The chamber is loaded from the front and contains a Hot Zone with a 3.0″ diameter x 6.0″ high usable zone and +/- 10°C temperature gradient. The heating element is a 1/2- 1/2 split design allowing the die body to be inserted straight into the zone. The furnace chamber is manufactured from double-walled stainless steel welded together and polished for a clean finish and good vacuum integrity.
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The hot zone assembly can be one of three choices: a graphite band element and rigid fibrous graphite insulation pack, a Moly-D rod element and ceramic insulation pack, or a high temperature metal mesh heating element and layered metal shielding. In the hot press configuration the maximum operating temperature is °C (°C with a ceramic zone). With the end plug shields supplied to plug the top and bottom hot rod openings, the furnace can be used as a batch/sintering furnace with operation temperatures to °C.
The Post and Platen Press Frame with load train is designed and manufactured to withstand well over 10 tons of force. This Post & Platen Frame is fully adjustable in all directions. Unlike the standard welded “H” frame, this MRF design supports the chamber totally free of the load train and is fully adjustable. The support includes, four (4) independent post clamp collars, a top platen supporting the top-mounted hydraulic cylinder, bottom platen supporting the lower dead rod, and adjustment bolts for the clamp collars and cylinder flange. The load train includes water-cooled stainless steel top and bottom cold rods, and high-strength top and bottom hot rods. The top rod has a 4.0″ stroke and the top cold rod is sealed by a static o-ring on a bellows assembly to provide a vacuum seal.
The Servo Hydraulic and Pressure Control System includes a 4.0″ stroke hydraulic cylinder, a hydraulic power unit, a pressure gauge to monitor hydraulic fluid pressure, and a load cell to measure and control press force. The pump size and servo valve are sized to allow a high cylinder speed for initial positioning, loading and unloading. Cylinder positional accuracy is 0.001″ and press force accuracy is 1 lb. Manual jog buttons are included on the PC to allow for manual control of the top ram for loading and unloading a specimen.
Power to the hot zone is supplied by a three-phase SCR-controlled power supply, including a circuit breaker, a contactor, an SCR to modulate the power to the hot zone, and a step-down transformer matched to meet the heating element resistance. Volt and Amp Meters allow visual observation of power usage, and a set of water-cooled power cables supplies power to the furnace.
Temperature and press control is accomplished either with classic instruments and push buttons, or by means of a Programmable Logic Controller (PLC) and Industrial Computer with HMI. The PLC is used to control temperature, force (to 1 lb accurate) or displacement (travel to 0.001″ accurate), and other system components such as vacuum and gas. The press force and temperature control programs can be synchronized. Since the PLC reads and controls travel, temperature, and press force, other instruments can be eliminated thus simplifying operation and configuration.
The controller interfaces with the PC and transmits the temperature, power, force, travel, vacuum and force readings. This instrument also controls all digital logic required to control the solenoid valves, motor starters, interlocks, hydraulic system and vacuum system. The HMI system logs data, displays graphs, alarms, and provides an intuitive easy-to-use graphical interface for full furnace control.
A type “C” sheathed and coated thermocouple is supplied and can be used to measure the furnace temperature up to °C. When operating the furnace to temperatures above °C, control is automatically switched over to a Pyrometer.
The evacuation system consists of a Rotary Vane mechanical pump, an electro-pneumatic vacuum valve, vacuum gauge controller and vacuum gauge. This vacuum system will allow for operation in a vacuum environment (10-2 Torr range). A 4″ or 6″ diffusion pumping system or a turbo pumping system can be provided as well and can achieve vacuum levels down to 10-6 (diffusion pumping system) and 10-7 Torr range (turbo pumping system). A manual valve is provided for leak checking or air releasing the roughing line.
The gas system is supplied to provide an inert environment for the work samples during the heating and pressing. The process gas system (Argon) includes a solenoid-operated inlet valve, a compound gauge (30 P.S.I.G. x 30 in. Hg.), a gas flow meter, and a 2 P.S.I.G. outlet relief valve to maintain a positive pressure. There is also a 5 P.S.I.G. over-pressure safety relief valve.
The furnace water cooling manifold consists of multiple circuits to adequately cool all the furnace parts and includes a strainer, pressure regulator, pressure gauge, water inlet and outlet manifold, a water flow switch as a visual water flow indicator with a flow interlock to protect the furnace in the event of a water flow failure. This switch turns off power to the hot zone if water flow is below recommended minimum for a certain amount of time. Each part of the furnace is supplied with a separate cooling circuit that can be regulated by independent manual ball valves.
Cooler temperatures aren't here yet, but it's worth researching ahead of time if you're in need of a furnace upgrade. Fortunately, the market these days is flooded with options. To pick the right one for your home and needs, you need to know what you're looking at. Whether you're just researching or looking to make a purchase, we can help you get acquainted with the different types of furnaces, the installation processes and the heating experience through our guide below.
There are four different types of furnace currently on the market:
Each type of furnace heats the air a little differently and has a different operating cost.
Electric furnaces are often the cheapest of the four to purchase and are easier to install and maintain. However, because they run solely on electricity, they can be quite expensive to operate.
Think of an electric furnace as you would a hair dryer or toaster. The furnace pulls cold air into an exchanger where it is then heated over electric heating elements. Once heated, the warm air is pushed into your home via ductwork.
Even though an electric furnace costs more to operate, the plus side is that it doesn't produce any carbon monoxide -- making it safer for the environment and your family's health.
If you live near a natural gas line, a natural gas furnace can be more affordable to operate than an electric furnace -- especially if there is already a natural gas line running to your home.
A natural gas furnace works by igniting natural gas inside of your furnace's burner. The flames heat up a metal heat exchanger, which in turns heats incoming cold air received from your home's ductwork. The warm air is then pushed into your home by a blower via its ductwork.
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Natural gas furnaces require a flue for the exhaust to exit your home. The flue pipe will need to be inspected at least once a year to prevent poisonous gasses from entering your home.
A gas furnace costs more to purchase than an electric furnace, but because it uses natural gas as opposed to electricity, it is less expensive to operate. It is also more powerful than an electric furnace because it is able to heat the air within the heat exchange chamber more quickly.
Oil furnaces work much the same way as a natural gas furnace. Once activated, the furnace draws oil from the tank into a burning chamber. Instead of being directly lit, however, it is first converted into a mist and then sprayed onto a burner. Once ignited, air is pulled into a chamber near the burner where it is heated and sent back into the home through the ductwork.
Oil burns at a hotter temperature than natural gas, which means it heats up homes faster. However, keep in mind that oil furnaces require an oil tank, which are often buried near homes.
Propane furnaces also operate much the same way as a natural gas furnace, except they do not require a flue. It's possible, instead, to simply install a direct vent beside it on an exterior wall. This eliminates the need to have a flue regularly inspected and cleaned.
However, even though it is similar to natural gas, propane furnaces are more efficient. The result is that you don't have to burn as much propane to get the same amount of warmth you'd get with a natural gas furnace.
In addition to choosing between different fuel sources, you also need to consider how many stages you want your furnace to have. There are currently three options on the market.
A single stage thermostat is more affordable, while a modulating furnace is the most expensive. To choose, consider your budget and needs. Smaller, single-story homes don't require as much heating power as larger, multistory homes. If your home is somewhere in the middle, then a multistage heat furnace may be the perfect fit for you.
AFUE stands for annualized fuel utilization efficiency. An AFUE rating reflects how much heat is produced for every dollar spent. The higher AFUE rating a furnace has, the lower the amount the homeowner should spend on fuel.
Ideally, you want a furnace with an AFUE rating in the '90s because these are the most fuel efficient furnaces. However, just be aware that furnaces with this high of an AFUE rating are usually some of the most expensive.
A midrange, new furnace costs between $1,500-$6,000 (for example, a Rheem furnace, which has an 80% AFUE rating, costs $1,488 plus installation). Opt for a high-end model with a higher AFUE rating and the cost may jump up to $10,000.
Next you need to consider the cost of installation, which should be around $2,000 without any discounts.
Because it is such a large investment, consider the cost of fuel and operating costs, too, before you decide. This is especially important if you plan on financing the purchase and will have monthly payments (but you could always offset your energy costs with some new solar panels).
Your furnace needs ductwork to transfer heat into your home. If you live in a newer home, your home's ductwork is likely already well taken care of. However, you will still want to have a licensed HVAC technician come to your home and test your home's ductwork system. It may or may not be able to handle a furnace with greater blowing power.
If you have been having issues with an older furnace, it's possible your ductwork may be to blame. The technician will be able to tell you if the ductwork was properly installed, or if there are any leaks or blockages. If there are any damages to your ductwork, it's unlikely you will need to get the entire system replaced. Instead, you may be able to get by with just replacing the damaged portions.
Chimneys aren't just for fireplaces. They can also dispel gasses from a hot water heater or furnace. If you purchase a high efficiency furnace, it's possible you won't even need a chimney at all. However, if not, you'll want to get your chimney inspected before getting your new furnace installed. Thereafter, you will need to get it cleaned once a year.
We're not referring to the air registers in each of your rooms that you can open or close. Instead, we're referring to the vents that direct flue gases to the outside of your home. If you change the type of furnace you use, you may need to replace your vents. Propane, oil and natural gas all burn a little differently, so the material used in your outdoor vents may not be strong enough to handle new temperatures.
Furnaces dry out the air in a house, which isn't a good thing during the cold and flu season. Sinus infections can result from breathing too much dry air. To combat this, many homeowners opt to install furnace humidifiers. The cost of a furnace humidifier varies a lot depending on which make and model you choose. You can spend as little as $200 to as much as $1,600. Putting a single humidifier in each room is also a valid option.
The best thing you can do for yourself is to have a licensed HVAC technician come out to your home. Once there, they can address your concerns about your old heating system, as well as give you their professional opinion about the best type of furnace for your home. While there, you may also want to speak to them about your cooling system, too. Window units are often the best choice, but sometimes there is room for an upgrade.
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