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Welshie,First off, a flux core welder is NOT a MIG welder.MIG (technically GMAW for Gas-shielded Metal Arc Welding) uses a solid wire electrode and a cylinder of shielding gas to shield and protect the arc and the molten metal from the air until the metal solidifies.Flux core welding (technically FCAW for Flux Core Arc Welding) uses a tubular wire electrode that is filled with flux powder. Pretty much like a stick electrode (which is technically SMAW for Shielded Metal Arc Welding) turned inside out. FCAW can be self shielded (FCAW-S where the flux provides the shielding of the molten weld metal) or it can also use a shielding gas (FCAW-G where the shielding gas also provides shielding as well as the flux providing some shielding and/or some arc and/or weld puddle effects).There is a variant of GMAW call MCAW (Metal Cored Arc Welding) that uses shielding gas but where the wire electrode is a tubular wire filled with (no surprise) a metal powder blend.Small home-use machines will usually be of the GMAW or FCAW-S types. Bigger 'industrial' type machines are typically needed to run MCAW or FCAW-G wires.Enough quick background, on to your specific questions (both asked and not specifically asked) ...IMNSHO, skip getting an FCAW-only machine.FCAW is certainly a 'good' welding process for some applications. But because of some arc physics, FCAW runs 'hotter' compared to similarly sized solid wire GMAW. Which is not so good for welding on thin sheet metal (like on a car). It is also a little bit of a dirtier welding process than GMAW, with typically more weld spatter and slag residue to clean up after welding before you can paint or otherwise finish the pieces.GMAW with C25 shielding gas (a gas blend of 25% CO2 and 75 % argon, one of if not THE typical short-circuit transfer mode GMAW shielding gas mixes) and solid wire is the typical go-to for GMAW aka 'MIG' on thin steel sheet metal.If you buy at least a semi decent MIG welder, those will usually let you weld using GMAW (solid wire electrode with shielding gas) or FCAW-S (fluxcore wire electrode with no shielding gas) just by switching the wire electrode you use and then also switching the (+) and (-) wiring to the wire electrode (on the 'gun' or torch) and the 'ground' clamp.You can get small machines that can do GMAW and FCAW while running on 120V power. Like the mentioned 140-class machines. Lincoln, Miller, Hobart, ESAB are the four big brand names, there are other brands that are good/decent as well. And there are also not-so-good brands and machines.There are also machines that can run on either 120V or 240V input power. If you got one of those type machines, you could run it on your existing 120V outlet and when (notice I said "when" and not 'if') you outgrow the power output limitations from using 120V power, you can then figure out a way (have a 240V outlet put in the garage, run a 240V extension cord from an electric dryer outlet to connect to the welder, etc) to run the machine on 240V input power for more available output power.Your budget of $200 is pretty limiting.You still NEED the wire electrode (btw, FCAW wire spools are MUCH more expensive than solid wire electrode spools, just talking the common mild steel electrode variants like Lincoln NR211-MP FCAW wire and Lincoln L-56 GMAW solid wire), and welding gloves, and a welding helmet.Even the HF web page for the FCAW machine 'suggests' getting a spool of wire, a welding helmet, and some gloves. Which comes out at ~$400, all right from HF.You will want some angle grinder(s) with wire wheels and flap disks and grinding wheels and maybe some cut-off disks, instead of cutting things with a hack saw and trying to clean them up with a hand powered wire brush. Even a low-end HF angle grinder beats trying to clean up metal or welds by hand (10k+ rpm versus hand power). A welding jacket to protect yourself. Some sort of surface to weld on instead of crouching on the ground all the time (BTDT) is very nice to have (HF portable welding table is actually pretty good as a light weight light-duty welding table, on sale it's usually less than $100).I would not buy either of your mentioned FCAW-only machines. Mostly because they are FCAW-only.Get a used or new Lincoln 140 or similar. Then you have the choice of GMAW (solid wire and shielding gas) or FCAW (flux core wire and no shielding gas). And you will not be fighting the machine limitations and/or quirks as much as you are trying to learn and weld.Even the HF Titanium MIG 140 would be better than the FCAW-only machine(s). Try to get it 'on sale' or with a coupon and the price should come down near $400, give or take. Check https://www.hfqpdb.com/ in case you didn't know about that site, it lists all current/recent/recently-expired HF coupons. Or do the HF promo 'club' or card and get 10-20% off that way.
MIG welding and flux-cored welding possess different characteristics that welders must evaluate when selecting which process to use. To achieve the best results, consider the following factors: thickness of the material, proper shielding gas, wire feed speed and voltage settings, location of the jobsite, and weld appearance.
There is no one-size-fits-all welding solution, and all of the above variables will affect wire selection. This article will help the novice or occasional welders understand the basics of solid and flux-cored wire and how to maximize their advantages.
MIG power sources use a continuous solid wire electrode for filler metal and require a shielding gas delivered from a pressurized gas bottle. Mild steel solid wires are usually plated with copper to prevent oxidation, aid in electrical conductivity and help increase the life of the welding contact tip. The shielding gas protects the molten weld pool from contaminants present in the surrounding atmosphere. The most common shielding gas combination is 75% argon and 25% carbon dioxide. While welding outdoors, welders should use caution and prevent wind from blowing the shielding gas coverage away from the arc. Windshields may need to be used.
There are two types of flux-cored wires ' gas shielded and self shielded. Gas-shielded flux-cored wires require external shielding gas, and the slag is easy to remove. Consider using gas-shielded flux-cored wires when welding on thicker metals or in out-of-position applications. Gas-shielded flux-cored wires have a flux coating that solidifies more quickly than the molten weld material. As a result, it creates a shelf to hold the molten pool when welding overhead or vertically up. Self-shielding flux-cored wire does not require external shielding gas because the weld pool is protected by gas generated when flux from the wire is burned. As a result, self-shielding flux-cored wire is more portable because it does not require an external gas tank.
Many welders believe that weld appearance is an important factor. When working on materials less than 3/16-inch thick down to thin sheet metal (24 gauge), solid wire will produce a clean looking weld. For example, a short-circuit transfer with .030-inch solid wire set at 18-19 volts with 160-170 amps and using 75% argon and 25% carbon dioxide shielding gas will usually produce little spatter, create a smaller heat-affected area and reduce chances of burn-through. As a result, many automotive enthusiasts who specialize in bodywork or those who work with thinner applications prefer solid wire.
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The welder must also consider the location of the jobsite when choosing between solid and flux-cored wire. In environments such as windy locations, solid wire or gas-shielded flux-cored wire are more difficult to use because exposing the shielding gas to wind can compromise the weld integrity. Typically, the loss of shielding gas will produce porosity visible in the weld bead.
On the other hand, self-shielded flux-cored wire is ideal for welding outdoors or in windy conditions. The welder does not have to set up windshields to protect the shielding gases because the shielding gas is generated from the burning flux. Since self-shielded flux-cored wire does not require external shielding gas, it is also more portable than solid wire. This portability is ideal in agricultural applications where field equipment can break down far from the shop. If you are welding thicker metals (16 gauge and above), self-shielded flux-cored wire also provides excellent penetration.
Many novice welders attempt to use a one-size-fits-all wire and shielding gas combination for multiple applications. The most common wire and gas combinations (for solid wire) are .035-inch- diameter wire used with a 75% argon and 25% carbon dioxide shielding gas. When welding thicker material, however, consider the welding power source output, as well as welding wire diameter. If using a .035-inch wire for thicker materials, and the power source is plugged into a 115-volt circuit, the resulting amperage output may not be sufficient to make quality welds. This increases the risk of cold lap or lack of fusion.
Attempting to use too small of a solid wire for thicker applications (such as on A-frames of an automobile) increases the chance of lower penetration in the root and could require more than one welding pass. Misapplication of the solid wire (even though strong enough) may also not provide adequate penetration on thicker material.
Although more expensive than solid wire, flux-cored wire could help you gain productivity. Flux-cored wire typically has the ability to weld dirtier materials that may have higher levels of rust, mill scale or oil. Although cleaning is always the proper method of preparing the steel, flux-cored wires contain de-oxidizing elements that trap these contaminants in the weld pool and hold them in the slag coverage, typically preventing the associated weld problems found when welding dirtier steels. When compared to solid wire, flux-cored wire also increases penetration on the sidewalls and offers the advantage of better deposition rates (the amount of weld metal deposited in a given time period, measured in pounds per hour). Although the welder is initially spending more for flux-cored wire, the savings are realized in the decreased production time.
Neither wire is superior to the other. They simply have different properties that work better on certain applications. As far as performance is concerned, both wire types produce sound welds with good weld bead appearances when applied correctly and used within the proper parameter settings. Solid wire provides deep penetration in the root and usually has little spatter. Flux-cored wire has a larger ball-type transfer and produces low spatter levels. In addition, flux-cored wire produces a rounder penetration profile with excellent sidewall fusion.
As far as user appeal, both solid wire and flux-cored wire are relatively easy to use. This makes them ideal for novice and occasional welders working in automotive, farming and home hobby applications. Welders may prefer solid wire on thinner applications because there is no slag to remove, it is ready to paint and the weld beads may be more aesthetically pleasing.
Most important, remember not to fall into the one-size-fits-all mindset. Solid wire, self-shielded flux-cored wire and gas-shielded flux-cored wire all work well ' provided they are applied correctly. The type of wire you choose will be contingent upon the location of the jobsite, thickness of the application, proper shielding gas combination and the type of equipment available. You should always clean the workpiece before welding to ensure optimum weld quality and prevent impurities from becoming trapped in the weld bead. To achieve the best possible results, be willing to make adjustments based on the jobsite variables and consider having both solid and flux-cored wire available.
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