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When it comes to ordering silver sheet and wire for jewelry making, as a beginner all the different options can often become overwhelming. When you are starting out creating jewelry you don't want to break the bank buying a bunch of materials you may never utilize! You want to have the ability to be thoughtful about your design, considering which thickness of metal will be appropriate for executing your vision and also strong enough to hold up during daily wear.
In this comprehensive guide, I will provide visuals to help demystify the different options so that the next time you purchase materials for a project you can do so in confidence! Whether you're a seasoned artisan or a budding jeweler, understanding the nuances of the different options is crucial for bringing your designs to life.
Before we talk about anything we must discuss the different options for purchasing silver. The most common is sterling silver (.925) which has 7.5% copper giving the sterling durability and strength but increasing its susceptibility to firescale and tarnish. The other main option is fine silver (.999) It's significantly softer than sterling, has a whiter appearance and is way less prone to tarnishing as it is almost entirely pure silver. Fine silver can be fused.
My perspective for beginners is that fine will generally be too soft for ring bands and structural parts of your jewelry designs, it can dent and bend. It can however be nice for a bezel wire.Then there is Argentium Silver which comes in two grades .940 and .960. It has increased tarnish resistance, a whiter color and a firestain-free surface. Argentium guarantees traceability of its raw silver, it is certified to be produced using only recycled silver. It can also be fused unlike sterling silver. Sounds amazing, but I confess I have very little personal experience with it, it wasn't very popular when I came onto the jewelry making scene in . There are some differences between working with Argentium and Sterling so if you choose this path be sure to read up on it!
Most jewelers especially beginners will likely learn with Sterling, it is the most affordable and the durability aspect is very important!
When you go to buy a sheet of silver you are going to have to select a 'gauge'. This is the common measurement used here in United States. Gauge is a standardized measurement, the lower the gauge number the thicker the metal is and that is where much of the confusion begins! It is also important to understand the corresponding measurements in millimeters which I will also provide.
Sheet metal is going to be one of your most commonly used forms of silver when making jewelry. Sheet is available for purchase from jewelry supply companies here in the United States from 8g (3.2mm) to 34g (0.2mm) so that is quite the range! In this article I'm going to focus on sterling silver (.925) when making my recommendations.
To answer the above question I have to start with the annoying response 'it depends'. Without knowing what you are designing I can't provide an exact answer but I can explain a good place to start as a beginner and why.Generally speaking if your plan is to have sheet on hand to use as the baseplate of bezel settings and pendants or perhaps sheet for earrings'you cannot go wrong with purchasing 18g (1mm) it is thick enough to be stamped, light enough to construct earrings and strong enough to back a bezel without warping. While on the thinner side it could also be used to create a ring band making it a very versatile purchase. If it is within your budget I would also recommend some 20g (.81mm) and some 16g (1.2mm) having these slightly thinner and thicker options will give you more versatility as you continue on making jewelry. My preference with my jewelry business (corkieboltonjewelry.com) is to make jewelry that is on the thicker side, not heavy or chunky but just substantial.
On top of selecting the metal type (sterling or fine) and the gauge you will also have the options for different tempers. Temper refers to the hardness of the metal. The options are: dead soft (annealed), ¼ hard (a bit resistant to bending but readily takes shape) , ½ hard (has been worked a bit, tightening the grain at the molecular level. You can still bend the metal a bit, with force), and spring hard (thoroughly hardened and has basically no malleability.) If you will be soldering on the piece you're making, you may as well start with dead soft because it's easy to work with and any hardness the metal may have will be lost when you apply heat to solder. Here is an example of when to order a harder sheet: Let's say all I'm doing is sawing out a design and cold connecting it, a harder option gives strength to my piece, and that strength will be maintained since I'm not soldering.
So with those options in mind, here are a few questions you can ask yourself when designing your project and selecting the sheet: Is the project I'm making going to get a lot of wear and tear (like a ring or a bracelet?) If the answer is yes, sterling is your best choice (since fine silver is softer). Next you need to choose a gauge heavy enough to experience the wear and tear but light enough to be comfortably. Heavy earrings for example can be uncomfortable and a while delicate ring can be cute it can also get squished. Maybe you are making a bunch of bezels and using simple backplates 20g (.81mm) would likely save you a little money but still be strong enough!
When it comes to ordering metal for jewelry making all the different options can often become overwhelming. There are so many varieties of sheet metals, wires and decorative metals. So I partnered with Rio Grande to provide a guide with some helpful tips and considerations for confidently buying materials for your next project!
Wire is going to be your next most commonly used form of silver in jewelry making and thankfully it is not as much of an investment to purchase different gauges because you can buy a single foot of wire pretty inexpensively. Wire can be commonly found in even more gauges 0 (8.26mm) - 32 (.2mm). Wire is used in so many different ways you will want to consider once again: what kind of project am I making? Where on the body will it be worn? If we use the image of rings as an example we can see that the 10g (2.5mm) wire will provide us with more strength than the 14g (1.6mm). It is probably that a 14g ring like this in sterling silver would become mishappen in no time at all, but it could make a beautiful hoop earring! So choosing the gauge wire you will need for a project definitely depends on the amount of wear and tear (for example bangles and rings gets more wear and tear than earrings and pendants).
For earring posts and French wires I have found that 20g (0.80mm) is good for most customers. The hardness of the wire you choose is once again all about application, if you are soldering the wire it becomes annealed, but if you are making an earring wire which will simply be formed and cold connected, you could in this case benefit from working with half-hard or hard since it will maintain that hardness and give the earring wire strength! You can also use hard wire for wrapping wire or creating rivets.
I wanted to include an image of half round wire as well because it is extremely popular, and if you order it based off of what you know about round wire you might end up with wire a bit thinner than you expected! Half-round has a flat side and a round sound making it a great option for ring bands and cuffs! The gauge is determined by the thickest part of the wire, but because it doesn't have this thickness throughout it is a daintier wire! So personally I would purchase 8g or thicker for a ring and I'd experiement with gauges 0-4 for cuffs! You want those to be sturdy!
One of the most common questions is: what gauge bezel wire should I purchase? It typically comes in gauges 24 (.51mm) - 30 (.25mm) and in various heights. First, let's focus on gauge. If you are newer to bezel setting, consider 28g-30g because it's easier to push over, especially if you're doing it all by hand using a bezel rocker tool and a burnisher. You might even consider a fine silver bezel because it will push over more easily. If you're hammer setting, either with a hammer hand piece or manually, you can use a thicker gauge bezel wire.
Next, consider the stone you plan to set and look up the stone's hardness (MOH scale). If the stone is delicate you should set by hand (as opposed to hammer) and therefore can use a thinner gauge (28-30g). Softer stones can be set with thicker bezels but this takes some practice, when I was starting out I accidently hammered many an opal!
Regarding bezel height, take the shape and height of your cabochon into consideration. Order a few heights of bezel wire so you have options, if it's too tall you can always trim it down or sand it. If you like to use a variety of cabochons in your work you'll find having a variety of bezel wire on hand very helpful. In my book I dedicated an entire section to choosing the right bezel height and other bezel setting tips!
There are tons of gallery wires, decorative bezels and patterned wire options available to purchase. With the knowledge you now how you can look at the listing and see how thick these items are, how tall they are if you are using them to set a stone. Whether they are a good choice for your design. Sometimes the heart wants what the heart wants, you are drawn to a wire and you buy it and figure out a design later and that's okay!
Gallery wires should be annealed (carefully) prior to forming due to how they are produced they can be a bit brittle when you form them, same is true of some of the beaded wires! You want to form all of these gently and be careful not to mar your metal! I know melting is definitely an issue many beginners experience so when you work with decorative wires be gently with your heat. Directing your flame from below instead of putting the flame directly onto the decorative wire can help prevent melting.
You can find jewelry making materials form the following retailers:
HALSTEAD BEAD
STULLER
RIO GRANDE
If you are interested in learning more definitely check out my book Metalsmith Society's Guide To Jewelry Making. It covers all the tools you need to get started making jewelry, safety, all the basic techniques and includes ten simple projects to get you going! I have a shopping list for each project so if you are lookinh for a basic project to get started grab a copy of my book today!
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There is so much more than what meets the eye when it comes to jewelry metal types! Beyond color and weight, there are many factors to consider when shopping for new jewelry. Keep reading to learn all about different metal types and their characteristics.
Buying Different Metal TypesDifferent metals come with different colors, strengths, durabilities, benefits, and downsides. Before making a big purchase, it's important to consider all your options to ensure you're getting the best possible piece for you! Let's break down the different characteristics to consider when shopping for different metal types.
ColorWhen looking for new jewelry, understanding the natural colors of metals and how they complement your skin can be very helpful. Certain metals also change color depending on their reaction to other materials and wear.
Generally speaking, cooler skin tones work best with cooler metals, such as white gold and platinum. Warmer skin tones match well with hues of yellow gold. As always, the best way to determine the right color for you is to try on various pieces and see how they complement your look!
Certain metals also change color depending on their reaction to other materials and wear ' so keep this in mind!
Sometimes a piece of jewelry looks great on you, regardless of these guidelines. Wear what makes you feel confident and beautiful!
Related blog post: How To Pick The Right Engagement Ring For Your Skin Tone
Naturally, different metal types have different densities, which directly influences their weights. When wearing large earrings, for example, you may want to opt for a lighter metal (such as titanium) to make sure you feel comfortable.
Denser metals are also more expensive. This is something to consider when shopping on a budget!
Ultimately, metal weights have a lot to do with personal preference and comfort levels. The weight of jewelry will affect the way it hangs, feels on the skin, and its overall presence.
Contact us to discuss your requirements of aluminium gates. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.
Hardness and DurabilityDurability is a very important factor when purchasing jewelry that you'll want to stand the test of time. Metals like platinum are known for their durability and resistance to tarnish and wear. Metals like gold are known for their softness and are often alloyed with metals like copper to give it extra strength (which can be found in 14K or 18K gold).
Understanding different metals and their strengths will help you pick the right metal for your daily activities and uses.
Keep reading for a breakdown of each metal type and its durability!
Scratch resistanceIf you're constantly on the run or are prone to bangs and scratches, pay special attention to metals that are more forgiving than others. Some metals, such as the aforementioned platinum, are far more resistant to scratches than metals such as gold.
If you know, you'll wear your jewelry daily, think ahead and purchase a scratch-resistant metal. It will save you anxiety in the long run and last you ages!
Hypoallergenic vs Irritant To SkinWhether you have sensitive skin or not, it's a good idea to consider a metal's potential to cause allergic reactions.
Metal TypeHypoallergenicIrritant to SkinYellow GoldHypoallergenicPotential IrritantWhite GoldNot HypoallergenicPotential IrritantRose GoldNot HypoallergenicPotential IrritantSilverGenerally HypoallergenicPossible IrritantPlatinumHypoallergenicUsually Not IrritantTitaniumHypoallergenicUnlikely IrritantTungstenHypoallergenicRarely IrritantTantalumHypoallergenicRarely IrritantCobalt ChromeNot HypoallergenicCommon IrritantNot to be confused with the carat weight of a diamond, a metal carat refers to the quantity of pure gold that is found in metal.
Now that we have a general overview of metal characteristics, we can dive deeper into specific metal types and what they offer!
Precious MetalsYellow gold is a historically coveted precious metal known for its warm and rich luster. While its purest form, 24K, is far too malleable for everyday wear, it is commonly alloyed with other metals, such as copper and zinc, to improve its durability.
Pros: Looks great on most skin tones, offers a timeless and traditional look that never goes out of style
Cons: Soft, not the most contemporary color
White gold is a popular alloy that combines gold with other metals such as palladium or zinc. Doing so gives the metal a luminous white sheen. White gold is often plated with rhodium to enhance its strength and color.
Pros: Has the look of platinum at a lower cost, has a contemporary look and feel.
Cons: Over time, the rhodium may wear off, requiring maintenance.
Rose gold imbues any look with color and warmth. Rose gold is made by mixing pure gold with copper. Similar to yellow gold, rose gold does not require plating and can easily be polished.
Pros: Looks great on different skin tones.
Cons: Is made with copper, which may cause allergic reactions.
Platinum is one of the most popular jewelry metals out there! Platinum offers both eye-catching beauty and strength that can withstand everyday wear. Platinum will not tarnish from air exposure and can be polished if damaged. Platinum's positive qualities are reflected in its price, making it one of the more expensive options on the list.
Pros: A durable metal, ideal for everyday wear.
Cons: More expensive than other metals.
Silver is another metal option that is both popular, stunning, and affordable. While many different percentages of silver alloys exist, sterling silver is the most common. Due to silver's malleability. it is not ideal for engagement or wedding rings. Instead, silver is ideal for intricate pieces. Frequent polishing will keep silver looking clean and bright.
Pros: Affordable option without compromising on beauty.
Cons: Require maintenance due to oxidation.
So what exactly does 'hypoallergenic' even mean? Hypoallergenic jewelry is jewelry specifically designed to be less irritating to those with sensitive skin. Such pieces are made from materials known to be softer on the skin. Materials such as titanium, surgical-grade stainless steel, and niobium are all great options.
Hypoallergenic jewelry is often used for body piercings since piercings are highly likely to produce adverse reactions. But gentler metals are also favored by those with nickel allergies, as hypoallergenic jewelry does not contain nickel. In recent years, hypoallergenic jewelry has grown in popularity as more people search for jewelry that looks and feels good on the skin.
A List Of Hypoallergenic MaterialsThe most common hypoallergenic metals are the following:
While silver and gold have long held the spotlight in the jewelry world, there are many other metals to choose from. Options such as titanium, ceramic, and stainless steel offer unique aesthetics and functionality that cater to several different needs.
From their contemporary look to their hypoallergenic or lightweight properties, alternative metals are surely something to look into. In , alternative metals are particularly popular for men's wedding rings- offering style and comfort for all kinds of grooms.
Titanium has recently grown in popularity due to its rich black color and lightweight feel. While titanium is quite durable, it is not heavy or cumbersome to wear. Instead, titanium is a popular metal for men's wedding rings, offering a contemporary twist and versatility ideal for everyday usage.
TantalumSimilar to titanium, tantalum went from traditional uses in technology to being a niche jewelry favorite. Tantalum is incredibly resistant to wear and corrosion, rivaling most traditional metals. Its dark hue offers a contemporary, sleek aesthetic for those looking for a distinct and resilient metal.
TungstenWhile tungsten may most commonly be associated with industrial uses, it has quickly found its place amongst popular robust jewelry metals. Tungsten offers an almost scratch-proof finish, ensuring longevity and strength.
While tungsten has a weightier feel than similar metals, this can be ideal for those looking for a metal that imbues strength, modernity, and tradition.
Colbat ChromeCobalt chrome is a unique blend of cobalt and chromium that has recently seen a surge in popularity. Known for its radiance that closely mirrors platinum or white gold, cobalt chrome has more than what meets the eye.
This metal stands out due to its durability, scratch resistance, and hypoallergenic properties.
CeramicCeramic has recently emerged as a popular choice for those looking to step a little bit outside the (jewelry) box. Not to be confused with the common ceramics used in pottery, ceramic in jewelry is a high-tech material known for its lightweight, scratch resistance, and luster.
ConclusionIn the ever-expanding and exciting world of jewelry, the number of choices available to you is always growing. From timeless classics like gold and silver to contemporary alternative metals like titanium and tungsten, each material brings forth its unique narrative, characteristics, aesthetics, and benefits.
Choose the best metal for you and your needs, from functionality to comfort to history. After all, the metals we wear tell a story just as multifaceted and nuanced as the individuals who wear them!
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