done. That is why it is a good point not to over dry when hanging or drying. When I do 10 days to 2 weeks hang and the stems crack... and I jar it up to check rh it is right around 60%.

The ideal cure should be between 64 and 55. Too much and you will get mold...too little and the cure stops. Remember that buds will actually become more potent when kept in the perfect humidity for months.
Fast cures should never be an option. If you hang for long enough and cut the buds when they need to be cut then paper bags wont even be an option..
And trust me I've learned from experience the differnce
If you dont believe me ask ppl like double jj or dr who or richard drysift. Dont ever rush harvest...hang or cure
P.s. the purpose of burping your jars is the moister Goes to the outside of your buds and it releases the moisture from your jars. If you are putting it in a paper bag then you cut the buds from your stems too soon

Right, and as I said specifically in my original post, I am not asking about the curing process, just the drying process. I think of them as two separate processes.
Right, and as I said specifically in my original post, I am not asking about the curing process, just the drying process. I think of them as two separate processes.
They are but when drying you have to take into consideration the curing. You cannot over dry.

For what its worth i hang whole with all leaves etc for 2 to 3 weeks depending. Buck when going into cure.