5 Things to Know Before Buying high precision chuck

06, Aug. 2024

 

What makes a drill chuck good or bad



All seem to work well. The oldest have about .002 runout with the newest (Albrecht and Golden Goose having ales than .001 runout. All the chucks are ball bearing models which minimizes the torque needed to properly tighten a drill. It also minimizes the amount of wear done to the key holes in the body, the scroll, and the key itself.

I expected the quality of the Albrecht, Cushman's, and Jacobs in that they were all in the neighborhood of $300.00 to $400.00 new. The rebuild kits for the Jacobs N18's still cost a little less than $200.00 today. One of the clues as to whether or not a chuck is a higher quality model is the availability of a rebuild kit. Lower price chucks are generally considered a consumable, and therefore not rebuildable.

The quality of the Golden Goose chucks were a pleasant surprise. At that price point 30 years ago I was expecting much less. Unfortunately these chucks are no longer made. In the late 's a company from mainland China started counterfeiting them, and were turning out far inferior products. The company from Taiwan that was originally building them decided to stop production rather than compete with the counterfeits, and try to explain why there was such a difference in quality.

There are still some of the original Golden Goose chucks available from vendors and on eBay. However I would be very cautious when looking for one. If you can find one new in the box with a production date older than you can be relatively assured it's from the original manufacturer. The older packaging was a black and red box like this:

Golden Goose Drill Chuck Cap 13 M/m - #33jt Mount With Key for sale online | eBay

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The newer packaging is a yellow and green box. These are the ones of suspicious quality.

I have a number of chucks in the shop. The newest is probably 25 years old or older. The oldest are close to 100 years old. I only have 4 brand names, Jacobs, Albrecht, Cushman, and Golden Goose., The Cushman's are the oldest in that they were inherited from my wife's grandfather. I have both the keyed and keyless models. The most prolific are the Jacobs, there are probably a dozen or more, all of which are the keyed models. They range in age from 60+ years old to about 30 years old. I have only 1 Albrecht, and that's a keyless model, probably from the 's. The newest of the bunch are Golden Goose. They were made in Taiwan in the late 's. The Golden Goose were the least expensive at less than $100.00 per copyAll seem to work well. The oldest have about .002 runout with the newest (Albrecht and Golden Goose having ales than .001 runout. All the chucks are ball bearing models which minimizes the torque needed to properly tighten a drill. It also minimizes the amount of wear done to the key holes in the body, the scroll, and the key itself.I expected the quality of the Albrecht, Cushman's, and Jacobs in that they were all in the neighborhood of $300.00 to $400.00 new. The rebuild kits for the Jacobs N18's still cost a little less than $200.00 today. One of the clues as to whether or not a chuck is a higher quality model is the availability of a rebuild kit. Lower price chucks are generally considered a consumable, and therefore not rebuildable.The quality of the Golden Goose chucks were a pleasant surprise. At that price point 30 years ago I was expecting much less. Unfortunately these chucks are no longer made. In the late 's a company from mainland China started counterfeiting them, and were turning out far inferior products. The company from Taiwan that was originally building them decided to stop production rather than compete with the counterfeits, and try to explain why there was such a difference in quality.There are still some of the original Golden Goose chucks available from vendors and on eBay. However I would be very cautious when looking for one. If you can find one new in the box with a production date older than you can be relatively assured it's from the original manufacturer. The older packaging was a black and red box like this:The newer packaging is a yellow and green box. These are the ones of suspicious quality.

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Drill Chuck Quality

I kinda went nuts a while back on drill chucks. But I had gotten REALLY tired of spot drill, small drill, big drill, ream, repeat, repeat, repeat....

I looked and looked over a few months and couldn't find what I thought was a decent deal on a used 'as new' chuck for my mill and also wanted some good chucks for lathe and press. Finally bought the Rohm 1/2 from Enco's sale catalog and mounted it on an R8. Wonderful chuck in every way and very happy, but still wanted something for larger and smaller shanks. Then I found an 18N 'never mounted and as new other than shelf storage induced patina'. Got it for $75 and it turned out to be perfect needing only a little love with a Scotch-Brite pad. Figured that was good enough till I could find some smoking deals. Next thing I know, cheap chucks are everywhere I turn. Almost so bad I can't go to a public restroom without finding a Albrecht in the trash can. I've now got something like 4 near perfect Albrecht 1/2 chucks (2 on 1' shanks for my turret, 1 with MT2 in my press, and one MT3 for my lathe), and 3 more 3/8' Albrecht chucks to go through some day (one needs cleaning but otherwise good, one perfect shell with spun jaws, and a rusty shell with perfect jaws for a donor), 2 more 1/4" Albrechts (one on R8, the other not mounted) and even a 1/8' Albrecht currently unmounted. I think I've got less than $80 in all of them. Not to mention the 2 14Ns (1 old straight shell on MT2, and one bulb shell on 3/4 straight) and 2 more 18Ns (one has found life as a dedicated spindle mounted chuck on my ongoing grinder project, used for quick mounting various arbors for flap disks and the like). And as suggested, these SuperChucks can run reversed.

Like I said, it got out of hand, but I couldn't see passing given the prices I was finding. Once I get them all fixed/restored and mounted on appropriate arbors, I'll be set for quick changes between chucks with all sorts of mounted bits including a 'sensitive' mount on the 1/8' Albrecht chuck.

So what's my point? Mainly that the Rohm 1/2 chuck for ~$55 in the Enco catalog is hard to beat for a quick fix. But used is out there for a good price if you can wait. And most of my current crop of chucks have VERY little runout with the exception of a couple with spun jaws (that were bought for scrap price, so what the heck).

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