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1. What is stainless steel casting?
Stainless steel casting is the common forming process of stainless steel parts by pouring liquid stainless steel into mould, thus to achieve the shape of a product.
2. Which casting method is used To produce stainless steel castings?
Normally, investment casting, or lost wax casting, is the correct casting method to produce stainless steel castings, which can creat accurate dimensions, smooth surface finish, and net shape.
3. What are the common grades of stainless steel casting?
Common cast stainless steel grades are: 304, 316, 304L, 316L, 17-4 ph, 410, 416, , , etc.
4. What are the advantages of stainless steel casting?
Stainless steel casting allows for producing stainless steel components with complex shapes, less or no machining, no quantity limitations, and so no.
5. What type of tooling is required for stainless steel casting?
The company is the world’s best lost wax casting stainless steel supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.
A split aluminum tool or mold is used to create a wax pattern, which is then coated with layers of stucco and ceramic material. Before pouring the alloy, wax will be first melted away, which is where the term 'lost wax casting' originated. In other processes (forging, stamping, die casting), tooling is quite much more expensive.
6. What general tolerances can we meet for a stainless steel casting part?
For stainless steel investment castings, we can reach general tolerances ISO CT5-CT6. And for smaller precision parts, ISO CT4 can be available.
7. What is the typical surface finish after stainless steel casting?
General surface finish after stainless steel casting process can be around Ra6.3. There are several factors that may affect the surface roughness of stainless steel castings, for example, the precison of casting mold, the surface quality of wax patterns, and the coating material, etc.
8. Is small quantity acceptable for stainless steel castings in CFS foundry?
Yes, we do not have quantity limitation for stainless steel castings, even if a trial order with small quantity, it is also acceptable. Besides, we can supply demands of large quantity order with annual capability of 8,000t.
9. Can CFS foundry supply machining service as well after stainless steel casting?
Even if stainless steel casting can produce parts with net shape or near net shape, but sometimes, for tight dimensional tolerances, additional machining will be carried out. So to supply finished products, we also have a mature machining production line.
10. What is the lead time of stainless steel castings?
Normally, it will take us about 20-30 working days for 1 off sample, and another 25-35 working days for batch production.
11. How does CFS do quality control for stainless steel casting parts?
First of all, we have a district inner control system of each production process. Secondly,we are equipped with complete testing instruments, such as Spectrograph, Brinell & Rockwell hardness tester, Impect testing instrument, MT instrument, ect. Thirdly, sample will be provided before mass production. Also, for mass production, we will select some products randomly for testing. And even if there will be quality problem after delivery, we will also send replacements asap at our own costs or return parts of production payments to our customers directly.
12. What makes CFS different from other stainless steel foundries?
CFS Stainless Steel Foundry aims to produce top-quality stainless steel investment castings with a wide range of metal alloys. Our team has the extensive experience, knowledge and commitment to ensure that you will have a truly exceptional customer experience with us. We serve online at 7×24 hours.
44 henry,
I do a hundred or more centrifugal castings a week in gold and silver. Steam casting is a very effective method of making small castings , although, I find vacuum casting easier and more accurate. Nonetheless, you will always need a mold and the process for making that mold is almost universally the same. A huge part of successful casting is knowing where and how to attach sprues and, if required, vents. Using lead is a bad idea. I'm not one particularly frightened by lead toxicity (unless of course you are talking about the kind of "lead poisoning" that a fired bullet represents) but even the most minute amounts of lead in silver or gold will destroy the alloy. Gold becomes so brittle when contaminated with even trace amounts of lead that you can crumble the casting in your hand.
If you are having trouble keeping the pattern on the sprues, your sprues are too small. Use wax wire (comes on spools) of sufficient gage to support the pattern as it is invested and to provide sufficient flow area for the molten metal. The number of sprues, the size, and the location are critical to get the casting to come out successfully and without porosity. As the casting chills, there must be sufficient liquid metal to draw from as the casting solidifies. That means that the thickest part of the casting should be the attach point for the main sprue and the sprue should be of sufficient size so that it does not solidify before the casting does. Otherwise, you will get a lot of porosity or shrink back at the attach point.
If the sprue can be inserted directly into the pattern and set up on the investment sprue former so that there is a straight shot out of the mold, you can use a piece of welding rod or even a nail. For example, I recently made a small sterling silver cannon charm. To make the pattern, I dipped a piece of 1/8 inch diameter weld wire in wax until I had sufficient wax to turn on a lathe a small cannon barrel (1 " long) on the end of the wire. (The wire protruded from the cannon muzzle). I put the free end of the wire into wax on the top of the sprue former with the cannon barrel pattern standing straight up on this wire sprue. When the investment had set up, I pulled the rubber sprue former off the casting ring and the end of the wire was exposed sticking out of the bottom of the investment. I pulled the wire out of the mold with a pair of pliers, burned out the remaining wax and cast the charm. As a boy, I used to make perfect castings of insects by mounting them on a pin, investing them this way, and casting through the hole left when I removed the pin.
As mentioned by others, you can sometimes use plastic for sprues. However, be advised that most plastics require a burn out at much higher temperatures to be completely removed. Also, some plastics will expand quite a bit as they are heated and they can crack a delicate mold before they burn out.
Hope this helps. I would also heed Acres advice about getting the gear you need. The references he sites also carry the spools of wax wire (made specifically for casting sprues) in several gages.
Merry Christmas
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