The point is that you still should practice safe winching techniques, even if "sometimes" there is no snapback.
No doubt they are much better in a brake, but you can get hurt.
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http://www.AtlanticBraids.com A strength comparison between Dyneema fiber rope and steel rope.
Remember we arewhere the danger really is. Many times, one is cut under very little tension like a free-wheeling pull or a pull assist. There certainly are cases where lines do break and don't seem to fly back, but it is 100% a myth thatRonny Dahl: Jump to 15 minutes:From Factor 55 a repetable recovery parts suppler:From the poster above:I'm not sure if there was a defect in the rope. It was new. Or, if the winch just over powered the rope. After this, I always carry the Factor 55 splicing tool that you did a review of on your channel. When I go to very remote places, I even carry an extra winch line and make sure to use a pulley for mechanical advantage when I can.
Interesting video. I usually speed up those type of videos by 25 or even 50% but that one was fast at regular speed and thats good.
Things I personally find important on a winch:
- Synthetic rope. Most models are available with synthetic and cost more than the same winch with steel cable. It is much safer and easier to handle. If you are frequently in the rocks dragging your line over rough edges steel might be better but for the rest of us synthetic is the way to go.
- Wireless remote. Lets you get on any side or in the cab without hauling the wire around.
- Wired remote. Wireless is useless if your remote battery is dead.
- Clean looking package. Its nice to not have all those heavy wires and lugs they attach to some models have.
- Warranty.
Notes
- Many 10k/12k winches of the same brand are the same except for rating and gear ratio.
- I dont need a fast pull.
- Pulling power can almost be doubled and speed almost be halved with the use of a snatch block.
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