10 Things to Consider When Buying metal grinding disc

10, Mar. 2025

 

The 7 Factors Used to Determine a Grinding Wheel Specification

Dave Goetz, Corporate Application Engineer, Norton | Saint-Gobain Abrasives

Hengxuan Abrasive supply professional and honest service.

How to Choose a Grinding Wheel

Many of us have used grinding wheels as part of our regular, daily work functions, but most of us don't know why we use the wheel we do, or even if the wheel we are using the right one for the job.

There are many different types of abrasive grains, available in a whole range of grit sizes and held together by different bonding agents. How do we know which to use?

It's simpler than we might think. A grinding operation is a system, and as a whole, there are many parts to consider. One key component is the wheel. To determine where to start, consider the seven operational factors.

  1. The Material Being Ground
  2. The Severity of the Operation
  3. Required Finish and Form Accuracy
  4. Area of Contact
  5. Wheel Speed
  6. Coolant Use
  7. Machine/Spindle Horsepower

By taking each of these seven factors into consideration, it is possible to narrow the field down to a smaller list of options to start with for any grinding operation.

1. The Material Being Ground

The first thing to consider when selecting a grinding wheel specification is what are we grinding? What is the material, and how hard is it? Is it easy to grind or difficult? By reviewing these elements, we can select the correct abrasive type, the grain's attributes, the appropriate grit size, and bond type.

Knowing the properties of the material we are working with helps us select the proper abrasive grain and its attributes. By convention, we use aluminum oxide grains for grinding ferrous metals and silicon carbide for non-metals and non-ferrous metals. Ceramic and superabrasive grains can be used on either but generally under specific circumstances where the material being ground requires these types of grains or when we are looking to optimize process performance.

Once we know which grain type to start with, we can look at the material grindability. If the material is easy to grind, we will want to use a tough/durable grain. Since the material is easy to grind, the grain shouldn't break down too soon or too easily, so the whole grain can be used to maximize wheel life. For materials that are hard to grind, we will want to use a mild/friable grain, which fractures more easily, stays sharper, and actually grinds the material.

For easy to grind materials, we would want a coarser grit. This is because the grain can easily penetrate the material, make and remove chips. Using a larger or coarser grit maximizes the stock removal, reducing cycle time.

Another aspect of the wheel we can dial in on based on the material being ground is the grade or hardness of the bond. If the material is considered easy to grind, we can use a harder grade, which ensures that the wheel doesn't release the grain before it is consumed. Knowing that we want to use the abrasive grain for as long as we can, we want the bond to hold that grain in the wheel for as long as possible.

If the material is difficult or hard to grind and we use a blocky, tough, and durable grain, we run the risk of simply dulling the grain and opening the door to finish issues, such as burning, because the grain will rub and not grind.

The material being ground also helps us determine the grit size. For hard to grind materials, we would recommend a finer grit size because a smaller particle will penetrate hard materials and form a chip easier than a larger blockier one. Difficult or hard to grind materials are abusive to the abrasive grain and can cause them to blunt or dull. Since we need more sharp points to penetrate the material, we want to ensure the grains are being released before they become too dull and cause metallurgical damage. With hard materials, a softer grade should be used so that the material is constantly being exposed to sharp grains. The grade needs to be soft enough to release the dulled grains and keep exposing new sharper grains to the work.

2. The Severity of the Operation

Here we consider how much or how heavy the grinding pressure will be in the grind zone. The higher the grinding pressure or force per grain, the more severe the operation. It is operations like these where today's ceramic and superabrasive grains do well. Much like the material we are grinding, severity of operation helps us determine the attributes of the abrasive grain.

The last part of the wheel spec that severity of operation helps us determine is the grade of the bond or hardness of the wheel. Where we have heavier pressure, we naturally go with a harder grade for the wheel because we want the wheel to hold up under the forces of the grind operation - to hold on to the grain long enough for it to do the work we need it to do. In short, a harder bond is required so that it will hold the grains long enough to be used fully and not released too soon.

For operations with light pressure or lower force per grain, we use a mild/friable grain. When the severity of operation is low, we don't want a durable grain that will only rub and dull. We need one that will continue to break down to expose new sharp cutting points, and mild or friable abrasives do this better, keeping sharp grains in contact with the material.

For light pressure operations, we use finer grit sizes. Since the pressure per grain will be lower overall, we need to make sure the grain is still able to fracture properly; if it's too coarse, the grain may not break down and self-sharpen at all.

When working under light pressure, a softer grade can be used because we need the wheel to break down and release the dull grain before it starts to rub and heat or burn. We also want the wheel to break down to bring new sharp grains to the cutting surface so we can perform the required work and get the desired performance from the grain.

3. Required Finish and Form Accuracy

We use abrasive products such as grinding wheels because of their speed, ability to repeat form, and achieve finish. When trying to select the correct wheel specification, we need to look at the operation and establish whether we are looking for rapid stock removal or a finer finish. Whether the part is simple/flat or if there is a form to hold. Knowing these requirements will help us select the correct grinding wheel for the process.

Again, we need to consider the required surface finish, dimensional tolerances, form holding requirements, and stock removal rates. By examining these, we can determine the appropriate grit size. What we need to achieve with the wheel will also help us determine the grade of bond or hardness of the wheel.

For low Ra finishes and/or close geometric tolerances, we naturally want to use a finer grit because the actual grit size of the grain provides for more points of contact between the work and wheel. This helps with precision finishes, which have a shallower scratch pattern, resulting in a lower micro-inch finish. It is also the physical size of the grain that allows us to achieve and hold small radius and complex forms better than we could with larger or coarser grit sizes.

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When we require fast stock removal rates or when form and finish are not as critical, we want to use a coarse grit size. Whether we need a specific finish or form, we always want to use the coarsest grit size we can. A coarser grit will take a larger chip, and as such, increase stock removal cutting cycle time.

The final aspect of the wheel spec determined by looking at the part requirements is the bond type. When we require close tolerances and form holding, we will want a vitrified product. Vitrified wheels hold their form/shape better than organic or resin bonded wheels, but organic bonds tend to finish better. For reflective and other finer finishes, the operation should consider using an organic or resin bond. Organic bonds, unlike vitrified bonds, have a little give to them and some of the grinding forces are going into the wheel/bond, reducing the chip size. Another benefit of using an organic bond for fine finish grinding is that organic bonded wheels break down from the heat of the grind, and they tend to hold the grain a little longer, allowing it to run and dull. It is this dulling and rubbing that helps generate the finer finish.

4. Area of Contact

Area of contact, the fourth factor we consider, is in part related to the second factor: severity of operation, in that it considers the amount (or area) of contact between the work and the wheel. This factor looks at how the force applied to make a chip will be distributed through the grind zone in much the same way surface area is related to pressure in a hydraulic system. When a wheel is applied to the work, the force applied is distributed over all the cutting points in the grind zone. The larger the area of contact, the lower the force per gain. Conversely, the smaller the area, the higher the force per grain.

When we have a small area of contact, we would want a tough/durable grain. A small area of contact equates to a higher force per grain, so we need an abrasive grain that can hold up to these forces without fracturing too early and suffering premature wear. Again, when the force per grain is higher due to smaller contact areas, a ceramic or superabrasive grain may be a good choice.

Knowing we have a small area of contact, we will want to use a finer grit size because in addition to providing more abrasive points at the area of contact, it will also ensure that the relative pressure or grinding forces will be split among many grains.

A smaller area of contact typically also calls for using harder graded wheels. Because the forces are higher in smaller areas of contact, we need the wheel to hold its shape and not release grains too soon. Since the relative grinding pressure at the point of contact would be high, a harder grain is used to prevent premature wheel wear.

When the area of contact increases and becomes larger, like that of a blanchard segment, we need a milder, more friable grain. Due to the increased number of grain in contact with the work in the grind zone, the force per grain is lower and the grain can fracture and self-sharpen more easily.

In operations with a large area of contact, we want a coarser grit so that the grinding forces (which would be lower because the area is large) are spread over fewer grains, thus increasing the pressure per grain so that work can be done more efficiently. The forces will help the grain penetrate the work and assist in making the grain breakdown/fracture as needed.

In operations with large areas of contact, we run the risk of dulling the grain. This is due to the lower force per grain we typically see in operations with a large area of contact. To offset the possibility of burning related to dulling grains, we want a softer grade for our wheel so the grain can be released and replaced before any damage is done to our part.

The final factors, although important, only help fine tune or narrow down the wheel specification options.

5. Wheel Speed

The fifth factor to consider is the wheel speed. We have to consider the operating speed of the wheel in surface speed. To calculate surface speed, use these equations or try our iGrind app on the App Store and Google Play. 

Wheel speed determines what bond type is most suited for the required speed or if a special high speed bond might be required.

One final note on wheel speed. Wheels will act differently based on their speed. It is a commonly accepted practice that for every SFPM (5.08 M/s) the surface speed changes, the wheel will act one grade harder or softer depending upon how the speed changes.

  • Slower = Softer. At slower wheel speeds, there is a higher force per abrasive particle causing the grain and/or bond to break down quicker.
  • Faster = Harder. At higher wheel speeds, there is lower force per abrasive particle making both the grain and bond seem more durable and resistant to breaking down as designed.

This can be useful in troubleshooting a wheel specification and/or to dial in the wheel grade.

6. Coolant Use

The sixth factor we consider is coolant use. Coolant in a grinding system affects vitrified and organic (resin) bonded wheels differently and is considered when determining the wheel's grade or hardness.

If coolant is used:

  • Vitrified bonded wheels will act softer because the lubricity of the coolant helps reduce the friction/energy in the grind zone, which can help keep the grain from dulling. This keeps it sharper and freer cutting.
  • Organic (resin) bonded wheels will act harder because the coolant reduces the heat in the grinding zone. It is the heat of the grind that softens the wheel, allowing it to self-sharpen; if the heat is eliminated or reduced, the wheel will not break down as designed. 

If no coolant is used:

  • In dry operations, vitrified bonds will act harder because the grain will rub and dull more, creating more heat in the grind zone and potentially leading to burning and/or other damage.
  • Organic (resin) bonded wheels will act softer due to the ways in which the bonds work. More heat in the grind zone will soften the wheel quicker, possibly leading to early wheel wear and premature life.

7. Machine/Spindle Horsepower

The seventh and final factor to consider is horsepower. We have to consider the horsepower of the grinding machine to determine the grade of the bond or hardness of the wheel.

  • High Horsepower ' When a machine has a higher horse power available at the spindle, we should use a harder wheel grade. We make the wheel harder so it will hold form and hold on to the grain as long as possible under the higher power/force conditions. We can also use a more durable grain knowing there should be sufficient force/energy available to fracture the grain and get it to self-sharpen.
  • Low Horsepower - We know that grinding energy causes the wheel and abrasive grains to break down and perform as designed. When the machine is low power or is underpowered at the spindle, we may not be able generate enough force to break the wheel down as needed, resulting in grain dulling leading to burn and other surface damage. To mitigate this, we need to use a softer grade for our wheels. We may also want to look at more friable grains to help with this.

As you can see, there are several things to consider when trying to determine a starting specification for a grinding wheel. There may be situations when one factor may point you in one direction, while a second may point you in the opposite direction. In cases like that, it is best to look at where the majority of the factors are pointing you and/or to consider what you feel are the most important factors of your operation and use those factors to determine where to start.

The chart below lays out all of the factors on a single sheet, making it easier to reference. All seven are listed along with their considerations and what aspects of the wheel specification they affect.

Contact us to discuss your requirements of clean and strip disc. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

Angle grinder cutting disks, which ones? - The Garage Journal

My experience has tended to be that the "better" ones do tend to be better and last longer. It's not as clear-cut as it could be though: there are expensive disks that last no longer than most cheap ones and there are cheap ones that punch well above their weight. I'm across the pond, so specific recommendations from me would be unlikely to help you. The best advice I can give is to try a few different ones and when you find one that you think hits the sweet-spot for your use, stock up on them.

For my cordless grinder (4 1/2" Makita), the disks I tend to use most are the Lenox MetalMax or similar diamond-edged steel disks. These have advantages and disadvantages, so whether they are appropriate depends on what you do with your grinder. I do mostly maintenance work on sites and I like the MetalMax because they don't wear down significantly in use and they are MUCH less likely to shatter than thin cutting disks. They don't cut as well/fast as the thin disks, but they are able to do a pretty good job of grinding compared to a thin cutting disk. In a lot of cases, I'll need to cut off an anchor bolt, which leaves a sloping stub that needs grinding off flush with the surface. The MetalMax (other similar products are available) is just the quickest, easiest, safest way I've found to do certain jobs and tends to be the disk that gets left on the grinder by default. There are certainly times when I'll use grinding disks, thin cutting disks, flap disks or clean-and-strip disks, because they each do certain jobs much better than anything else.
You'll probably get a bunch of responses from Harbor Freight to Pferd and more. I generally use Milwaukee or Dewalt blades, they're easy to get, not super expensive, and hold up fine for my use. I will say that the Diablo blades didn't last long when I was cutting black pipe, the Milwaukee metal cutting blades lasted probably 75% longer.

Project Farm has a couple videos on YouTube testing different brands of cut off wheels.
I thought Project Farm's episode was bullshit due to the fact that all he tested was the shit he could buy at Home Depot. No Pferd, Walter, SAIT, Metabo, Norton or 3M discs were included. If you want quality go to a welding supply house not Home Depot and Lowes.
Do the diamond coated wheels last say, 10 regular disks or?
It's difficult to say because it varies according to the nature of the task and the reason you need to change disks. If you are cutting steel angle/section into lengths, for example, and need to change disks when they're no longer big enough to make a complete cut, the MetalMax will likely outlast a box of 100 thin cutting disks.

If you are cutting 1/4" allthread, and wear the disk right down, the MetalMax might only last as long as ten thin cutting disks.

For the sort of stuff I do, I'm pretty confident the steel/diamond disks have a useful life between 10 and 100 times that of the (reasonably decent) thin disks I use. YMMV.

They do cut slower though, so in a workshop environment with everything to hand, you need to account for the time saved by using thin disks. On site, the extra few seconds per cut tends to be of more trivial concern. You're doing the right thing by looking beyond whatever is available locally!

Much good advice here already, and I would also advise looking for known makes where feasible. If you can find a good supplier, then sometimes you can trust what they offer, even if it's unfamiliar.

I'm assuming you are in the U.S? I'm in the U.K, but we share suppliers such as MSC and Zoro, both of who offer cutting discs. You may find that good quality discs from one of these suppliers, cost no more than poorer ones from a store with higher margins.

Are you cutting stone / masonry, or metal?

For the former, forget conventional discs. I do this work seldom, but when I do I only use diamond discs. They remove less material, and the disc doesn't disintegrate as you cut, so they are way cleaner to use.

I use these Marcrist, but that might be a British brand. Anything reputable works.



For steel, I now only use these 'thin kerf' cutting discs. By minimising the thickness of the cut they reduce the cutting effort, and the dust, but good quality is more important than ever with these thin discs. Norton, Sait and Pferd have all been mentioned, and I can vouch for them all.

I've recently been using these 0.8mm Flexovit discs and they are great.


If I find a disc I like I tend to stock up, but cutting discs are susceptible to moisture, so I tend to vacuum seal my supplies!

If I get an urgent job, it's great to be able to go to my stores and pull out a cutting disc, grinding disc, flapwheel, or wire brush, in whatever size I need, without worrying about the quality! I do hobby welding, but have done some pretty good sized projects around the house.

I started with a 4.5" angle grinder like everyone else. Later bought a 4.5 Ryobi cordless for very work and a 7" Makita beast.

Not that long ago I bought a 6" DeWalt grinder and a NIB Bosch 5" grinder. I try to buy cutting discs, grinding wheels and flap wheels in bulk on Lehigh Abrasives. I may purchase $60-$80 at a time and I'm good for a while. The prices and performance I find are better than local stuff. And I hate stopping in the middle of job just to go buy a $3 disc at the home center.

The 6" DeWalt is the most versatile in speed, power, and performance. I'm currently working using some metabo 6" discs and those things are wicked.

cut off wheel

I have been buying 4" cut off wheels for my angle grinder. Was wondering if there is better quality? I am using it on mild steel, car frame and burning thru them really fast. Hoping there is one better then another. Thanks

grinding and cut off wheels for 4 1/2 to 6 inch angle grinders

Sorry if this has already been hashed over, but I could not find anything. What are your all's experiences with brands of grinding wheels and cut off wheels in the 4 1/2 inch to 6 inch size for angle grinders that last/work better than others. I have recently re-located to a place where I now... Again, there is a PF test on these. Yes, he only tested the Home Depot, or Amazon "shit" because that's what 99% of people buy. People that are buying consumables at a welding store are most likely commercial customers, and as such they already know the answer to which is best to them; they're not the PF audience.
The Lenox diamond wheels work great, but they are slow cutting. Their main advantage IMO is they will not explode. If you are only doing a few cuts now and then in a home shop, they're worth a try based on the safety aspect alone. For occasional home use, cost is going to most likely be a large factor in the decision; this is why the PF test has relevance for a DIYer. If a wheel costs 50% as much as the "best" and offers 80% of the life and performance of the best/most expensive wheel, that 50/80 ratio is an acceptable tradeoff to me in favor of the cheaper product for infrequent use. But if you're running a fab shop and paying someone that will have to change wheels, then that 50/80 is probably not a good tradeoff when your billed labor rate can be $100/hour.
You'll get the longest life out of discs from Sait, Weiler, Norton, Metabo, or other industrial supply brands. From the big box I notice Diablo does outlast Avanti. Honestly I've had pretty good luck with even Benchmark, which is a somewhat known but still cheap Amazon brand, on my 6" grinder. Doesn't last too long but good bang for the buck. Definitely had plenty of other cheap ones explode at the slightest flex, so they can be hit or miss.


THIS

Go to a professional/industrial welding supply shop and get some-

I like Weiler, Metabo Super Slicer, Radnor. Walter products are also very good.



The stuff from Benchmark is just homeowner grade stuff. No better than big box store stuff, just cheaper. Weil sait dewalt milfcky Diablo etc are all good.

HF ones in this case is nfg, the disc dust too much and disc life just sucked. When I cut up the steel bath tub 1/8 thick steel I think, the Diablo then used and hf one used Diablo last 3x longer than HF one and lot less dust.

This off brand is also very good, some Canadian guy here advertise it 2 or 3 years ago and I tried it. Its cut quality is comparable to dewalt and Diablo ones but priced a lot less at 1/3 cost. Ordered a second batch.


MITOLS 4 1/2 Cut Off Wheel - 25 PCS High Precision Ultra Thin Metal and Stainless Cutting Wheels for Angle Grinder, Type 1 0.045" Thick, 7/8" Arbor, 4-1/2" Diameter, Aluminum Oxide, RPM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P1N2F5J/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Probably you can find that post if you search MITOLS here