stainless, thanks for the link. I saw that on a whitecap website. The mdo is 44 a sheet for 3/4. The plyform was more. I found a place to rent the jaen a brackets for .35 ea a month and the c brackets were .50 ea. I have about 10-15 turnbuckles.I will need a few more and I probably have 100 form stakes 1' to 5'. We will be pumping a blend of 3/4 and pea gravel. The engineer speced out psi but know special inspections needed. That seems alittle weird but good for me. The terrain is the biggest issue. It's on the side of a hill. Street side is 1 story and the lake side will be 4. we have removed 60 yrds of rock from under the house and now we will be removing about 140 more from the bottom.I need to build a temp wall to support the back of the house as I need to remove the existing foundation and lower it 4 feet. I tried to hire out all of it but out of 20 sets of drawings I got 2 bids.niether has called back. So I'm doing it. The worst part is it's 2 hours away and I have a full time job. I am taking 1 week off to excavate and haul dirt off then a few days at a time to do the foundation. I will am trying to do it in 2 pours. footings then 80' of 4' wall, 56' of 8'wall,32' of 2' stepped wall. Then i'll try to sub out the framing.
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PWC Repair said: Click to expand...
I would go with the uprights 24"minimum but 16" on center would be better. Make sure the 2x4 is on edge and not laying flat on the wide side. If you vibrate the wall just be careful because that will put a lot more pressure on the wall. Not sure how long the wall is going to be but what I have done before is to use 3/4" pvc cut to the width of the wall in your case 8" install in the wall and slide your rod through. this way you can tighten the wall up so its not as flimsy. After stripping the wall you can grout the hole from the pvc. The more up rights the stronger the form will be. If you go the 30" I think you might have bows in between them.
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