There are a number of things to consider when looking to purchase a graphite crucible or a crucible furnace for your manufacturing operations.Graphite crucible and silicon carbide crucible with best price and high quality furnace These products are used for a number of processes in a variety of industries. You have to understand that they come in different sizes depending on what you will use them for. Here are some tips to help you make the best choice.
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Look for high quality material - The graphite crucible that you will buy should be made from high quality graphite, not low quality carbide. This is because the high quality material will hold up much better to the elements. It also helps to find a graphite crucible that has a high density, which will allow it to be thinner and easier to work with.
The higher density graphite crucibles furnace will also make it easier to cut into and harder to blow up. These two factors alone will increase the price, but it will also improve the quality of the product. Some manufacturers will do a special process that allows them to produce thinner graphite crucibles. They will then use this thinner material to make more expensive products.
Find the best blanks - Finding high quality blanks for your crucible will make it even easier to create the best products. These blanks must be made out of material that is pure and free of contaminants. This includes graphite that is sourced from natural sources and not from mines. Look for places that can offer you high purity graphite. It will make all the difference in the world in the end.
Find the best manufacturer - When you find a high-quality manufacturer, it gives you the assurance that you are buying a great product. They will have a good reputation and be able to provide you with a warranty. Look for a manufacturer that is willing to work with you and make the best possible deal for you. A good company will have the ability to customize anything that you need in the shape of a cube or a bar. You might also be able to add features at a reasonable price.
There are many things to consider when looking for a graphite crucible. Make sure that you take your time and do a lot of research before deciding on anything. This is a very important purchase, so only make the best decision. This will ensure that you will always get your graphite crucible with the best price and features.
Hi all
I'm new here and i'm just starting out doing as a hobby at the moment but also getting in to metal melting as as a plumber i have a lot of scrap copper brass and iron that a bugger to store unless i melt it down but my question is is all about the Crucibles.
i have notices theirs two types
Graphite and ceramic
for what i'm melting to be reformed what is best?
i'm a tad bit lost also going on a whim here and hoping that you all know about this
thanks
Ashley
I second Gary on the zinc fumes. Nasty stuff.
As for crucibles, clay-graphite are the cheapest and work okay once you get used to them. They must be "tempered" before use, which means put in a cold furnace and then slowly raising the temperature to your planned maximum, holding for an hour, and shutting down the furnace leaving the crucible in place until cold. They are somewhat fragile, so properly fitting crucible tongs are a must.
Pure graphite is the most expensive, doesn't need tempering before use, and is the sturdiest. It will be hard to find a pure graphite crucible big enough for your wants at a price that's affordable.
That leaves silicon carbide. They cost twice as much as clay-graphite, but don't require the tempering step and are less fragile.
What sort of stuff are you wanting to make?
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Gary i'm sporting one of the bad boys https://www.protectivemasksdirect.co.uk/moldex-reusable-half-mask-respirator-protection-moldex-?gclid=CjwKCAiA6qPRBRAkEiwAGw4SdgCq5-DiG9XGZzxUax8_GRjQNtxOWTctpylCil1S-zKU_XI80SzrnRoCfvIQAvD_BwE as i'm in roof spaces a lot and the chemical cartridge are £10 a pop and are a 4 week life span so i'm all good.
Alan just to start i'm going to melt down copper to get it clean then into ingot to store then the iron may just tinker and see what i can do with it. I have steal thredded bar i may try and make into knife of some sort in the Christmas shut down at work. May also look at casting iron fittings and aluminium
unless there a section for what to make first to text page i have mist would also be interested i would in?
Well, there's a couple of "how to get started" posts here and there, but no real "what to make first" section. We kind of leave that up to the person involved.
One thing about pure copper: it LOVES oxygen. I mean, to the point that in an open crucible it turns almost foamy with holes. Standard practice if you don't have an inert gas shielded vacuum furnace (no, I don't know anyone who does either ) is to use a lidded crucible and/or a heavy layer of powdered charcoal on top of the charge in the crucible to keep out the oxygen.
Hopefully Jeroen will see this and chime in, he's a very experienced caster of copper and bronze. I just do pewter, which is a lot more user-friendly.
Oh, and don't use the same crucible for a different alloy. In other words, if you do the iron, use a new crucible, not one that's had copper in it. And vice-versa.
What's your heat source situation?
I'm using MAPP gas as my main heat would adding borax to the copper not work the same way?
also making a small refractory out of an old expansion vessel from work as it is a good fit for what i want just need cutting and a few legs adding
and thanks didn't know i would need different crucibles for different metal
I can confirm that the silicon carbide crucibles are the sturdiest. They can last hundreds, if not thousands of castings. Just don't cool down the metal inside the crucible, but poor it out in ingot moulds. Some people use baking trays, then find out why experienced people use more proper ingot moulds (hot copper or copper alloy dissolves steel).
If you do have a proper way to protect yourself from breathing in zinc, lead and other nasty fumes, then if you want to melt and cast brass, you must be careful not to overheat it. Same goes for copper b.t.w. If it's liquid, poor, don't leave it molten for long. In general, the longer you heat it, the more gasses it will absorb. But with brass, it will turn into some sticky dross, that seems to appear faster then you can scoop it out. And you get a bright white flame, yellow zinc oxide deposits everywhere.
There's not a lot you can do for copper to take up oxygen, except to keep the environment as oxygen free as possible. Like Alan suggests, let charcoal float on top, and keep a lid on it. And keep you furnace environment reducing. I've heard from professional casters that borax doesn't help much in shielding copper. Don't know why though. Probably won't hurt adding it.
Mapp gas burns at C copper melts at C i have 2 torches so going to make 2 inlets for the burners one on each side so in theory that should do it and i'm doing in in a 4 inch crucible just got with 1 inch clearance on each side so not a lot of air to heat around the crucible im using fire cement that going to be 2 inch think and then ceramic fibre around the out side of that so hopefully will do it if not off to the yard and grabbing the big acetylene torch
Edited December 7, by Ash10 hours ago, Gary Mulkey said:This isn't an answer to your question but unless you have the appropriate breathing apparatus, don't try melting any brass. The fumes from the molten zinc in it can be lethal.
10 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:I second Gary on the zinc fumes. Nasty stuff.
Slightly off topic, but this popped into my head when I was looking at the responses. So never made any Mokume Gane, so got to ask, when working on Mokume Gane is this a concern, as well???
I have a real heavy Brass threshold that came out of an old New Orleans style mansion. I have used a piece or two over the years but have thought about cutting up and melting some of it the making of Mokume Gane.
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