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Are you thinking about buying a lathe? One of the first things to determine is what you want to do with it and what kinds of materials you will cut. Are you a hobbyist looking to make some wooden candlestick holders and salad bowls? A benchtop wood lathe might be all you need. However, if you wish to hold greater accuracy or cut metals, a more rugged and versatile machine is in order. If you’re among the latter group of people or just want to know more about precision lathes in general, keep reading.
Lathes are among the oldest of all metalworking machinery. In fact, many refer to them as the mother of machine tools for their ability to make parts for other machines. These include threaded fasteners, shafts, bushings, and much more, including the candlestick holders mentioned earlier. Historians will tell you it was the early Egyptians who invented the first crude lathes, yet it wasn’t until 1800 that they gained thread-cutting capabilities. That invention is attributed to Englishman Henry Maudslay, although others certainly laid the groundwork for his important work.
Henry Maudslay would recognize any of these modern metal-cutting lathes from Kent USA. All have hardened and groundway surfaces that allow the carriage to move longitudinally via a leadscrew. Sitting atop the carriage is a cross slide for axial motion, with a four-sided indexable tool post attached to that. A series of changeable gears power the carriage and give the lathe its screw-cutting capabilities, while a geared headstock provides plenty of power at the rotating spindle. For anyone interested in buying a lathe, these are just a few of the primary functions to keep in mind. The Kent USA MLX-2060T precision lathe is a very good example of a well-equipped modern lathe.
There’s way more to buying a lathe than these basics, however. Let’s start with the price tag. My father used to tell me, “You get what you pay for, son.” He wasn’t necessarily talking about machine tools, but his words remain valid nonetheless. Here’s the thing—if you want an inexpensive lathe, you won’t have to look too far to find one. There are plenty of entry-level machines listed on websites and in catalogs that seem to offer a good bang for the buck. And even though they might be similar in appearance and function as those listed on the Kent USA website, looks can be deceiving (another of my Dad’s many adages), and a year or two of use will prove differently.
John Lennon was writing about Yoko Ono in this classic Beatles’ tune, but he might just as well have been buying a lathe. Consider this: Kent USA’s TRL-1340 Lathe comes in at a hefty 2200 lbs. Compared to a benchtop or bargain brand lathe, it’s a big step up, and yet, it’s the lightest machine in the Kent USA lineup. Who cares? You should. A heavy machine means heavier cuts, greater rigidity, and less vibration. For the longest life and highest precision, always opt for a lathe with a heavy cast iron base, not one constructed made of welded steel.
The headstock and its rotating spindle is the heart of the lathe. It goes without saying that you should look at available horsepower—anything less than 2 HP or so will be inadequate for metal cutting. Also, make certain that the chuck is large enough to grip whatever workpieces you have in mind and that it has a standard Camlock-style or equivalent spindle mount. Beyond that, be sure to ask about the type of bearings used, how many, and how far apart they are. A cheap spindle with low-quality bearings will cause nothing but problems a year or two down the road.
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Swing indicates the maximum diameter workpiece you can turn on a lathe. Measure from the top of the bed to the center of the spindle and then double that value. Similarly, the bed measurement is the maximum length of the workpiece that you can turn. It’s determined by the distance between the spindle face and tailstock. Also, look at the bed width. Wider ones provide greater stability and better results in turning operations. You should consider all of these factors before buying a lathe.
What else separates the good from the not-so-good when buying a lathe? You’ll want a foot brake for stopping the spindle quickly. A geared headstock with multiple speed ranges helps to make sure you have plenty of available power. Hardened and ground ways assure years of productive use. A job button makes gear changes easier. Hobbyists probably won’t care about inch/metric dials, but someone starting a machine shop will. They’ll also care about cutting threads, so make certain your lathe has the right thread-cutting capabilities.
The tool post should make it easy to change and adjust tools. For shaft work and other longish parts, you’ll probably need a steady rest. This is an attachment that bolts to the bed and supports the workpiece while turning. You’ll need a three-jaw and four-jaw chuck, as well as a faceplate, live center, and various Morse taper adapters for the tailstock. How about power? If your shop has 220-volt, three-phase electricity, so much the better. If not, be sure to pick up a phase converter or buy a lathe able to run on a 110-volt single phase. And if you have the cash, a digital readout (DRO) makes lathe operation much easier and less prone to mistakes.
Granted, you’re facing a significant investment right now. Before whipping out your credit card, take a look at the big picture, and determine what will be best for you long term. Yes, a hobbyist or someone just getting started can often get by with a bargain brand machine. As their needs grow, however, this could end up being a mistake. Spending a bit more now on an industrial-quality lathe means better parts and far less hassle. That, and a larger, heavier, more rigid machine typically saves its owner money on repairs and replacement parts in the future. Whatever else you do, be sure to kick plenty of tires, and give us a call to discuss your project.
CNC Precision Teach Lathes Series allows any shop to step up to CNC turning. It’s easy to learn teach-in conversational programming enables machinists of any skill level to produce higher quality parts with lower labor costs. These CNC lathes are perfect for machine shops transitioning to CNC and for machine tool technical schools. Read more about CNC Precision Lathes.
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Robert Dinsmore said: Click to expand...If you want to turn 14 inch bowls, then most likely yes- Unless you get a bandsaw capable of cutting half logs into bowl blanks - For me, I don't have any bandsaw to speak of (just a cheapie 9 inch tabletop skil, which can handle maybe 2-1/2 inch thick blanks) , and biggest blank I have been able to fit on my HF 12 x 336 lathe (12 inch swing) has been 11-1/2 inches and that had to be rounded using chainsaw and an angle grinder with a carving wheel , and even then it was a struggle to get it trued up because the banjo won't quite fit under the blank, so it had to be nibbled away bit by bit until I could fit the banjo and tool rest well enough to get it rounded and outside shape turned... and ended up with a 10-3/4 inch rough-out after all is said and done, which ultimately finished out to a 10-/2 inch bowl , so I figure if I want to do 12 inch bowls then I want a 14 inch swing, but any bigger, and I need a 16 inch swing (and some manufacturers actually account for the banjo clearance in their product details - not many do...) So for me it'll be the Jet 1642 (I really rather get the 1842 for the 230V power input, but that's just a bit too much more than my budget allows for, I don't need the 18 inch swing, and doubt I would EVER utilize a blank that big, if I could even lift it between centers!) However, if your budget is a bit more flexible, and you can forego the 14 - 16 inch bandsaw and instead put the Bandsaw funds into a better lathe, you can add another $1500 or so to your price range, in which case you might find the ONEWAY or Robust may be within shouting distance of your budget? Or at the very least a T40 or T60.
Robert Dinsmore said: Click to expand...That has been my experience while trying to save up funds to plunk down on a new lathe, I read every forum posting like this for the debates and "thinking points" to consider - and for me, knowing what I enjoy turning, and what I am physically capable of, I know I'd never (without any doubt at all) turn anything bigger than 14 inch (even that very rarely, but 13 inch may come into play, plus maybe some coring later on, which is why I also wanted to get the 1842 - 230V / more powerful) - But as has been mentioned many times, each turner has to figure out their own limitations and goals.. and then figure out what lathe can meet those goals..
If you want to turn 14 inch bowls, then most likely yes- Unless you get a bandsaw capable of cutting half logs into bowl blanks - For me, I don't have any bandsaw to speak of (just a cheapie 9 inch tabletop skil, which can handle maybe 2-1/2 inch thick blanks) , and biggest blank I have been able to fit on my HF 12 x 336 lathe (12 inch swing) has been 11-1/2 inches and that had to be rounded using chainsaw and an angle grinder with a carving wheel , and even then it was a struggle to get it trued up because the banjo won't quite fit under the blank, so it had to be nibbled away bit by bit until I could fit the banjo and tool rest well enough to get it rounded and outside shape turned... and ended up with a 10-3/4 inch rough-out after all is said and done, which ultimately finished out to a 10-/2 inch bowl , so I figure if I want to do 12 inch bowls then I want a 14 inch swing, but any bigger, and I need a 16 inch swing (and some manufacturers actually account for the banjo clearance in their product details - not many do...) So for me it'll be the Jet 1642 (I really rather get the 1842 for the 230V power input, but that's just a bit too much more than my budget allows for, I don't need the 18 inch swing, and doubt I would EVER utilize a blank that big, if I could even lift it between centers!) However, if your budget is a bit more flexible, and you can forego the 14 - 16 inch bandsaw and instead put the Bandsaw funds into a better lathe, you can add another $1500 or so to your price range, in which case you might find the ONEWAY or Robust may be within shouting distance of your budget? Or at the very least a T40 or T60.That has been my experience while trying to save up funds to plunk down on a new lathe, I read every forum posting like this for the debates and "thinking points" to consider - and for me, knowing what I enjoy turning, and what I am physically capable of, I know I'd never (without any doubt at all) turn anything bigger than 14 inch (even that very rarely, but 13 inch may come into play, plus maybe some coring later on, which is why I also wanted to get the 1842 - 230V / more powerful) - But as has been mentioned many times, each turner has to figure out their own limitations and goals.. and then figure out what lathe can meet those goals..On the flip side, as a beginner, if you are not sure you'd truly be happy for the next several years (or longer) doing turning (for some, the learning curve to make beautiful work they see in these forums gallery may be too steep or just too slow, and they give up..) , then your best bet would be to actually get into a wood turning club if there was one within reasonable visiting time (Even if it is just one visit every few months, or once a year) you could call ahead to a member and arrange a bit of mentoring time (if they have a lathe available or member closer to you that would be willing) and that'd give you a much better idea if it was something you'd want to plop the money into (And if you really LOVE it like I do, maybe consider boosting your budget even if it means saving up a while longer) But failing that opportunity, and that certainty, You might also consider a benchtop mini lathe (many come in a 12 inch swing for under a grand) - you could learn and practice on that , and if you find yourself getting a full size lathe, and more experience, etc, you could even end up taking the mini lathe with you in a van and do craft shows, etc..... Plus you wouldn't be trying a huge 14 inch bowl right off the bat (Which even after several small bowls, my first "big" 10 inch bowl was a heart-pounding challenge!)But if you are 100% sure that is what you want to do, and you know for sure that you'll want that 14 inch bowl size, then yes a 16 inch swing should be the lathe to look for.
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