I don't know much about electrical, so can someone explain why this tool matters?
When I want to test a component like a motor, I currently use 2 long wires with clamps on one end. I hook them to the car battery, and I clip the other ends to my test lead kit. These leads plug onto the prongs of the motor.
If I want to measure voltage, like to test a switch to see if power is getting to the motor, I will just hook up a multimeter, and hook up leads to the switch. Then I press the switch, and see the reading on the multimeter.
How will the PP3 save me time or effort, if I still need to connect PP3 to the battery anyways? Seems like the same amount of work. What makes PP3 better than 2 long wires?
Do your jumper wires tell you voltage of the circuit going to the components you are testing? Do they tell you if you have a ground? Do they test the fuse of the circuit? The nice thing about it is it does all that AND powers or grounds a component. Also has a audible tone to differentiate power and ground.
So after you hook it up to the battery or 12 outlet it does the whole thing. You would need your jumper wires and a circuit tester
Do your jumper wires tell you voltage of the circuit going to the components you are testing? Do they tell you if you have a ground? Do they test the fuse of the circuit? The nice thing about it is it does all that AND powers or grounds a component. Also has a audible tone to differentiate power and ground.
So after you hook it up to the battery or 12 outlet it does the whole thing. You would need your jumper wires and a circuit tester
Thanks. I have never tested for ground, so I'm not qualified to understand why PP3 makes ground testing easier.
All I have ever done is 3 things:
1) test for continuity with my MM,
2) test for voltage with my MM,
3) use 2 long wires to power a device/motor.
It's one of those tools that's oriented toward a specific type of wrench turner - the flare rate mechanic. When time is money, the power probe rocks very very hard.
You can do everything it does with lengthy leads clipped to a battery, a multi meter, and a test light. But you need all three of those tools. The power probe nails all of those in one quickly employed tool.
Most outputs from a vehicles engine computer happen because it switches a ground to the circuit in question. Being able to selectively ground things quickly can really cut down on how long it takes to locate an obscure and complicated electrical problem.
Thanks. I have never tested for ground, so I'm not qualified to understand why PP3 makes ground testing easier.
All I have ever done is 3 things:
1) test for continuity with my MM,
2) test for voltage with my MM,
3) use 2 long wires to power a device/motor.
Yep you can do it that way too. In fact I do it that way most of the time. Now when I'm checking door lock motors window motors etc I bring out the Power Probe 3 first. Just because it does all that you listed in one tool. Now all that being said I do automotive electrical exclusively 6-7 days a week so the more testing tools I have at my disposal the better. I am sometimes working on 2-3 vehicles at once. Now just a weekend warrior type may not need it. But this is the GJ and the one with the most tools wins.
the power probe is an awesome tool, I would be not as happy of a person with out it. I have 2 of them, just the other day, I woke up and the weather man said "65 today", so I said, "I am taking the 32 vicky out today"...
I was cruising down the street with the windows down and it started to rain , went to put the windows up and nothing...
So I get home, dry off the gut, and check the fuses... You would think being a recently built hot rod with apinless wiring, all new components, and I always write myself directions/diagrams/keys to all my builds, nothing worse than forgetting how you ran a wire or what cam you put in the engine...
I have the book in the car so checked it out, still couldnt find the issue, so I grab the power probe, I took the switch out of the door, put th eprobe to it and hit the + the window went up!!! I checked the other side and had no power, so I went to the fuse box, had power there, and by my diagram it was a straight shot to the door switches, so I set up the wire tracer that comes with the pp3, 2 minutes later, found a broken wire...
Its just a handy tool to have..
One other thing - when you bring out a half dozen clip leads, your test light and a multimeter, then make all your test connections, you have a lot more that can go wrong. It's easy for a clip lead to pull off or connect to the next terminal or swing around and touch ground.
Exactly!
Power Probe is one of the best tools I've ever spent my money on. For a homeowner that only needs to test electrical things a few times a year, the Power Probe might be overkill, but for the guy who makes his living in a shop, the time saving and ease of use the PP gives you is well worth it.
A couple other things I like about the power probe that I like (I have the PP2, not 3):
1) It has a built in circuit breaker, in case you get a little too agressive with the thumb switch and hit the wrong thing or accidently short the probe tip on something.
2) It can act like a logic probe for things like injector pulse. You can put the tip on the negative lead of a fuel injector and listen for the tone to switch from high to low. This quickly verifies that the injectors have power, and the computer is controlling the injector.
Another recent post on Power Probe.......there are numerous problems with them when used
on modern vehicles if power or ground is applied to the wrong wire. A module or dash cluster or CAN BUS device can cost $$$$......DMM does not cause the problem and actually gives a value to be used in finding the problem and cause.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=
Not disagreeing at all about frying ECU's and such with a Power probe, but it can be done as easily with jumper wires/ete... Point being knowing what you are looking at and what you're doing is the most important thing. It's best exercise common sense when dealing with electrical & comm wiring.
I use my PP3 more as a glorified test light to check for power and ground or to apply either depending on what I'm doing. Component testing is another use I've had for it (testing various types of lights, trailer lights, cooler fans, ete..). Jumper wires work fine, but the Power probe makes testing easier/faster by being a neat little package instead of a mess of wires.
The first two iterations of the PowerProbe did not have any measurement capability. The PowerProbe 3 adds a DMM, which greatly expands its testing capability and makes it a far more useful too.
The PowerProbe 3 is a very useful tool for quickly measuring and testing what I like to call "power" circuits. Things like actuators, motors, and lights. The probe is also razor sharp, which is great for back probing and poking through wire insulation (without leaving a giant hole) to measure voltages. I also use it all the time to
measure(not apply power to) sensor voltages.
It's also just really nice having like 30 feet of cord, and not having to deal with jumper leads and test wires. The multimeter function of the PP3 is also really great, and it's super convenient having a ground-referenced DMM with a razor sharp point you can just quickly stick in connections and take measurements.
However the PowerProbe 3 isn't the end-all to electronics diagnostics though. It doesn't replace a proper standalone multimeter, it doesn't replace a test light, and you can also blow the ass out of computer circuits if you apply +12v to the wrong wire. But to be fair, you can also blow out computer circuits with standard test leads as well. The only two features I'd like PowerProbe to add would be a "high impedance" mode to limit power applied to the tip, and a power limited "5v" output mode to test sensor circuits.
IMO, the PP3 is a tool worth owning. It doesn't do everything, but it offers a ton of convenience and speed. Just make sure you double check and know what you're doing before applying power/ground to a circuit. I don't use mine that often, but I am super glad I have it when I do.
The first two iterations of the PowerProbe did not have any measurement capability. The PowerProbe 3 adds a DMM, which greatly expands its testing capability and makes it a far more useful too.
The PowerProbe 3 is a very useful tool for quickly measuring and testing what I like to call "power" circuits. Things like actuators, motors, and lights. The probe is also razor sharp, which is great for back probing and poking through wire insulation (without leaving a giant hole) to measure voltages. I also use it all the time to measure(not apply power to) sensor voltages.
It's also just really nice having like 30 feet of cord, and not having to deal with jumper leads and test wires. The multimeter function of the PP3 is also really great, and it's super convenient having a ground-referenced DMM with a razor sharp point you can just quickly stick in connections and take measurements.
However the PowerProbe 3 isn't the end-all to electronics diagnostics though. It doesn't replace a proper standalone multimeter, it doesn't replace a test light, and you can also blow the ass out of computer circuits if you apply +12v to the wrong wire. But to be fair, you can also blow out computer circuits with standard test leads as well. The only two features I'd like PowerProbe to add would be a "high impedance" mode to limit power applied to the tip, and a power limited "5v" output mode to test sensor circuits.
IMO, the PP3 is a tool worth owning. It doesn't do everything, but it offers a ton of convenience and speed. Just make sure you double check and know what you're doing before applying power/ground to a circuit. I don't use mine that often, but I am super glad I have it when I do.
+1
5v adapter...
https://www.tooltopia.com/power-probe-ppt5va.aspx
I'm seeing prices all over, from $67 to $249. What are the major differences? Which is the best deal? Which to avoid? Why do sellers think used ones are worth $115?
jack vines
There's several different kits, some with a multimeter, some with the ECT, some with upgraded probe kits.
I think you'll do best to just get the basic version in the clamshell packaging, then get an extension and a cigarette lighter adapter.
Tooldiscounter.com probably has the best deal, but you'll wait, and wait. Check their price, if Amazon is within a few bucks just go that way if you want it sooner.
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If you are smart you aren't going to cause any harm. I believe you can trip the breaker on a PP3 as a safety.
It not enough to be smart.....careful and precision........one wire cavity to the left or right of the target under the dash in cramped confined area.........you can make toast.
Miss ID a wire your looking for a yellow with red trace........yellow with a brown trace is near by........chose the wrong one ........oops
Grounding a CANBUS wire usually no harm no foul ( communication just shuts down until the ground is removed) .....put 12v on that same CANBUS wire maybe you have just created a mess. $$$$ Applying power is the real issue with the PP. The fuse has no protection in this error.
PP are not forgiving.........It is very difficult to cause a problem witha DMM.
One of the all time favorite f ups..........power probe and SRS ( airbag) wiring.
The power probe simplifies breaking out jumpers and a test light. Anything difficult I have to break out the fluke meter anyway but it saves time on testing basic stuff.
Besides, mine has 50' of quick connect cable, so I can hook to the batteries on a tractor and reach the rear of the trailer to test lights that are out. I can test for and apply ground or power to isolate the problem quickly. You can screw things up just as bad or worse probing circuits with jumper wires that usually have NO FUSE for protection. The power probe is fused at least so you cant send much more juice than it takes to power a headlight bulb before it trips. Besides if you dont know what a particular wire is for you shouldnt be sticking power to it anyway...
Wait, what.
I worked with a guy like that, he couldn't seem to get the whole concept of continuity... Fortunately he did heavy line, and left the electrical stuff to others. But that type of tech is falling by the wayside as newer cars get more and more connected. I am teaching my lubies the basics of real world electrical diagnosis using the tools that are available and in common use including the evil powerprobe. Sure it's possible to smoke components if you push the wrong button at the wrong time, but any tool can be misused by someone unfamiliar with it. Had a discussion with an instructor at the local GM training center last week regarding this very subject. He agreed that in principle, the use of aftermarket tools such as the pp should be taught, in practice, his curriculum was set by the people in Detroit who have a bit of a 'not invented here' mentality. The idea that techs are too stupid to use a tool like this but are smart enough to diagnose modern electronics confuses me.