Framing hammers are among the most polarizing tools in the construction industry. From the outer diameter of the head to the material of the handle, each detail influences the hammer's function. In this guide, we delve into the world of framing hammers to help you choose the best hammer for framing based on your needs and preferences. Whether you prefer a traditional hammer with a hickory handle or a modern titanium hammer with magnetic nail starter, the options are vast. Understanding the physics of a hammer and the technique of the user is crucial for efficient use. Join us in exploring the various types of framing hammers and their unique features to find your framing hammer of choice.
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Many plumbers, electricians and mechanical workers often find themselves crawling around in tight spaces and therefore prefer short hammers, because they're less likely to get hung up.
Some remodelers like 16-in. handles because they can use them as a quick guide to locating (not layout) a stud behind drywall or sheathing if they know the location of an adjacent stud. There are also siding installers who spend a good portion of the day on ladders and don't like long hatchet-style handles or curved handles, because they tend to protrude forward just far enough to catch on the rungs when climbing down a ladder.
Most hammer handles are 14 to 18 inches long and are available in either a straight, curved or hatchet style. Hatchet-style hammer handles are a bit narrower than straight handles.
'I swing the 15 oz. Estwing Ultra, smooth face . I use it for demo, framing, trim, dirt digger,' says Josh Blake, a carpenter. 'Can't beat the classic Estwing grip and the side nail puller is super handy.'
Some folks just love the feel of wood, and most wood handle hammers don't have a grip material added to them. Cushy handle grips feel good but also tend to wear faster. Trim carpenters often choose grips with a rubber bottom so the handle doesn't leave a mark when they squat down or bump into finished surfaces.
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Most hammer heads weigh anywhere between 16 and 22 ounces. But that can be a little misleading because there's no industry standard on how to weigh a hammer head. Weighing a hammer head with wooden and fiberglass handles is straightforward: just take the head off the handle and weigh it. But there is more of a gray area when it comes to hammers that are made with integrated steel handles and strike guards.
There are several things to consider when it comes to the weight of a hammer:
How you use it: If you do a lot of hammering above your head or even straight on, then lighter is better. If you are always swinging down low, like a mason building forms, then heavy is okay.
How often you use it: If it's necessary that a hammer hangs from your pouch all day, but you use it infrequently, buy a lighter hammer. There's no point in carrying around a massive weight on your side if you barely ever use it.
Your strength: Remember high school physics? Here's a quick refresher: Force = Mass x Acceleration. This means a heavier hammer packs a larger wallop. BUT that's only if you can swing the beast. There's a point where a hammer becomes too heavy to swing fast, and a greater force would be achieved by swinging a lighter hammer, faster. What that point is will depend on the strength of the swinger.
Balance: Some folks love to swing a hammer with a super heavy head and a feather-light handle. Some prefer a hammer with a lower center of gravity like steel handled hammers have. Whenever possible, swing a hammer before buying one. Ask your friends, neighbors or the folks around you on a jobsite to try out their hammer before buying yours.
'The idea of balance means that weight is evenly distributed between top and bottom AND forward and backward,' says Vaughn. 'A well-balanced hammer will HELP swing itself. If you have an unbalanced hammer you might have less work hitting the nail but MORE work bringing it back up'unbalanced hammers cause muscles to ache after use!'
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