Too much fertilizer is not only a waste of money, but it can damage plants and harm the environment.
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With the right amount of nutrients, your garden can thrive and provide pounds of produce for harvest.
Like us, plants need nutrients in varying amounts for healthy growth. There are 17 essential nutrients that all plants need, including carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, which plants get from air and water. The remaining 14 are obtained from soil but may need to be supplemented with fertilizers or organic materials such as compost.
Nutrient availability in soils is a function of several factors including soil texture (loam, loamy sand, silt loam), organic matter content and pH.
Clay particles and organic matter in soils are chemically reactive and will hold and slowly release nutrient ions that can be used by plants.
Soils that are finer-textured (more clay) and higher in organic matter (5-10%) have greater nutrient-holding ability than sandy soils with little or no clay or organic matter. Sandy soils in Minnesota are also more prone to nutrient losses through leaching, as water carries nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium or sulfur below the root zone where plants can no longer access them.
Soil pH is the degree of alkalinity or acidity of soils. When pH is too low or too high, chemical reactions can alter the nutrient availability and biological activity in soils. Most fruits and vegetables grow best when soil pH is slightly acidic to neutral, or between 5.5 and 7.0.
There are some exceptions; blueberries, for example, require a low pH (4.2-5.2). Soil pH can be modified using materials like lime (ground limestone) to raise pH or elemental sulfur to lower pH.
In general, most Minnesota soils have enough calcium, magnesium, sulfur and micronutrients to support healthy plant growth. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the nutrients most likely to be deficient and should be supplemented with fertilizers for optimum plant growth.
The best method for assessing nutrient availability in your garden is to do a soil test. A basic soil test from the University of Minnesota's Soil Testing Laboratory will give a soil texture estimate, organic matter content (used to estimate nitrogen availability), phosphorus, potassium, pH and lime requirement.
The analysis will also come with a basic interpretation of results and provide recommendations for fertilizing.
There are many options for fertilizers and sometimes the choices may seem overwhelming. The most important thing to remember is that plants take up nutrients in the form of ions, and the source of those ions is not a factor in plant nutrition.
For example, plants get nitrogen via NO3- (nitrate) or NH4+ (ammonium), and those ions can come from either organic or synthetic sources and in various formulations (liquid, granular, pellets or compost).
The fertilizer you choose should be based primarily on soil test results and plant needs, both in terms of nutrients and speed of delivery.
Other factors to consider include soil and environmental health as well as your budget.
All commercially available fertilizers have what is called a guaranteed analysis, meaning the percent of each major nutrient, by weight, in the fertilizer must be listed on the package as N-P-K.
For example, 10 pounds of 17-18-28 tomato food fertilizer contains 1.7 pounds of nitrogen, 1.8 pounds of phosphorus oxide (P2O5 ' phosphate), and 2.8 pounds of potassium oxide (K2O ' potash).
Many garden fertilizers contain additional nutrients. Inorganic fertilizers generally list all nutrients on the label, organic fertilizers often contain a wide array of plant nutrients and may not list them all.
If you cannot find a fertilizer with the exact N-P-K ratio that is recommended by your soil test report, you should select a product with a ratio that most closely matches. It's more important to match the nitrogen recommendation than the phosphorus or potassium recommendations, but try not to exceed the phosphorus recommendation because of water quality concerns.
Note that a 10-20-10 fertilizer has a ratio of nutrients that is 1:2:1, meaning that for every 1 pound of N, there are 2 pounds of P2O5 and 1 pound of K2O.
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Fertilizers are either inorganic or organic.
Regardless of which fertilizers you choose, consider adding additional organic materials to support overall soil health. Carbon-based materials such as organic fertilizers, compost, grass clippings or cover crops provide a range of benefits to both plants and soil.
Diagnosing nutrient deficiencies or excesses in fruits and vegetables is challenging. Many nutrient issues look alike, often more than one nutrient is involved, and the reasons for them can be highly variable.
Here are some examples of issues you may see in the garden.
N-P-K fertilizers with ratios of 1:2:2 or 1:2:1 are particularly well-suited for transplants and can be applied when plants are set in the ground.
Foliar fertilizers may also be helpful in some cases, although most nutrient acquisition is through plant roots.
Foliar fertilization may be used to correct deficiencies during the growing season, to provide micronutrients such as zinc or iron when soil pH is greater than 7, or to supply nutrients such as potassium and phosphorus in cool spring soils, when plant roots absorb fewer nutrients
Finally, remember to use fertilizer wisely and always follow label instructions. Too much fertilizer is not only a waste of money, but it can damage plants and harm the environment. With the right amount of nutrients, however, your garden can thrive and provide pounds of produce for harvest.
Rosen, C., Bierman, P., and Finney, H., . Soil Resources and Fertilizers. In Weisenhorn, J. (Ed.), Master Gardener Core Course: Horticulture for the Home Gardener, 41-88. University of Minnesota Extension.
Rosen, C. and Eliason, R., . Nutrient Management for Commercial Fruit & Vegetable Crops in Minnesota. University of Minnesota Extension. http://hdl.handle.net//. Accessed 7/.
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Click to expand...Even though many of these nutrients (both macro and micro) are present in aquariums as a result of using tap water and other chemical processes, usually it is the case that most of these are not found in significant quantities to assure good plant growth. In the vast majority of tanks, dosing fertilisers (commonly abbreviated as ferts) is necessary.
Note: These are not the only methods available, but these are the most prominent in North America and other English-speaking countries (Australia, New Zealand, etc.). Other methods, such asThe difference between these methods is related to the input ferts (whether it is a premixed solution or a dry fertiliser compound); how much of each fert to dose; and how often ferts are to be dosed. Because of these differences, choosing between one of these methods for a beginner can be a bewildering decision. This is especially the case when trying to decide between a nutrient rich method such as the EI method compared to a nutrient lean method such as PPS.These are not the only methods available, but these are the most prominent in North America and other English-speaking countries (Australia, New Zealand, etc.). Other methods, such as ADA , can be found commonly in Europe and Asia.
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Note: Because most all-in-one ferts are quite dilute and their dosing recommendations very conservative, most would be considered nutrient lean.These and other differences arise mostly because of competing (and in some cases, mutually exclusive) understandings of plant biology and how nutrients are best apportioned in aquariums to elicit good plant worth while minimising undesirable effects (such as algae). This guide won't seek to explain the differences in depth due to the relative complexity (and contested nature) of the underlying theory. Aquarists are instead encouraged to read the 'Which Dosing Approach?' article at advancedplantedtank.com as an example of one way to differentiate across methods of dosing. In addition, planted tank has historically been dominated by EI dosing, while aquaticplantcentral.com has a higher proportion of PPS users.: Because most all-in-one ferts are quite dilute and their dosing recommendations very conservative, most would be considered nutrient lean. NilocG Thrive is one exception because of its concentrated formulation.
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Note: Flourish is sometimes called Flourish Comprehensive to avoid confusion with other Flourish products. Despite its informal name, it is not a comprehensive, all-in-one fert. It has a distinct lack of macros and is best used as a micro fert. See: Flourish is sometimes calledto avoid confusion with other Flourish products. Despite its informal name, it isa comprehensive, all-in-one fert. It has a distinct lack of macros and is best used as a micro fert. See this sticky thread by Mak for further information.
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Click to expand...The EI method typically uses dry ferts, the primary compounds being:
Click to expand...Under a high tech tank environment, these quantities are dosed three times a week, with a 50% water change at the end of the week. Macros (KNO3 and KH2PO4) are dosed on alternate days and are dosed separately from micros (Plantex CSM+B or Flourish). For example, macros may be dosed on Monday, Wednesday and Friday; micros dosed on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday; and a water change is completed on Sunday.
Click to expand...It is highly recommended to read section 7 regarding the use of iron ferts for more complete information about their use.
There are many excellent articles, guides and threads on aquatic plant fertilisers here at FishLore, on planted tank , thebarrreport.com, aquaticplantcentral.com and advancedplantedtank.com. The aI'm of this guide isn't to replace these resources, but to collate a comprehensive range of useful information in a way that's accessible for beginners; to cover the most popular methods for dosing ferts; and to address some common aspects of fert use that aren't immediately apparent.All plants require(often calledor) in significant amounts, and these include(N),(P) and(K).Both nitrogen (in the form ofNO3) and phosphorus (in the form ofPO4) occur within aquariums as a result of the nitrogen cycle and the decomposition of excess fish food . Likewise, potassium is often found in trace quantities in tap water In addition, plants require(sometimes referred to asand/or) in lesser amounts. These include iron, magnesium calcium , sulfur, copper and several other elements. Many of these are found in tap water.Even though many of these nutrients (both macro and micro) are present in aquariums as a result of using tap water and other chemical processes, usually it is the case that most of these are not found inquantities to assure good plant growth. In the vast majority of tanks, dosing fertilisers (commonly abbreviated as) is necessary.is sometimes considered a macronutrient as plants typically comprise up to 60-70% carbon. However, in planted tank fert dosing, sources of carbon are in most cases not listed as ferts because its main source is in the form carbon dioxide (CO2). Some products, including Excel and Metricide 14, can be dosed to supply. This is are examined in more detail inThere are a number of informal and formalised methods of dosing ferts, including (but not limited to):The difference between these methods is related to the input ferts (whether it is a premixed solution or a dry fertiliser compound); how much of each fert to dose; and how often ferts are to be dosed. Because of these differences, choosing between one of these methods for a beginner can be a bewildering decision. This is especially the case when trying to decide between amethod such as the EI method compared to amethod such as PPS.These and other differences arise mostly because of competing (and in some cases, mutually exclusive) understandings of plant biology and how nutrients are best apportioned in aquariums to elicit good plant worth while minimising undesirable effects (such as algae). This guide won't seek to explain the differences in depth due to the relative complexity (and contested nature) of the underlying theory. Aquarists are instead encouraged to read the 'Which Dosing Approach?' article at advancedplantedtank.com as an example of one way to differentiate across methods of dosing. In addition, planted tank has historically been dominated by EI dosing, while aquaticplantcentral.com has a higher proportion of PPS users.For aall of the above methods work well and can provide the necessary footing to become acquainted with ferts and other aspects of planted tanks. Because the input ferts are largely the same across EI and PPS (and any additional ferts can often be purchased affordably), switching between methods is simple if one should choose to do so in the future.It is important to note, at this stage, that both EI and PPS rely on awith sufficient plant biomass: simply having oneand a few patches of Java moss ' isn't likely to work well. Ais better served by the conservative use of an all-in-one fert (seedirectly below).There are several aquarium-specificavailable which combine both macros and micros in a single mix. Most (if not all) are in the form of a liquid solution that is added directly to the tank's water column.Many of these products are, and the bulk of the fert is simply a water solvent to the effect that one is mostly paying for water when purchasing these products. In addition, many contain little (if any) nitrogen or phosphorus based on the assumption that the aquarist's tank has a sufficient bioload such that nitrate and phosphates need not be dosed. This may not be the case for every tank, and many planted tanks typically have a low bioload due to aquascaping requirements.The most useful all-in-one fert is, which is both comprehensive (all macros and micros) and concentrated. Thrive has a guaranteed analysis for its chemical composition and moreover, the fert's proportion of nutrients and recommend doses are structured according to the requirements of the Estimative Index (EI) method of dosing. Few competitor products offer a comprehensive listing of the solute nutrients in the fert.The advantage in using a product like Thrive is that it is (1) easy to understand; and (2) easy to use, both of which are useful for beginners. It is particularly useful forwhere using either EI or PPS may cause issues.The disadvantage is that it's (1) unable to increase the dose of an individual nutrient in response to a particular deficiency; and (2) less cost-effective compared to using separate dry chemical fertilisers (which are often called).One caveat in using Thrive is that because of high fert concentration, it isn't especially best practice to follow the dosing instructions if your tank isas the recommend doses and frequency of dosing are structured according to high light, CO2-injected, well planted tanks with a low bioload. Inwithand, it's better to use(1 pump per 20 gallons instead of 1 pump per 10 gallons)(instead of 2-3 times a week). For, it is recommended to useThe Estimative Index (EI) method of fert dosing was developed by Tom Barr, a noted planted tank expert who frequently contributes to the community at planted tank and thebarrreport.com.The underlying principle of the EI method is theof nutrients: all nutrients are dosed in excess to prevent a deficiency occurring for any given nutrient. Excess nutrients are removed through regular water changes . This is coupled with adequate lighting and sufficient CO2.The EI method typically uses, the primary compounds being:1.(KNO3)2.(KH2PO4)3. A micro fert mix, such asor4.(K2SO4) (Dosing K2SO4 is, as both KNO3 and KH2PO4 will generally supply adequate amounts of potassium when dosed according to recommended quantities for nitrate and phosphate.On some occasions, when a tank's nitrate and/or phosphate levels are in excess without ferts (due to an elevated bioload and/or high feeding frequency), neither KNO3 or KH2PO4 are necessary. In which case, K2SO4 can be dosed separately as a potassium fert. K2SO4 can also be usedKNO3 and KH2PO4 in the case that potassium deficiency is observed in plants.In addition, many planted tank aquarists dose an additionalseparately from their micro fert mix. This is discussed separately inThe following are thefor atank injected with(often referred to as atank):: 5-30 ppm: 1-3 ppm: 10-30 ppm: 0.2-0.5 ppmThese targets are offered as a guide and the majority of people willin response to observations of plant growth. The adjustability of EI is important as no two tanks are alike in their nutrient uptake. As example, because of the density of fast-growing, stem plants in my planted tank, I routinely dose 4-5 ppm of PO4.In order to reach the lower threshold of these targets, the following doses are required: 154.67 mg (5 ppm NO3 and 3.15 ppm K): 137.22 mg (1 ppm PO4 and 0.46 ppm K): 58 mg (0.2 ppm Fe): 1.2 ml (o.2 ppm Fe)Under atank environment, these quantities are doseda week, with awater change at the end of the week. Macros (KNO3 and KH2PO4) are dosed onand are dosedfrom micros (Plantex CSM+B or Flourish). For example, macros may be dosed on Monday, Wednesday and Friday; micros dosed on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday; and a water change is completed on Sunday.It isrecommended to readregarding the use of iron ferts for more complete information about their use.tanks are generally those that haveand are(sometimes Excel or Metricide 14 may be used as a carbon supplement). The recommended fert doses listed above for high tech tanks can be adjusted for these low tech environments.Rather than dosing 100% of the recommended dose three times a week, instead doseof the recommended dosea week. Instead of 50% water weekly water changes, opt for% weeklyOver time, in response to plant growth, dosing may be increased from 50% toof the recommended dose while maintaining the once per week dose frequency). If eitheroris used daily, then one may dose immediately begin to dose 100% of the recommended doses once per week.The iron present in micro ferts is generally. That is, the iron is bound toin order: (1) to improve its solubility in water; (2) to improve its biological availability to plants; and (3) to reduce the reactivity of iron to other elements/compounds in the water column (typically phosphate) which causes it to oxidise or precipitate into a form (such as ferrous phosphate) that is biologically unavailable to plants.Chelating agents include the compoundsand. The main distinction in use for planted tank aquarists is the stability of chelating agents at. All iron chelates are stable at different pH ranges, withcausing the iron to dissociate from the chelating agent and then becoming unavailable for plant uptake.The following is an approximate comparison of the percentage of iron that remains chelated at different pH levels with different chelating agents:iron chelate:6.0 pH, 100% of iron chelated6.5, 50%7.0, 10%7.5, 5%iron chelate:7.0 pH, 100% of iron chelated7.5, 50%8.0, 30%iron chelate:11.0 pH, 100% of iron chelatedThe iron present inis chelated with. For those tanks where the pH is regularly at or above 7.0 pH,is generally required to supplement Plantex CSM+B. Some aquarists routinely dose two or three times the recommended dose of Plantex CSM+B if their pH is at or slightly above 6.5 pH in order to provide sufficient iron. However, it isto dose Plantex CSM+B in proportions higher than this as there is vague anecdotal evidence that sufficient excess concentrations of other trace elements can cause toxicity issues. In addition, it isn't a particularly cost effective practice.In general, few micro ferts contain DTPA iron chelate, so it will often need to be purchased and dosed separately. In addition, while EDDHA is most stable at the widest range of pH, it isfor use in planted tanks due to its cost and tendency to stain tank water.It is important to note that the iron in(and in) is in the form ofWhile it is highly available for uptake by plants, it is also highly unstable and will generally become less available for plant uptake within 24 hours. Because of this, ferrous gluconate-based ferts need to be dosed. As with Plantex CSM+B, it isto dose Flourish daily due to vague anecdotal evidence regarding toxicity of other trace elements at excess concentrations (it also isn't a cost effective practice). Instead, it is recommended to use eitheriron chelate (depending on tank pH).
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