We always use 1-1/4" standard galvanized steel pipe in 5' joints (with standard pipe threads) when hand-driving a well. We typically put down "3 joints and a point". The longer the point the better in my opinion (of 3', 4' or 5' choices).
A shallow well with a surface shallow well pump should have no more than 25' between the end of the point and the pump. Use a check valve on the suction side of the pump to hold the prime since you won't have a foot valve.
We use a heavy-duty Schedule 80 black iron coupling tightened on as tight as we can get it to drive with. The Schedule 80 coupling is then removed, then we wrap about 3-4 flat turns of teflon tape clockwise only on the male threads of the pipe as the threaded end faces you and tighten a standard galvanized coupling on as tight as we can get it. You will need a back-up wrench to hold the pipe as you tighten the couplings and additional joints on.
After we get the 3 joints and the point driven, we then use a pitcher pump to hand pump off the sand out of the well until it runs fairly clean before hooking it up to the electric pump. I use 1-1/4" PVC white plastic from a plugged galvanized T off of the top of the last pipe joint to the pump.
If you need to know how to prime a pump, I'll be glad to go into that for you, too.
Do not install a well within 100' of any part of a septic system BTW.
I've helped drive enough wells in my day for myself and friends that I know that I won't do it any more (aged out). LOL
Good Luck!
Mike
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If you want to learn more, please visit our website Threaded Water Well Drill Pipe.
You will only find flush threaded PVC at wholesalers that cater to the drilling contractor. This is NOT what you want anyways. This product is much more expensive than regular PVC pipe. Each piece has to be chucked in a lathe and the male and female threads are machined in each end.
It used to be very common when using PVC pipe for with casing or liner to use regular bell end glue joint pipe. We would additionally add sheet metal screws to each joint to help hold it together as we glued it together and lowered it into the hole. There been more than once that I've been lowering a PVC liner into the well and heard a "whoooosh" as a glue joint pulled apart from the weight of the pipe. Usually about 200 ft down the hole.
Nowadays we normally use Certalock PVC pipe. It is bell and socket, but you don't glue it. It has an o-ring for sealing. Then both the male and female ends have a groove machined in them. There is a hole on the outside of the bell end that you inset a "spline" of PVC to lock the joint together. You will also only find this pipe at wholesale distributors for drilling contractors.
You need to check your states well drilling regulations whether PVC is permissible for casing and under what situations. If it is allowed the regulations will also state the minimum SDR ratio or pressure rating of the pipe. I really prefer 4 1/2" ID PVC instead of 4" PVC, which has an OD of 4 1/2". They Make this casing clear up to a 17.3" OD. It has a wall thickness of over an inch. It's being used instead of 16" steel in California. Not because it's cheaper, it's not. It's being used because it doesn't rust.
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