Pulling nails isn't nearly as fun as driving them, and separating two pieces of wood nailed together can be a chore, but whether you're a building professional or a DIYer, you've undoubtedly had to do both plenty of times. For situations where nail heads are above the wood's surface, using your hammer's claw to pull the nails may work just fine. Likewise, the hammer claw may be all you need to pry apart two boards. Sometimes, though, you need to dig below the wood's surface to grab onto a nail or slide a tool delicately between a piece of molding and the wall. In these situations, you need a specialty tool. Although pulling nails and prying apart boards are different tasks, the tool used for both is often the same: some variation of a bar with one end designed for pulling nails and the other end designed for prying (and perhaps also for pulling nails). The vocabulary for this category of tools isn't precise, and manufacturers mix and match certain features on their nail-pulling and prying tools, but there are enough common characteristics that it's possible to put these tools into the groups described here. If you do demolition work of all sorts, you likely can put tools in all five groups to good use. If you only occasionally need to pry and pull, you may get all the power and finesse you need from just a couple of these tools.
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With a name like 'wrecking bar,' this tool is clearly not for delicate work. It's got a nail puller on one end and a prying wedge on the other. Big enough to handle extracting nails larger than 16d, it can also pry apart nailed pieces of framing lumber. Most wrecking bars are made from hexagonal stock for a more secure grip. Many refer to wrecking bars as crowbars, but crowbars are larger and may or may not include a nail puller.
Best uses: Heavy prying, removing large nails
Shown: True Temper, 30 in., $13
Don't confuse this with the upholstery tool of the same name. A job-site ripping chisel resembles a wrecking bar, but with some key differences. A ripping chisel widens and flattens out at the chisel end, making it able to slide easily under a loose board or piece of siding. This flat area also provides a place for the same type of teardrop-shape nail puller found on flat bars. Finally, the offset design provides more leverage when twist-prying.
Best uses: Sliding under and removing loose boards, twist-prying
Shown: Stanley, 17 in., $8
Claw bar Also called a cat's paw, a claw bar is a great tool for digging out embedded nails. Using a claw bar damages the wood around the nail, so you only want to use this tool in places where surface damage doesn't matter or can be repaired. One end has a curved claw with beveled edges designed to slide just under the head of an embedded nail when struck with a hammer. On a Japanese-style tool (shown), this claw is at a right angle to the handle, and the surface to be struck by the hammer is flat. The claw's sharp, beveled edges groove the nail's shank, providing extra purchase as well as a way of extracting finish nails and nails whose heads have popped off. The other end can have a simple beveled wedge for prying or another claw at a lower angle that allows for more-delicate nail removal; either way, it can be used for prying. This second claw is usually offset by 90° relative to the other claw to provide a wider surface for pushing. Claw-bar sizes vary, but most of them are able to handle digging out nails up to 16d. Some claw bars have a nail puller on one end and a rubber grip on the other. These are meant only for removing nails and not for prying.
Best uses: Removing embedded nails, light prying
Shown: Estwing, 12 in., $18
A flat bar is perhaps the most useful demolition tool. It can't dig out embedded nails like a claw bar, but it's meant for prying and for pulling all types of nails. In addition to being able to remove nails whose heads are at least slightly above the wood's surface, it's a great tool for removing plywood and clapboard siding. The design of the flat bar provides space for a nail puller of a different sort: a teardrop-shape opening near one end of the bar that grabs a nail and allows it to be removed by pulling up rather than pushing down.
Best uses: Removing small to medium nails, light to medium prying, removing plywood and siding
Shown: Stanley Wonder Bar, 12 in., $10
When a flat bar is still too fat to get behind a piece of trim without damaging it, you need a molding bar. The molding bar's prying end is especially thin and wide. The thin edge allows the tool to get behind a piece of trim without damaging it, and the wide surface spreads out the prying force, making it less likely that the piece will snap. There is often a slot at the end, which can be used to pull nails from the surface of the molding. The claw at the other end is usually similar to the distinctive claw on a Japanese-style cat's paw. Its flat edge provides a suitable striking surface.
Best uses: Separating trim from walls and siding, removing embedded nails
Shown: DeWalt, 10 in., $18
Photos: Rodney Diaz
Do you find yourself needing to pry things apart? How about levering, lifting, and pulling nails? If the answer is yes, then you are in need of a pry bar.
One of the first tools developed by humankind, the pry bar has been established as a versatile and necessary tool. Over time, many variations of the pry bar have been developed; now there is a plethora of styles and options on the market.
How does one select the right pry bar for the task at hand? Let's begin by defining what a pry bar is.
What is a Pry Bar?
A pry bar is a tool typically made from forged alloy steel that may have a flattened end, a claw, or pointed end.
The tool is quite versatile because the flattened end allows it to be used as a lever, the claw makes leverage easier, the pointed end is ideal for 'mating holes', and an end featuring a small crevice is used for removing nails.
Pry bars may be heat-treated and/or tempered before being coated to resist rusting.
It is important to note that the length of the pry bar is important. The golden rule is the heavier the object to be lifted, the longer the bar needs to be.
The pry bar has also been referred to by many different names, so don't be confused if someone calls the tool a 'jimmy', crowbar, wrecking bar, gooseneck, 'cat's paw', pinch bar ' or as Shakespeare referred to it, an iron crow.
Manufacturing Process
Pry bars are commonly made from carbon or alloy steel, depending on the style and manufacturer.
There are a variety of manufacturing methods used to produce a pry bar, including: swagging, hot stamping and machining. They then go through finishing steps, which may include stamping, polishing, heat treatment, shot blast, hand sharpening, and plating or painting. Pry bars that are heat treated are very strong and flexible to avoid breaking while in use.
While shopping around for your next pry bar, consider looking for a tool that is produced using the heat treatment process. The finish is also important to consider as it acts as a protective layer and increases the durability of the tool.
Some manufacturers pride themselves on hand polishing and sharpening the pry bars for a high quality finish; this is a positive that you may want to keep an eye out for. The finish commonly involves either a nickel strike finish or enamel tool paint and lacquer finish ' both can be very durable and add to the high quality tool.
Parts of a Pry Bar
There are many variations in design, below are the various features of a pry bar and some tips on the benefits of different styles.
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Shaft: comes in a variety of shapes and designs, each with its own benefits. A rounded shaft makes is easy to hold while a flat shaft is better for tighter spaces. Contour shaft curves back to increase leverage; hexagonal shaft has six sides for better grip and is great for levering. Finally, an I-beam shaft is lighter but very strong
Claw: just like the shaft, the claw design can vary depending on the type of pry bar and its functionality. A straight claw is a common feature for most bars, it is forged in line with the shaft. Bent claw increases leverage and decreases damage to the work piece. Beveled claw makes it easier to get beneath and between items. Flat claw increases leverage as it can be inserted deeper in tight spaces. Wide claw offers a larger surface area for prying.
Nail slot is a feature that makes removing a nail easier. An adjustable claw is very versatile as the angle of the claw can be adjusted and locked in place.
Tip: a pry bar may feature a second claw or it could have a pointed tip. The pointed tip is ideal for locating and aligning 'mating holes'.
Heel: can be flat or rounded. A flat heal can be used as a striking surface; a rounded heal increases leverage as it helps the claw rock back and forth
Handle: a pry bar may feature a handle on one end for a more comfortable grip.
Popular Types of Pry Bars
Next are the more popular types of pry bars. Keep in mind your needs and uses for the pry bar when selecting the right one for you.
Rolling Head Pry Bar: features the standard round shaft, pointed tip, and bent claw. Applications include simple prying, lifting and leveraging, locating and aligning applications.
Wonder Bar (Nail Puller): features a flat shaft, a right angle claw and one offset claw. The wonder bar is used when precision and control is needed for nail pulling, lifting, scraping, prying and levering. Ideal for a variety of house maintenance, construction, and demolition tasks.
Pinch Bar: features a round or hexagonal shaft, one chisel end and a pointed tip end. This is the longest and second heaviest pry bar manufactured. The pinch bar can be used to align mating holes, such as boltholes, by prying the holes into alignment. Secondary purpose would be levering and lifting objects.
Wrecking Bar: features a hexagonal shank, flat end claw and may also incorporate a goose neck claw. This pry bar design is used in heavy-duty prying applications and demolition work.
Railroad Track Pry Bar: features hexagonal shaft, a 45-degree claw end, and a pointed tip. As the name suggests, this pry bar ideal for railway track maintenance.
Adjustable Pry Bar: features an adjustable claw and may include an extendable shaft. A pry bar with an extendable shaft is the heaviest pry bar you can buy. Applications include more complex prying (i.e. in difficult, confined spaces or more tightly fastened objects), and levering and lifting larger items such as doors and floorboards.
Selecting a Pry Bar-Three Things to Consider
When selecting a pry bar, keep in mind the following points.
How to Properly Operate a Pry Bar
Before using a pry bar, it is first important to understand the proper way to use the tool to ensure your own physical safety.
To begin, check your tool and ensure the tool is not damaged or bent, using a damaged tool could increase the risk of breaking the tool and hurting yourself.
Next, be aware of your environment and check for factors that may create risk for you or others, for example physical hazards that could cause you to slip.
The grip on the pry bar is important, therefore wearing gloves that are dry and have grip material on the palms would be useful.
Further safety practices include wearing eye protection and a hard hat, especially important while prying items apart or pulling nails in case an item breaks off and flies towards you.
Never place an object under the shaft of the pry bar to in order generate additional leverage. Doing this manner creates a pressure fulcrum that places stress on the shaft of the pry bar resulting in a very unsafe user environment.
Finally, your posture while using the tool is critical for your physical well-being, especially if you are lifting heavier objects. Ensure your position is balanced: stand facing the bar with your legs shoulder-width apart and slightly bent, do not position your body directly over the bar, and grip the pry bar tightly with both hands.
If you have to bend to use the pry bar, for example while levering a heavy object, ensure that you bend at the knees while keeping your back straight to avoid injuring your back and hamstrings. If the item is too heavy or too large, make sure you ask for help before using the pry bar alone.
Pry Bar Maintenance and Care
Maintenance and care is important to remember to increase the longevity of the tool. Here are some tips to get the most out of your pry bar.
Remember, a good quality pry bar will bend slowly when it is stressed beyond its design capacity. A poor quality bar will snap unexpectedly creating a potentially dangerous situation.
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