Buying a new water heater soon? Read our guide to buying a water heater (tank and tankless) to learn all about the types of home water heaters, unit efficiency, and how much water heaters cost in Canada.
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If you’re having problems with your water heater — or even if it’s just getting old — it might be time to consider replacing it. But with so many options for type, heat source, size and features, it can be overwhelming to choose the right water heater for your needs. This guide provides you with the information you need to make the right decision and keep the hot water flowing.
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In this section, we’ll go over some of the key topics you might encounter while researching and buying a new water heater, including how they work and how to tell if it’s time to replace your current water heater.
At the highest level, water heaters use a fuel source — usually natural gas, propane or electricity — to produce heat that warms the water in your home.
For example, in a standard gas water heater with a storage tank, cold water enters the tank through the dip tube, which feeds the water into the bottom of the tank, where it’s warmed by a heating element. The hot water then rises to the top of the tank and is taken by the heat-out pipe and delivered to the pipes that deliver hot water to the faucets and appliances around your home. The heating elements are controlled by a thermostat that keeps the water in the tank at a relatively constant temperature so it’s always ready when you want it.
Start by checking your water heater’s warranty for some useful guidelines on how long you should expect it to last and when you should replace it. In general, you might want to start looking into a new model if:
Later in this guide, we’ll provide more in-depth information on troubleshooting common problems and routine maintenance for your water heater.
Water heaters come in a range of types and sizes, each with different features and associated costs. Here’s a rundown on five of the most common types of water heaters.
The storage tank water heater is the most common type, and it’s probably what you picture when you think of a water heater. Depending on what’s available in your area, you can get one heated by natural gas, propane or electricity. You also have a wide range of capacity options, from 20 to 80 gallons (76 to 303 litres).
Cold water is fed into the storage tank, where it’s heated by an electric element or gas-fired burner. From there, it’s either held in the tank until it’s needed or sent through your home’s water pipes to the point of use. A thermostat monitors the temperature of the water sitting in the tank and controls the heat source to keep the water heated to the set temperature and ready for use. To retain as much warmth as possible to prevent constant heating, most tanks are well-insulated. You can also add a tank blanket to increase the insulation factor even more.
There are two main types of tank water heaters, Power Vented (PV) and Conventional Vented (CV). They account for approximately 80% of the tanks in marketplace. The main difference between the two is that CVs vent the exhaust naturally up through the chimney, whereas PVs use a blower motor to vent the exhaust to the side of the house, usually in the alleyway between houses. CVs are commonplace in homes built before and PVs are standard for homes built after .
A tankless water heater, as the name suggests, doesn’t store hot water in a tank. Instead, the water is heated only as it’s needed (that is, it’s heated on demand). They heat the water for as long as the demand requires it, providing a continuous supply of hot water. They are heated by natural gas, propane, or electricity.
As water is drawn for use, it passes through a series of heating coils in the unit. That means it only heats water when it is needed – it does not store it. Tankless water heaters come in a range of sizes to match your hot water needs, maximizing your comfort.
Heat pump water heaters are technologically advanced, all-electric water heaters that use the air surrounding the water heater to heat the water inside the tank.
They work by having a fan pull air into the upper intake port, where refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air. Then a compressor pumps the heated refrigerant to the condenser where the heat is transferred to the water in the tank.
Heat pump water heaters are also known as Hybrid Water Heaters because they can function as standalone electric water heaters using their built-in electric heating elements. When a household’s hot water demands increase, the electric heating elements inside the storage tank activate to heat the water faster.
Solar water heaters are a relatively new option, relying on the warmth of the sun to do most of the heating. In the right setting, they can drastically reduce the carbon emissions from your water heating and significantly reduce your energy consumption.
The most basic version features a solar collector installed on your roof, with tubes to circulate water through it. The water is warmed by the sun as it circulates and then returned into a storage tank. Solar heating systems are generally equipped with thermostatic controls to keep the water from flowing when it’s cold out, and most have supplemental heat sources to help handle cold or cloudy periods.
In colder climates, indirect systems are more effective. Instead of heating the water directly, these systems send an antifreeze solution through the solar collector to be heated by the sun, then through a set of coils inside a water storage tank, where they transfer their heat into the water.
A condensing water heater is an option if you heat with gas and are looking for even greater energy efficiency.
A condensing water heater works similarly to a conventional gas-fired storage tank water heater, except it captures the exhaust gases that would typically exit the flue as waste heat. These gases are then circulated back through a coil in the base of the unit, where they transfer most of their heat into the water.
In most cases, heat source and capacity will be the main factors that influence your choice of water heater, but venting type, efficiency and space are also key items to consider.
We encourage you to contact a water heating expert to help you assess these factors and determine what kind of water heater will be right for you. Be sure to cover the following topics.
The first thing you need to determine is what kind of heat source to use, which is often dependent on where you live. Electricity is generally available everywhere, but natural gas may not be available in your area. In some areas, you may be able to get propane or oil instead. Either way, it’s best to check what’s available before you decide on a water heater.
If you have the choice of heat sources, you may want to compare the annual operating costs for the models you’re considering. Check the EnerGuide label (if available) and your utility company’s rates to determine approximately how much energy a water heater uses and how much that will cost you per year. Balance those costs with the upfront purchase cost, as a more expensive model can often ultimately cost less over time thanks to lower operating costs.
To determine how large a water heater you need, start by figuring out how much hot water you use. If you live by yourself and take quick showers, you can probably get away with a smaller tank. If you have four people showering every morning, you’ll need more capacity. The table below is a good starting point for the approximate tank size you’ll need based on the heat source and number of people in your household.
Along with tank size, you’ll also want to consider the first-hour rate (the amount of hot water that can be delivered in an hour, starting from a full tank) as well as the recovery rate (how much water a heater can heat in an hour while refilling the tank). And if you’re thinking about a tankless water heater, the flow rate (usually measured in gallons per minute) will be your primary consideration.
Figuring out how all those factors interact with each other can be tricky, so it’s worth consulting a water heating expert. They can do the math — factoring in the number of people, water heater type, estimated water use, flow rate and more — to recommend a water heater that will meet your needs.
Water heaters that use natural gas, propane or oil need to be vented to prevent harmful gases from building up inside your home. If you’re switching to one of these heat sources from an electric model, don’t forget to consider the cost of adding venting in your price comparisons — which will vary depending on the space where you’re planning to put the water heater and the type of venting you choose.
Venting comes in two types: power venting and conventional venting. Conventional venting sends exhaust gases out through a vertical pipe, relying solely on the physics of rising hot gas. It usually costs less than power venting, which uses an electric fan or blower to push out the exhaust gases. Power venting generally provides better ventilation and is recommended when there’s a higher risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. It’s also the only option if your space doesn’t allow for vertical venting — but you’ll need a backup power source to make sure it will keep running in case of a power outage.
In , Ontario building code began requiring the use of PVC (white plastic) pipes for venting, whereas homes built before used ABS (black plastic) pipes. If you are exchanging a water heater installed prior to , you will have to upgrade all the venting to PVC at an extra cost.
Another factor to consider is efficiency: a more efficient water heater uses less energy to heat the same amount of water, which reduces your carbon emissions and your energy bills. Efficiency-related regulations are constantly being updated, so replacing an old water heater with a newer one will most likely gain you some efficiency. But if you want to be sure you’re getting the most efficient water heater possible, look for one with the ENERGY STAR® symbol, which indicates that the product has been certified to meet a strict efficiency standard. Note that not all types of water heaters are eligible for ENERGY STAR certification.
Be sure to measure the space where you plan to put a new water heater — even if you’re replacing one with the same capacity. Guidelines and regulations on tank insulation are updated periodically, so many newer tanks are wider than their older counterparts of the same capacity and won’t necessarily fit into the same spaces.
Many manufacturers offer options for size and shape to fit into troublesome spaces. For example, lowboys are shorter and wider than standard models of the same capacity, so they can fit into spaces with limited headroom like crawlspaces or under cabinets. Conversely, if you have a high ceiling but limited floorspace, a tall water heater can get you the capacity you need in a smaller footprint.
The cost for a water heater includes standard installation, a warranty and all required licenses for installation. While you can sometimes find a water heater for less, be aware that lower prices often come with compromises in components, workmanship, warranty coverage and post-installation support.
Many factors can influence the exact cost of a new water heater, including the following:
The following table breaks down the average costs for new water heaters in Ontario offered by Enercare.
After your initial purchase, the cost to run your water heater will vary based on type, efficiency and heat source. The average US household spends $400 to $600 per year on heating water — about 18% of their total energy costs. In general, natural gas water heaters will cost less to run than electric ones, and solar heaters will cost even less. Read more about the different types of water heaters.
Various government and utility provider incentives and rebates are available for upgrading the energy efficiency of your home. Ask us about the latest programs and how you may qualify.
Most providers offer a variety of ways to purchase your water heater, including a one-time payment, deferred payments or financing programs.
Renting your equipment is a great way to avoid the upfront purchase and installation costs. With the Enercare AdvantageTM Program, your affordable monthly payments also cover maintenance and repairs. Contact us to schedule a free in-home assessment.
If you’re ready to rent a water heater, we can help. Fill out our sales form and we’ll be in touch soon.
Conventional storage tank water heaters are usually fairly straightforward to install, especially if your new one is the same type as your old one. If you’re switching from electric to gas, there will be additional venting and piping required, which will add to the cost and complexity.
For other types of water heaters, the complexity of installation can vary significantly, which means the costs involved will vary accordingly. Contact us for a no-obligation quote.
Here are some tips on how to handle some of the most common water heater problems you might encounter. If you can’t solve your water heater problem yourself, contact Enercare to have a licensed technician repair your water heater for you.
Start by making sure the valve on your gas supply line is fully open. Then try holding down the pilot knob for a minute to purge any air that might be in the line. If the pilot lights but won’t stay lit, make sure there’s nothing clogging the orifice that could prevent a full flame from forming.
Start by making sure the valve on your gas supply line is fully open. Then try holding down the pilot knob for a minute to purge any air that might be in the line. If the pilot lights but won’t stay lit, make sure there’s nothing clogging the orifice that could prevent a full flame from forming.
Make sure your pilot light is on, turn the water heater’s thermostat up a bit (no higher than 50˚C) and then turn on a hot water faucet. If the burner doesn’t come on within a few minutes, leave the water running and adjust the thermostat down and up again until the burner ignites.
If your water heater is fueled by natural gas, the two tips above about pilot lights and burners will usually solve the problem of no hot water. If your water heater is electric or power vented, make sure the breaker or fuse hasn’t tripped, and reset or replace it if it has. If it hasn’t, turn off the breaker and press the high-temperature cutoff reset switch. If the heater still doesn’t work, you might need to replace the heating element, which is usually a job best left to a professional.
If you’re running out of hot water and this is a new problem, first make sure it’s not a leak. Look for water around the base of your tank and address any leakage right away. If there are no leaks, try flushing your tank to get rid of any built-up sediment. If it’s very cold out, you can also try temporarily raising your water heater thermostat to compensate.
If your tank or pipes are leaking, turn off the heater and the main water supply, and repair or replace the leaky parts as soon as possible.
This issue is most common when you haven’t used the water in a while, so cold water gets pulled into the tank and sent to your faucets before it’s had a chance to be heated properly. If your water consistently takes too long to heat, try turning up your water heater thermostat — just be sure not to turn it up too hot.
The most likely cause for this is that your water heater thermostat is set too high. Adjust it as required. If it’s still too hot, steam comes out of your faucets or you can hear boiling water inside your tank, reset your high-temperature cutoff switch. If that doesn’t work, turn off the water heater and call a water heater technician to replace the switch.
Check to make sure all your valves are fully open. They should all be turned counterclockwise as far as they’ll go. If that doesn’t solve the issue, you may have a blockage somewhere and should call a plumber to replace the clogged pipes.
This is usually an indication that the anode rod inside your tank is failing, which can lead to corrosion and bacteria inside your tank. A water heater technician may be able to replace the rod, or it might be time to replace your water heater.
All water heaters make some noise, but very loud noises or unusual sounds may indicate a problem. A water heater technician can diagnose the problem for you and recommend a solution.
Regular maintenance is the best way to avoid problems and keep your water heater performing at its best. Keep your water heater and the area around it clean, and keep an eye out for any signs of corrosion or leakage.
In some cases, a technician might discover an issue with your gas-fired water heater that makes it unsafe to operate, and they may issue you a red tag. A Type A tag means your equipment poses an immediate danger, and your natural gas will be shut off to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning or other hazards. A Type B tag indicates an issue that is less urgent, but still needs to be addressed within 30 days.
If you get a red tag, give our water heater experts a call. One of our licensed technicians will assess your equipment and advise you on next steps to ensure you stay safe and comfortable.
We hope this water heater buyer’s guide helps you purchase a water heater that will fit your needs. If you have any other questions about water heating solutions, please don’t hesitate to contact our sales team
To book a free in-home assessment and price quote, get advice on a new water heater or have a technician look at your existing equipment, call our team at 1-855-514- or fill out the form below.
Name(Required) First Last Number(Required) Address(Required)Address(Required) Street Address City Province Postal Code Select Equipment(Required)Is your equipment working?(Required)How can we help you?A hot water tank (also known as a hot water heater) is exactly what it sounds: a large tank designed to heat and hold water. The tank draws cold water from the home’s water supply system, heats it, and distributes it to sinks, bathtubs, and dishwashers.
There are several types of hot water tank, which use different methods and fuels to heat the water. Gas heaters (fuelled by natural gas or propane) are the most popular, but electricity, oil and solar-powered tanks are also available. Most tanks hold around 200 litres of water.
A hot water tank is a simple device: a big cylindrical water tank with a heating element inside.
The tank mostly metal, with a protective liner inside to prevent corrosion. There’s also a layer of insulation to prevent heat loss. Combustion-style heaters (oil or gas) have an exhaust vent much like a car does. Older models might even have a chimney.
Cold water enters the tank near the top, then makes its way via the dip tube to the bottom, where heats it to the target temperature set by the thermostat. The heated water rises to the top of the tank, where it enters the home’s hot water pipes.
Are you interested in learning more about Hot Water Tank Storage? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!
The tank-style water heater is the most common variety in Canada. They’re probably what you imagine when you think of a hot water heater. Tank water heaters can be as small as 85 litres in a 1-2-person home or surpass 200 litres in a large home with 5 or more residents. Most models use electricity, propane, or natural gas as their fuel.
The main drawback of storage tank water heaters is that they expend energy keeping water hot around the clock, even during long periods where they’re not in use (like overnight).
True to their name, the tankless hot water heater doesn’t have a tank in which to store water. Instead, they heat water on-demand. They’re much smaller than tank-style models, and more energy efficient as well. Tankless water heaters are reliable and long-lasting, too. We’ve got a whole article on tankless water heaters if you’d like to read about those.
The downsides? They’re more expensive than tank-style heaters, and may not be able to output enough water for peak usage (like running the dishwasher while someone’s having a shower).
Though they are tank-like in appearance, heat pump hot water heaters have one big difference from a typical tank heater: they use electricity to draw in heat from the surrounding air and use it to heat the water, rather than heating the water directly. They’re like the opposite of a refrigerator, which pumps heat out rather than in. These are highly efficient devices, using as much as 60% less electricity than a typical hot water tank.
Unfortunately, they aren’t well-suited to chilly basements where water heaters often live; the less ambient heat they have to work with, the less efficiently they run. They’re also rather expensive, though the energy cost savings can make up for that in short order.
The fuel source is one of the principal factors in determining how efficient your tank will be (and how much it will cost you to run). Most people choose the fuel source that’s already set up in their home.
For example, if your home has a natural gas connection ready to go, you’d choose a natural gas heater. If you don’t have a gas system, it makes sense to buy an electric heater rather than set up a gas line and venting.
It’s also important to consider utility costs in your area. Natural gas is often much cheaper than electricity. So, while a gas heater costs more up front, it might end up paying for itself in the long run.
Here are the pros and cons for hot water tanks of the most common fuel types:
If your tank is undersized, it will overwork itself and often run out of water. An oversized tank, on the other hand, will use more energy than necessary.
There are two ways to measure a hot water tank’s capacity: the physical capacity of the tank itself, and the unit’s First Hour Rating, or FHR. The FHR is a measure of how much hot water the unit can output in one hour, starting with a full tank of fully heated water.
Estimate your water usage during the busiest hour in your home. It’s often in the morning, before work, as everyone in the family showers. It could also be in the evening, while drawing a bath and running the dishwasher. With a high-end estimate, you can decide if a hot water tank’s FHR is high enough.
To add up your peak hourly usage takes a little math, but it paints a clear picture of your hot water needs.
Here are some estimated hot water usage rates for common activities:
Activity Water usage Hot water faucet 3.8 litres / minute (1 gallon / minute) Typical shower 7.6 litres / minute (2 gallons / minute) Dishwasher 9.5 litres / minute (2.5 gallons / minute)Appliances and plumbing fixtures often have their water usage rates printed on them (or at least in a manual somewhere).
If you want to choose a new tank based on total capacity, you can estimate what you’ll need based on how many people live in the house and how many bathrooms and appliances you have:
Home description Tank capacity 2 people, 1 bathroom 90-135 litres (24-36 gallons) 2-3 people, 2 bathrooms 135-180 litres (36-48 gallons) 3-4 people, 3 bathrooms 180-225 litres (48-59 gallons) 4-5 people, 2-3 bathrooms, plus dishwasher and laundry 180-290 litres (48-77 gallons) 5+ people, 3+ bathrooms, frequently-used dishwasher and laundry 290-540 litres (77-143 gallons)If you have high-efficiency appliances and you know your family takes short showers, you can work with the lower end of the range. If you take frequent hot baths and have old, inefficient appliances, you might need something at the higher end.
As you can see, choosing a model based on total capacity is a little imprecise. It’s more effective to calculate your hot water needs using the FHR if you can.
On average, buying and installing a hot water tank costs between $1,000 and $1,300.
The larger a tank is, the more it costs (unsurprisingly). Gas-fuelled models cost more than electric ones.
To buy a tank on its own, expect to pay between $700 and $1,000 for an electric tank or between $1,000 and $2,000 for a gas model. There are models priced outside these ranges, but for an average home that’s about where you should set your expectations.
If you need to have a professional install your tank, expect to pay an added $100-500, depending on how much work needs to be done.
If you’re wondering where to buy a hot water tank, you can do so from virtually any large hardware store, or a plumbing/heating company. Most businesses that sell hot water tanks can also install them for you. Many will also give you a free estimate and give you advice on the right size and model before you buy.
Here are some of the most common issues with hot water tanks and what you can do to address them:
The most common cause of a gas-fired tank not putting out hot water is a failed pilot light. The pilot light is a small flame inside the device that’s always lit and serves as an ignition source for the main burner. If the pilot light goes out, your burner can’t heat any water. Check further down the page for instructions on re-lighting the pilot.
Another possible reason your hot water tank isn’t hot is a damaged or disconnected dip tube. The dip tube is inside the tank and sends the cold water to the bottom of the tank. A broken dip tube means cold water is sitting at the top of the tank and not being heated before entering the plumbing system.
If your hot water runs out prematurely, your heater may be too small. As a reference, check the sizing guidelines in the last section, or read Natural Resources Canada’s hot water tank guide for in-depth information on tank sizing.
Leaking is often a symptom of a serious problem that requires professional help. If you notice water around your tank, first shut off the fuel source and then the cold-water supply. Reliance Home Plumbing and City Wide Water Heater Service both have videos showing you how to do this. Then, get in touch with a serviceperson.
This could mean that the liner inside the tank has corroded or cracked, and water is leaking. You may not see any water on the ground, as the leaking water is boiling and turning to steam (hence the hissing sound). If you hear hissing from your hot water tank, get a professional to take a look.
Also known as “kettling” (like water boiling in a kettle), boiling sounds from your tank are often caused by water bubbling through sediment at the bottom of the tank. You might also hear kettling sounds if your tank is overheating the water. A faulty thermostat or other mechanical issue is often to blame. Regardless, you should speak to a professional if you hear boiling sounds — and ensure that the unit’s pressure release valve is working.
While most tanks should last around ten years, some simple maintenance can extend this lifespan and save you money in the long run:
This should be done annually to remove built-up sediment. When sediment accumulates, your hot water heater may make popping, knocking, or boiling sounds. This is caused by water bubbling through the sediment. Check out this video for an in-depth guide to flushing your tank, or see Lowe’s guide to water heater maintenance.
Inside a hot water tank is a sacrificial anode, a rod of magnesium or aluminum. The anode attracts corrosive minerals in the water to prevent them harming the tank itself. Once fully corroded, it’s no longer effective and you need to replace it. Experts recommend doing so every 1-3 years, though homes with hard water may need to do it more often. Replacing the anode is a simple procedure — check out this video by House-improvements.com.
Setting the thermostat high can result in increased water pressure. Hot water tanks have a release valve called the temperature and pressure release valve (T&P). Check the valve periodically to make sure it’s functioning correctly. In extreme cases of valve failure, a tank can even explode. Be sure to keep the thermostat set within recommended limits.
What is the life expectancy of a hot water tank?
The average life expectancy of a residential hot water tank ranges from 6 to 10 years. If you’re not sure of the age of your tank, check the serial number. For most brands, the first four digits indicate the month and year of manufacture.
If your tank is nearing the end of its life, the following signs could mean it’s time to find a replacement:
Making your hot water tank more efficient may also help prolong its lifespan (on top of saving some energy). Here are a few common tips to make your tank more efficient:
In the unfortunate event that your hot water tank ruptures, take the following actions to prevent further damage to your home:
There’s usually a valve on the cold water line close to your hot water tank. Close this as soon as possible. If you can’t find it, use your home’s main water shut-off valve which is usually in the basement of a house or the bathroom of a condo (side note: it’s a good idea to locate this valve before you need to use it).
Electric water tanks have heating elements designed to be submerged in water. When the element is exposed to open air it can be a fire hazard. Locate the breaker for the hot water tank on your circuit breaker board and flip the switch to OFF. If you have a gas-fueled tank, shut off the main gas valve.
Home insurance policies usually cover water damage that results from a ruptured tank. However, exclusions are specific to each policy, so check your coverage with your provider. Be sure not to throw anything out until you’ve spoken to your adjuster, as they may need to see the damaged items if you decide to submit a claim.
If you’re concerned about the risk of water damage in your home, check out Square One’s Preventing water damage article.
If your hot water tank needs replacing, the first step is to decide what type of system you want to replace it with.
Is now the time to go tankless? Tankless systems heat water on-demand. As a result, they offer energy (and cost) savings, plus the luxury of unlimited hot water. They’re also smaller and often have longer life spans than hot water tanks. On the downside, they’re more expensive, and smaller units may not be adequate for homes with large simultaneous hot water demands.
If you’re not a handy person, you should call a professional when something goes wrong. They’ll advise you on whether you should repair or replace your hot water tank. You may save some money working on the tank yourself, but it’s not worth the risk of scalding yourself, flooding your house, or creating a dangerous gas leak and possibly an explosion or fire.
If you’re replacing your hot water heater with the same size and type, here’s a quick warning: If your hot water heater is located in a tight spot, we recommend hiring a plumber. Regulations on insulation have resulted in increased diameters for a given capacity of tank, potentially requiring complex re-routing of your water and gas pipes.
For those comfortable taking on the task themselves, installation will depend on which type of tank you choose:
IMPORTANT: Don’t do this until the tank is completely full, or you could run into an issue known as “dry firing,” which could damage the heating element in your tank, or even cause a fire.
Heating the water may take several hours, but if you see any water dripping from the tank, consider lowering the pressure. Plumbers recommend 80 PSI or less.
Home insurance providers may ask about the age of your hot water tank when you fill out your initial application. Once a tank passes its normal life expectancy, the risk of leaks or corrosion is increased. Insurers may advise (or in some cases require) replacement before they start coverage In other cases, replacing your hot water heater may reduce your premium.
It is generally safe to drink the water from a hot water heater, but it’s a matter of some debate. If your tank is old, or hasn’t been flushed in a while, it may be full of sediment that can make its way to your faucet.
As well, hot water is more likely to leach minerals (like copper) from the pipes as it travels through your home. The risk is higher in large buildings with extensive plumbing systems, like condos or apartments. Though such minerals aren’t harmful in small doses, they can give the water an off taste.
It’s best to use cold water for drinking or cooking instead.
How you turn on your hot water tank varies by model. Regardless, the instructions should be printed clearly on the unit.
If you have a modern gas-powered hot water tank:
If you have an older gas tank, it might not have an igniter button. Instead, you need to manually light the pilot flame with a long barbecue lighter while holding down the pilot igniter button.
An electric tank is much simpler to turn on:
Note: If you ever need to shut off your electric hot water tank to inspect or service it, place a lock out tag on the breaker switch after turning it off. This can be as simple as a piece of duct tape that says, “leave off.” It’s important to ensure that no one accidentally turns on the breaker while you’re working on the unit.
There are two commonly suggested temperatures for hot water tank thermostats: 60 °C or 49 °C (140 °F or 120 °F).
For many years (and in some places, presently), 60 °C was the recommended temperature. At 60 °C, the water in the tank is hot enough to kill any bacteria trying to set up shop inside the tank.
However, water at that temperature is also hot enough to cause third-degree burns in seconds. This makes it necessary to install mixing valves, which drop the temperature of the water after it leaves the tank. BC Hydro, for example, currently recommends setting your hot water tank at 60 °C.
If you do, you need to test the temperature of the hot water coming out of each faucet and shower in your home to ensure it’s under 49 °C at that point.
Government of Canada health authorities, meanwhile, suggest setting the tank at 49 °C. This is still hot enough to kill the overwhelming majority of bacteria, but cool enough to avoid scalding anyone in the home. Plus, it uses less energy than setting it at 60 °C.
Though, homes with immunocompromised occupants should set the temperature at 60 °C to be certain no lingering bacteria survive — just make sure you’ve got your mixing valves set up.
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