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There are two types of flux-cored wires — gas shielded and self-shielded. Gas-shielded flux-cored wires require external shielding gas, and the slag is easy to remove. Consider using gas-shielded flux-cored wires when welding on thicker metals or in out-of-position applications.
1. What does the 6 stand for in ER70S-6?
As an example, for a commonly used solid wire — AWS ER70S-6 — the “ER” indicates that the filler metal is an electrode or rod; the “70” signifies that it has a tensile strength of 70,000 pounds per square inch (psi), and the “S” means that it is a solid wire.
2. What is the difference between ER70S2 and ER70S-6?
Both the wires can be used for similar jobs due to their identical capabilities. The major difference between the two products is prominent when the user is operating on contaminated or rusted surfaces, in which case the ER70S6 provides better penetration and higher quality of welds.
3. Is flux core wire good?
The LINCOLN ELECTRIC NR-211 flux-core wire is a good quality reel that, when welding, cools quickly to keep heat out of your project. It also produces very minimally spatter. The slag has good coverage but is easily removed, making cleanup a breeze. Unfortunately, the range is very small.
4. Does flux core wire go bad?
Flux core wire is not solid, so contaminants such as moisture can enter the wire. So, if flux core wires are exposed to moisture for a long time, they will go bad. ... While flux core wire can go bad, it does not merely go bad for no reason or without any signs.
5. Can you use flux-cored wire with gas?
You can use gas with a regular flux core, but it is a total waste of gas. The flux in dual shield wire doesn't shield the weld, it causes better deposition rates and weld characteristics in the weld. Gas is needed with a dual shield to shield the weld, but not with flux cored.
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6. What's the difference between .30 and .35 flux wire?
A flux core wire that features a 035 electrode implies that it is thicker than one, which measures 035 by. 005 inches. ... The thicker the diameter of a wire, the deeper the penetration. While 035 flux core wires work well with 250 V machines, 030 flux-cored wires deliver great performance when used with 210 V machines.
Flux Cored Wire Gas-shielded
7. How do I choose flux core wire?
030-inch diameter is a good all-around choice for welding a wide range of metal thicknesses. For welding thicker material at higher total heat levels, use. 035-inch wire (or . 045-inch wire if it's within your welder's output range).
8. What is the most preferred MIG wire solid or flux core?
The first reason why you may prefer gas-shielded solid core wire for MIG welding is the most obvious: You don't have to clean up the flux when you're done welding. The shielding gas saves you a clean-up step and helps you immediately create a clean weld.
9. How can you tell the difference between flux core and solid wire?
Solid wire provides deep penetration in the root and usually has little spatter. Flux-cored wire has a larger ball-type transfer and produces low spatter levels. In addition, flux-cored wire produces a rounder penetration profile with excellent sidewall fusion.
10. Can I use solid wire without gas?
While solid MIG wire requires a shielding gas to protect the weld, typically a mix of Argon and CO2, there's also flux-cored MIG wire that shields the weld on its own without the help of gas.
11. How long can you store flux core wire?
Flux cored wire should not be stored for more than 5 years. The older wire should be redried before use. Storeroom temperature should be kept as even as possible, temperature variations should not exceed ± 5°C.
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Hello everyone,
I’m a new member and a beginner with welding. I have had a few wire feed welders in the past as well as technical college courses on welding during my time in college to become a certified auto mechanic. That being said, I think I have a grasp on the basics but I still struggle with welding more than I’d like to admit. I currently own a Lincoln Electric Handy MIG, used without gas but with flux-cored wire.
I am currently working on a small weekend project with 1” square steel tubing. I am welding very basic butt joints at 45 degree angles and a few 22.5 degree pieces. The trouble I am having is basically every aspect of making a decent weld. (I have the machine set on the factory recommended settings for what I am welding, and I have very briefly experimented with tweaking them in small increments.)
I am unable to even lay a bead down, my welds are just uneven piles of slag and spatter and crud. One major problem I’ve been having is burning through my metal, and I’m not sure how to prevent that from happening while still penetrating the material. The welds that I do have are very bubbly with spatter around most of them, and the metal surrounding the welds is discolored and looks as if it’s been way too hot. I’ve tried changing my travel speed, but faster is just too fast to do anything and slower just blows holes right through my material.
I’m not quite sure how else to describe the problems I’m having, my welds just simply suck! I’m hoping a more experienced welder can help me tweak my process to get better welds.
Thank you guys for helping out the younger newer guys!
*Quick side note: I also struggle with keeping my pieces to maintain the angles they are supposed to sit at. I did my cutting and grinding carefully, but my angles are opening and closing as I weld and making it difficult to even have a simple rectangle with 90° corners!
I'm very far from being competent with a welder.
But, I suggest you pause welding things together for a bit.
Get some thick steel, clean it perfectly, and practice on that, just getting the welder to weld.
Lay the steel on a bench, weight it with something, so it does not move, and get used to just welding it. Straight rows, follow a scribed line, that sort of thing.
Flux core isn't considered a good place to start, and also needs reverse polarity from gas mig, so check the set up of the machine.
Ignore factory settings for a bit, more power is better for now, as you've thick steel, you won't burn through.
Pictures will help the experienced welders critique your progress.
Hi Wildefalcon thanks for your quick reply. I agree with you totally on practicing on scrap. I actually did do that before i attempted working on my good stuff. I used all sorts of scraps but I also used scrap that was exactly what I’m working on for my project, and i was able to get decent beads that appeared(to me) to have full penetration without burning holes in my stock. I think that’s what makes it so much more frustrating, is I figured I was good to go but as soon as I touched the good stuff I screwed it up.
I would imagine it has to do with the fact that I’m welding a butt joint rather than just laying a bead on a flat piece. As I said, I made sure to do my cutting and grinding carefully this time as I’ve had issues in the past where I was trying to weld up gaps in crooked cuts. I’m really stumped!
As far as the polarity goes, that could very well be a possible culprit. How could I tell the proper polarity/ how could I switch it? I see the +/- lugs under the side cover of my machine, but I’m not sure if it’s already how it needs to be or if I need to switch them.
Thanks!
Here are you some pics to help describe my issues. The first ones are my worst ones and then my better ones(I know, still terrible) as well as a joint that i tacked but did not continue to weld on, which from what I’ve read online so far is not the way it’s supposed to look. Also attached is a pic of the machine I’m using. Not totally the bottom of the barrel but definitely one of the cheaper ones you can find out there.
Thanks
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As far as shop illumination, my garage (specifically my workspace) is very well lit with LED ceiling lights as I am always working on something or another here. I forget the exact brand of my mask but off the top of my head I believe it’s a Chicago Electric or Lincoln Electric, and it is a passive lens rather than a self darkening lens. Again, not the top of the line, but not horrible either. It has served me well so far, and when I do create an arc my vision of my workspace is clear. The passive lens does although make it difficult when just doing tacks or stitching short little welds(which does seem to produce much better results than attempting a steady solid bead.)
You both mentioned better prep/cleaning, is that because of the cleanliness of the metal you can see in the pictures or because you can tell by my welds that it is dirty?
I am currently using magnetic clamps designed to hold the two work pieces at different angles and such. Are these not strong enough and possibly causing my angle issues?
Thanks again guys, it’s a huge help to have input from more experienced welders!!
@Tangledfeet that is the EXACT wire I’m using actually! If I’m not mistaken, it came with the machine when I bought it a year or two ago.
Again, it seemed to work just fine when I did my practice runs on flat scrap metal of the same type that I’m using for this project. Could there be an issue with my butt joints somewhere??
Ah, that's good - I did wonder if it might come with the machine. I'm no expert, others here are; just clean the weld area beforehand, play around and practice!
(Also, for your own health - plenty of ventilation!)
I had to dig for anything left of my practice runs as they were actually done quite some time ago, before I started on this current project. I have this one bit that I had been playing on. I’m sure the rust and grime that developed doesn’t help the image much and these are some of the worse ones. Again, I know they’re horrible to almost any standard, but where you see I did a simple line on top of the stock I feel as if I had decent penetration and I didn’t burn through at all. Where you see that I tried to weld the two scrap pieces together at a 45° butt joint, well....you guys can see how that went. Like I said, It seems as soon as I attempt a joint I just completely butcher it.
I definitely have seen and heard from countless experienced welders that the preparation makes all the difference, but I have also read that flux core is forgiving of dirty metal and wind etc. I haven’t experienced any forgiveness from this welder so far, haha.
Again I know my welds are not great to begin with, but is there maybe some trick or concept of butt joints that I’m unaware of/doing incorrectly that can cause some of these problems? It often seems almost as if I’m pushing weld right down in between the two pieces.
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