5 Things to Consider When Choosing a Lathe Machine

A lathe is a simple device, purposed to hold a section of chosen material to be shaped, cut or carved. There are different designs of lathe for different materials. This means that there are lathes specifically for use with woodwork, and lathes specifically for use with metalwork.

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Both traditional metalworking and woodworking lathes can rotate your workpiece, rather than holding it stationary like a vice. The cutting tool of a lathe remains stationary while your workpiece is rotated, whereas milling machines hold workpieces stationary while the cutting tool rotates. If you're certain you require lathes over vertical machining centers for milling, you're on the right track.

Just as with CNC milling machines, Computer Numerical Control can be applied to a lathe to automate the cutting process and provide precise results. Both horizontal and vertical CNC lathes are available to choose from. With this in mind, how should you approach purchasing your own machine? Here are 5 things to consider when choosing a lathe machine.

What type do you need?

The first thing to consider when choosing a lathe machine is the type that will best suit your needs. If you require exact results from your machine, a CNC lathe is your best choice. A CNC lathe is advanced enough to suit working with both metal and wood materials. Vertical CNC lathes are better suited for large jobs and heavy material, where horizontal CNC lathes work best for lighter materials like wood.

If you want a traditional machine, you may consider a woodworking lathe or a metalworking lathe. A woodworking lathe is cheaper than a metalworking lathe, but it can only work with wood and softer material. A metalworking lathe can work not only with steels and metal materials but also with wood.

What is a reasonable price?

As is true in every industry, you get what you pay for when selecting a lathe machine. The aim is to get the highest quality machine possible without overstretching your budget. Don't shell out for a CNC machine with great specifications if you aren't going to utilise it to the best of its ability. A manual lathe may suit your work fine.

Recognise that a lathe is an investment, so you don't want to go too cheap and potentially suffer poor quality work. On the flip side, also try to remember that you also must financially maintain and service any machine that you select. A machine that is too expensive to run could weigh your business down considerably.

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What brand would you like?

Every brand creating lathe machines must carve out its niche. Thoroughly research different brands offering CNC horizontal lathes and vertical lathes before deciding to purchase. The more you understand the unique benefits of each brand before selecting a specific machine, the more prepared you will feel to make an informed decision.

If you can find reviews for lathes before committing to them financially, you'll be able to see how sturdy the model has been for previous customers. GEMINIS, for example, pride their machines on accuracy, rigidity and reliability, all of which are incredibly important for an industrial machine.

Can you program your machine?

If you decide to progress to a CNC horizontal lathe or a CNC vertical lathe, you must be able to operate it. If you have little experience with Computer Numerical Control and coding in general, you're better off beginning with a model that understands conversational instructions. Take the time to figure out what style of programming you're best familiar with, and pick a machine that suits.

Is it worth risking second-hand?

An affordable way to purchase your first lathe machine is to take the second-hand route. Buying a used lathe machine can be a great idea since the machine has proven durable, but private sellers can be dishonest with the health of a machine. The peace of mind of a manufacturer's guarantee is comforting for such a large purchase. When relying on the performance of machinery for your business, selecting a well-reviewed machine from new is your safest bet.

For further advice on selecting and purchasing a lathe machine for your business, DTS UK can provide all the support you could need.

Sbalder said:

Used-rebuilt from a reputable rebuilder looks like a good alternative to new fresh off the boat. \

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Are there still "rebutable rebuilders" left in America?
There sure arent any in the half of the country that I live in.
Not only are there no rebuilders that I know of north of SF, there are virtually no used machinery dealers left up here either.

The last real rebuilder in the northwest that I was aware of, Yancey in Portland, went out of business a couple of years ago, and last I heard, they were running $25,000 to $50,000 and up to rebuild MANUAL machinery- that would be rescraping/grinding, refitting bearings, updating motors and electricals, and repainting.

Their only business was on machines like the 24" x 120" or so machine that Joe Micheals had them do five years or so ago for the powerplant utility he works for- certainly not on anything as small as a 16" lathe.

If there do still exist machinery rebuilders in the midwest or east coast that would undertake a 16" x 48" size range lathe, I cant imagine the cost- plus, of course, in my case, shipping miles or more round trip.

Anyway-
here is what I look for in a lathe-

Mass- there aint no substitute for lots of cast iron. I would want a 16" lathe to weigh at least lbs. The more the better. I want cast iron, not weldments.
This would carry thru to a decent sized tailstock, which should, at a minimum, outweigh a harbor freight 9x20 lathe.

Horsepower- 5hp is minimum for a 14"-16" lathe, more is better.

Speed range- there are lots of ancient boat anchors out there that top out at 600 rpm or so- I used to own a era overhead shaft drive machine like that- and it was very limited in what it could do in modern materials or with modern tooling. I would want a minimum of - rpm top speed.

Quick Change thread cutting- this has been a must have since about the 's, in my book. Homey aint changing no gears.

A brake. Yup, there are lots of lathes without em. I want one.

A modern quick change, commonly available chuck attachment system- I prefer D-1-6, as it is something everybody makes chucks for. NO threaded spindles. Also I would want currently available tapers on the tailstock and spindle, so you could actually buy tooling.

A big thru hole in the spindle. Again, you frequently see really really old lathes with tiny thru holes. I use the bigger hole capacity a lot, and I would consider 2" to 3 1/2" a minimum working size for a 16" lathe.

Available (hopefully already installed) thru spindle collet holding. Some machines, mostly those with the tiny spindle holes, are a real bear to get a collet system on. I think its a really handy thing, and I want my lathe to have one.

Taper attachment- preferably, attached.

Decent bearings, electrics, and hardware- in commonly available sizes, replaceable, and not something that requires pouring babbit or uses bicycle hubs for the main spindle.
This is harder to see, obviously, although the electricals are usually pretty easy to inspect- and this would be why you go with known manufacturers, like Whacheon, or Mori, Nardini or Romi or Leblonde or Pacemaker or Monarch or Hardinge and so on.

In this day and age, I would be considering a DRO and VFD controlled variable speed to be common on better new lathes, and something I would want.

Are there still "rebutable rebuilders" left in America?There sure arent any in the half of the country that I live in.Not only are there no rebuilders that I know of north of SF, there are virtually no used machinery dealers left up here either.The last real rebuilder in the northwest that I was aware of, Yancey in Portland, went out of business a couple of years ago, and last I heard, they were running $25,000 to $50,000 and up to rebuild MANUAL machinery- that would be rescraping/grinding, refitting bearings, updating motors and electricals, and repainting.Their only business was on machines like the 24" x 120" or so machine that Joe Micheals had them do five years or so ago for the powerplant utility he works for- certainly not on anything as small as a 16" lathe.If there do still exist machinery rebuilders in the midwest or east coast that would undertake a 16" x 48" size range lathe, I cant imagine the cost- plus, of course, in my case, shipping miles or more round trip.Anyway-here is what I look for in a lathe-Mass- there aint no substitute for lots of cast iron. I would want a 16" lathe to weigh at least lbs. The more the better. I want cast iron, not weldments.This would carry thru to a decent sized tailstock, which should, at a minimum, outweigh a harbor freight 9x20 lathe.Horsepower- 5hp is minimum for a 14"-16" lathe, more is better.Speed range- there are lots of ancient boat anchors out there that top out at 600 rpm or so- I used to own a era overhead shaft drive machine like that- and it was very limited in what it could do in modern materials or with modern tooling. I would want a minimum of - rpm top speed.Quick Change thread cutting- this has been a must have since about the 's, in my book. Homey aint changing no gears.A brake. Yup, there are lots of lathes without em. I want one.A modern quick change, commonly available chuck attachment system- I prefer D-1-6, as it is something everybody makes chucks for. NO threaded spindles. Also I would want currently available tapers on the tailstock and spindle, so you could actually buy tooling.A big thru hole in the spindle. Again, you frequently see really really old lathes with tiny thru holes. I use the bigger hole capacity a lot, and I would consider 2" to 3 1/2" a minimum working size for a 16" lathe.Available (hopefully already installed) thru spindle collet holding. Some machines, mostly those with the tiny spindle holes, are a real bear to get a collet system on. I think its a really handy thing, and I want my lathe to have one.Taper attachment- preferably, attached.Decent bearings, electrics, and hardware- in commonly available sizes, replaceable, and not something that requires pouring babbit or uses bicycle hubs for the main spindle.This is harder to see, obviously, although the electricals are usually pretty easy to inspect- and this would be why you go with known manufacturers, like Whacheon, or Mori, Nardini or Romi or Leblonde or Pacemaker or Monarch or Hardinge and so on.In this day and age, I would be considering a DRO and VFD controlled variable speed to be common on better new lathes, and something I would want.

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