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There’s a lot of jeweler’s jargon for gold — terms such as gold-plated, gold-filled, and solid gold can be confusing, even when you read the fine print. You might’ve also seen the word vermeil (pronounced ver-may) and wondered whether it’s the real deal.
The difference between gold-plated, gold-filled, vermeil, and solid-gold jewelry comes down to how much gold you’re actually getting. From least to most, it goes: gold plated, vermeil, gold filled, and solid gold. In general, more gold means a higher price — so gold plated will usually be the cheapest, while solid gold is the most expensive. But the purity of the gold itself matters, too, and that’s another factor in the cost. The golden rule when shopping for gold jewelry is: If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is.
Gold — whether it’s used in gold-plated, gold-filled, vermeil, or solid-gold jewelry — is measured in karats (not to be confused with carats, the weight of a diamond). The number of karats marks how “pure” it is, on a scale starting at 9k and ending at 24k, the “purest” form. The higher the number, the softer the gold. So even though 24k is the literal gold standard, you won’t actually see much of it used in fine jewelry because it’s easy to scratch. “You know how in some old-timey movies about gold prospecting, people would bite a gold nugget to test if it’s real? That’s because pure gold is super bendy,” says antiques dealer Erica Weiner.
To make gold stronger, it is alloyed, meaning it is mixed with other metals like copper, silver, nickel, and zinc. The percentage of pure gold in the resulting metal determines the number of karats, explains Lisa Salzer of Lulu Frost: 9k gold contains 37.5 percent pure gold, 10k contains 41.7 percent, and so on until 24k, which is 100 percent pure gold.
There aren’t any actual purity standards for gold-plated, vermeil, gold-filled, or solid-gold jewelry — the Federal Trade Commission’s consumer guidelines mention that gold-filled pieces should use at least 10k gold, but that’s about it — so you might see everything from “14k gold plated” to “22k solid gold” on the market. Keep an eye out for hallmarks like “18k” or “10k” stamped inside a ring or on the back of a charm, as a sign of what you’re getting. Just know that there are no laws on the books for how to go about properly stamping, so it can be a “little Wild West,” Weiner warns.
Gold plating involves putting a very thin layer of gold over another metal, usually brass. How thin are we talking? With jewelry, we’re dealing with microns. For comparison’s sake, the standard sheet of paper is 100 microns thick, while a piece that’s gold plated can have just 1 micron’s worth of gold on top.
“Better gold-plated jewelry will have a thicker plating of gold,” says Salzer, adding that the highest quality gold plating can use 3 to 5 microns. But you really won’t know that, as most makers don’t say how thick their gold plating is. Even the number of karats might be missing. Essentially, “Gold plated is the crappiest quality of ‘gold’ jewelry,” Weiner says. You’re always taking a gamble with gold-plated pieces: They can stay shiny for years, or the gold might wear away fairly quickly, showing the duller, darker base below. Once that happens, according to Weiner, you could wind up with green skin or irritation if the base metal isn’t hypoallergenic.
The difference between gold-plated and gold-filled jewelry is that gold filled has a thicker layer of gold, with a stronger bond between the gold and the base metal thanks to a production process that includes heat and pressure. This bond with the base means the finish is less prone to tarnishing, making gold filled more of a dupe for solid gold in that sense. But, “It’s still not a lot of gold,” Weiner says.
To be called vermeil, there has to be genuine sterling silver underneath a coating of gold. (The old-fashioned name for it is silver-gilt.) Vermeil is often seen as “demi-fine” because it’s more affordable than “fine” solid gold, but the silver base is a step up from the “garbage metals” used in the base of gold-plated and gold-filled jewelry, Weiner explains.
And while the gold layer on vermeil might actually be thinner than on a gold-plated piece — 2.5 microns is the standard — there are more precious metals throughout, giving it a better value. Depending on the purity of the gold, you can often buy gold vermeil pieces for under $200 (Mejuri makes many of its pieces from 18k vermeil, as does Monica Vinader, and both brands’ prices range from under $100 to close to $200). Vermeil is also going to be “gold-looking” for longer, even through heavier wear, Weiner says. That’s not to say you won’t ever wear it down; as with gold plated and gold filled, exposure to water, body oils, and beauty products can make vermeil lose some of its shine.
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Solid-gold jewelry is the stuff of heirlooms. By definition, it can’t be hollow, so it has “a nicer, richer, heavier feeling,” Weiner says. But most jewelry that’s labeled solid gold will still be mixed with other metals. A lot of the solid gold on the market is made of 14k solid gold, which is close the middle of the karat scale and contains almost 60 percent pure gold. Brands such as Catbird, Mociun, and Kinn are all known for their 14k-gold pieces. It’s stronger and more durable than 14k-gold plating, gold filled, or vermeil. “It does everything you want gold to do,” Weiner says. It’s an investment for sure, but also your best bet if you want your gold to last a lifetime (and maybe even longer).
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They say diamonds are a girl’s best friend but for ages gold has been the ultimate symbol of elegance and beauty for both men and women alike. It is therefore important to be aware when purchasing gold jewelry the various terminology that is commonly used. The most popular terms used are solid gold, gold filled, and gold plated when describing pieces of gold jewelry. Solid gold is the most expensive and the highest in quality and purity. Then is ranked gold filled as it allows for a cheaper but still valuable alternative to solid gold. Gold plated, however significantly cheaper than solid gold, allows for quality gold appearing jewelry to me more affordable and accessible to the greater public.
Solid gold jewelry is the highest in price and purity. Solid gold’s value comes from its radiant color and shine. It is also highly valued because it doesn’t tarnish or fade with time. But it is interesting to note that solid gold may not always be the best option when shopping for your desired gold accessory. The downside of pure solid gold is that is a very malleable and soft and is therefore not recommended for jewelry intended for everyday wear.
Often gold is made into an alloy by mixing it with other metals in order to create a stronger metal than pure gold. These alloys are often cheaper than pure gold as the carat (the measure of the purity of the gold) decreases. However, these alloys retain the desirable properties that jewelry wearers desire of pure solid gold- its shine, color, and inability to tarnish- all while creating a more practical metal for jewelry.
When purchasing jewelry a more economical than solid gold but still beautiful option is a gold filled piece. Jewelers create gold filled jewelry by pressure bonding an actual layer of gold to another metal. Although a gold filled piece of jewelry is not sold gold, it has the same desirable properties and look of solid gold.
It won’t tarnish and will not rub off or turn colors. Wearers who are sensitive to certain metals can wear gold filled without worries of an allergic reaction. Although the layer of gold in gold filled pieces varies depending on the manufacturer it is in all cases significantly thicker than regular gold plating (the next category of gold jewelry). Gold filled accessories can be worn even daily without fear of fading or rubbing off for many cases as long as 30 years.
Gold Plated jewelry is the best option for wearers who are jewelry obsessed but need to stay in a budget (pretty much everyone out there). It gives the impression of luxury while not causing you to break the bank every time you see a cute, trendy necklace or bracelet. Gold plated jewelry is made by using electricity or chemicals to deposit and bond a very thin layer of gold over another metal. This process creates a layer as thin as 1/1000 to 3/1000 of an inch of gold over a more affordable metal, usually silver or copper.
The downside of gold plating is that the gold layer fades and tarnishes over time. The reason being that molecules of the base metals slowly transfer into the thin layer of gold causing it to break down. For tips on how to prolong the life of your gold plated jewelry check out our handy tip “Tips On Caring For Your Gold Plated Jewlery.”
When debating over whether to purchase solid gold, gold filled, or gold plated several factors should be taken into consideration. Solid gold, even gold alloys, despite their higher price tags are great for romantic gifts for a truly special someone. It also makes for a great investment as solid gold retains its value and forever will hold its allure in the world of jewelry. Gold filled, although not as valuable as solid gold, is still a great option for gift giving and accessories you love. You shouldn't discredit gold plated jewelry. It allows you to dress up with all the latest, hottest jewelry trends without causing you to stress out too much about the cost. Looking like a million bucks doesn't always have to cost it. Just don’t be shocked when your most beloved gold plated piece you wear every day starts to lose its sheen. Gold plated pieces still make the perfect present for a friend or someone you care about.
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