When selecting the air compressor that’s right for you, there are a variety of factors that you’ll need to consider; first and foremost, what job you need it to do.
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Whatever your requirements, we will have it in stock. It is just a matter of establishing which is going to work best for you. This guide covers everything from horsepower and air pressure to life expectancy.
Based on our extensive experience, the chances are whatever the size you choose, you’ll be glad you didn’t buy a smaller compressor.
Always refer to the manufacturer’s specifications for industrial equipment.
The majority of automotive air tools require around 10 CFM at 90 psi to keep them operating. Though for some tools – ratchets for example, which are often run sporadically – 5 CFM per tool should suffice.
For running tools continually, such as sanders, you’ll need at least 10 CFM. For this type of application, we’d advise a 16 CFM (at 90 PSI) compressor with a 65% duty cycle. This would give you just a little over 10 CFM persistently. This way, there’d be no waiting for air and no need for concern about overstraining the machine; at least, not if using a standard sander.
We always recommend purchasing a compressor that will run most of the 200-ish tools available as we’ve seen many customers use an air tool for the first time and want to use other tools in the same way.
Air pressure is most commonly measured in pounds per square inch (PSI). The majority of air tools require 90 PSI to operate efficiently, though you’ll need a compressor with a greater shut-off pressure.
Most industrial air compressors are two-stage, meaning they shut off pressure in two stages, the first building to around 90 PSI and the second to 175 PSI. Smaller compressors are single stage, shutting of at around 125-135 PSI.
Cubic Feet Per Minute (CFM) refers to the volume of air required to keep the compressor operating effectively.
For smaller compressors, 90 PSI is what you need to look out for, as this is what’s required to run the majority of tools. Like HP ratings, CFM ratings are often exaggerated. As a guide, you’ll get 3-4 CFM per real HP at 90 PSI.
Size isn’t necessarily important when it comes to the compressor tank. It stores the air; it doesn’t produce it. It’s a bigger pump and motor that you’ll need.
That said, there are times when you may be able to save money by purchasing a smaller compressor with a big tank, if you only use air sporadically. What do we mean by this? As an example, if your compressor produces 10 CFM continually, you can take 20 CFM out of the tank for half the time.
This means that if you’re using a 1” impact wrench irregularly at around 20 CFM, with a big tank, there may be enough air stored for you to repeat the task.
Instead, it may be that you’re looking to operate a tool steadily – say, a sander – in which case, you’ll want your machine to generate the amount of air you’ll need. A smaller tank will reach the required pressure more swiftly.
Whilst the horsepower rating should be a good indicator as to the size of compressor you need, it can’t be relied upon, alone.
Some compressors tend to be overrated, though as a guide, industrial compressors generally aren’t. This, of course, should only be used as a more general rule of thumb.
If you’re unsure, it will help if you look at the amount of electrical power a compressor uses. As an example, an accurately rated single phase power 5 HP motor will use around 24 amps on a 220 volt circuit; in comparison with the majority of overrated hobby machines which run on a standard 15 amp 110 volt circuit. These can realistically only manage running at around 2 HP.
How can you tell? If the machine can be plugged into a standard electric socket, then it’s going to be no more than 2 real HP.
When it comes to gas engine HP, the ratings differ. To give you some idea, a 10 HP gas compressor generates the same amount of air as an industrial 5 HP electric machine.
The terms ‘single-stage’ and ‘two-stage’ are bandied about a lot when it comes to air compressors. So, what do they mean?
Simply put, single-stage compressors are designed with one or more cylinder which pumps air straight into the tank.
Two-stage compressors are defined by having two or more cylinders. With these machines, the air is pumped from one cylinder to another before reaching the tank.
The latter is more appropriate for high pressure, though there aren’t an inordinate number of applications that need this.
Therefore, it is likely that you won’t need a two-stage compressor.
It is worth bearing in mind that a two-stage compressor isn’t necessarily going to be better than a single-stage one, in any case.
We recommend a reliable, good quality single-stage compressor for the majority of applications. Of course, there are times when this won’t be apt.
You can find some great compressors, in both direct drive and belt drive form. We do advise, however, on checking the quality of any direct-drive compressor before purchasing.
Look into factors such as life expectancy and noise levels.
We generally advise steering clear of high-speed oil-less compressors. Oil-less direct drive compressors are vital for some applications, such as breathing air or aeration.
There are some high-quality direct drive oil-lubricated compressors which work well for those in the construction industry. The fact that these machines are compact and portable means they can be transported from site to site.
If transportability isn’t important to you and you need greater volume of air, your most suitable compressor is likely to be a belt drive oil lubricated compressor. Again, keep an eye out for the product’s life expectancy with these. Though, generally speaking, they tend to be more efficient.
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The majority of belt drive compressors are splash lubricated, with dippers at the foot of the connecting rods which splash oil around in the crankcase. If used correctly – with plenty of oil – the splash lubricated pumps should have a good shelf-life. As long as you don’t need it to be portable, we recommend investing in a belt drive, oil lubricated compressor for best value.
Duty cycle is significant. What does it tell you? The duty cycle refers to the number of minutes the compressor can run in a 10-minute period.
A low-quality compressor will often have a 50% duty cycle, meaning it should run for no more than 5 minutes out of a 10 minutes period. For industrial compressors, aim for a 75% duty cycle at the very least. If you opt for one with a 100% duty cycle, you’ll be able to operate it continually.
If you have problems with moisture, it may help to know that compressed air gets hot and when cooled, water condenses from it. The more your compressor is used, the hotter it will get and the more moisture issues you are likely to be faced with. This can often be prevented by purchasing a larger compressor that doesn’t need to work so hard.
It may be that you’ve experienced intermittent moisture complications due to the humidity in the air. A standard moisture trap can help; its design means it collects water droplets as opposed to water vapour. The idea is to get the air as cool as you can before it reaches the moisture trap.
Refrigerated air dryers tend to be used for industrial applications.
Another option is desiccant dryers. These use a silica gel which, when saturated, can be heated or replaced.
For smaller products, a clever plumbing system may suffice. Aluminium or copper pipes won’t rust and will both disperse heat well. For larger appliances, this will act as a greater radiator and will be even more effective at cooling the air.
To fit, attach the trap at the end of the pipe, as close as you can to the apparatus and as far away as possible from the compressor.
Whilst you’ll want to drain your tank to prevent it rusting, it’s not necessary to do it continually – it’s highly unlikely to get into your air lines.
Depending on the type of product you buy, you can expect to see an increased shelf-life of up to 20%. And your pocket won’t be affected nearly as much as you think – if at all.
We always advise on not buying a compressor unless you know about its life expectancy first. It’s so important. In addition to saving money, you’ll be helping your environmental policy, as your product will be a sustainable one.
As a guide, we estimate that for every £1 you spend on your machine, you’ll be likely to save £2-3 long-term. When thinking about life expectancy, consider purchasing a larger compressor too. By staying cooler, it should last a lot longer – twice as long, even. It’s a no-brainer, isn’t it?
Whilst the majority of our guide relates to electric compressors, it may be that these aren’t what you need. For 25 HP and above, it’s worth looking into a screw-type machine.
For a constant low pressure and low volume supply, you’ll probably need a diaphragm compressor.
Then there are the rotary vane and regenerative blowers. These work well for specific applications (talk to us for more information), however reciprocating piston-type compressors often work out to be best value for money; they are suitable for most purposes.
If you need any more help or advice, speak to one of our specialists here at Multimax Direct. And please do feel free to download and keep this compact guide. Ready to buy? Our superb range of air compressors can be found below.
When it comes to buying an air compressor, especially a used one, there are many factors one must cover.
If you are in the market for an air compressor, I’m sure you know that there benefits of buying used instead of buying new. You also know the main reason is that those who had owned an air compressor may have outgrown it and in the end didn’t need it anymore or they were looking for an air compressor that was more powerful than their previous model. A big benefit to buying a used air compressor will indeed to come down to the price. Although you may consider purchasing an older model, you’ll get a really great deal compared to buying a newer model.
Here are things one must consider when it comes to buying a used air compressor:
If you are indoors then you will have no choice in going electric. The main reason to go electric than gas indoors is that they do not emit fumes. Outdoors, however, gas can be efficient and cheaper to run. Be careful though as the exhaust from the compressor can prove to be an issue. If going electric there are also some things to consider. Electric can also be nice for portable cases but holds the issue of needing a plug into a wall. The power you need from your compressor will determine how much voltage you need when plugged. Many household compressors use between 110-120 volts while a 2HP engine may require a 220-240 volt outlet.
Compressors that use pistons are either Single Stage or Two Stage pumps. Single-stage and two-stage compressors differ from the amount of PSI they can reach. A single-stage can reach 120 PSI while a two-stage can reach 150 PSI.
The Single stage works by sucking in air and compressing the air to the desired pressure in a single piston stroke. Single stage pistons can reach up to 150 Pounds per square inch (PSI). The cubic feet per minute (CFM) will typically be higher than on a two-stage as every stroke is compressing air.
A two-stage compressor works like a one stage compressor but it has two pistons firing one after the other. They compress air in stages instead of all at once. First, it is compressed then cooled and compressed again. These types of compressors can reach up to 200 PSI. They are also efficient because they cool the air between the stages which increases the density.
A benefit of two-stage compressors is that they can use their air pressure at any moment without losing the pressure. Two-stage is a bit more expensive but maybe worth the cost to you.
Depending on where you need to use the compressor you are either going to want a fixed or a portable one. A fixed air compressor is stationary and is usually bolted to the ground or foundation of a building to prevent movement. Portable compressors can be handy if you need to bring a compressor on site or need to move it around in some cases.
When compared to vehicles, air compressors can be measured by their horsepower (HP). This, however, can be misleading given that the amount of HP doesn’t always equal more compressed air.
Standard cubic feet per minute (SCFM) is a better measurement of performance as it measures the performance of the HP as not all motors are created equal.
For most instances, the engine size will be between the range of 1-2HP. Some industrial situations will call for 5HP or more but this will be only in special cases. HP, however, is not really the best indicator as to the strength of the air compressor. CFM (cubic feet per minute) gives you a better idea. This measures the volume of air that’s delivered from the device on a regular basis.
If noise is an issue then you may want to get an oil-lubricated compressor as they tend to rattle around a lot less and therefore tend to be quieter than those that are oil-free. Oil-free compressors though being less efficient, do have the benefit of being more versatile as they do not require a flat surface so that the oil can circulate properly.
We hope we explained in detail what to consider when buying an air compressor. At CFM PSI Air Compressors, we carry different brands of quality air compressors. These brands include Ingersoll Rand, Sullair, Atlas Copco, and Sullivan Palatek. If you’re looking to purchase our high-quality air compressors for your work projects, you can contact us at (714) 531 or us at .
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