Oil Well Drill Pipe Threads

Not all down-hole connections are tapered thread. One of the more difficult threads to counterfeit is the CS Hydril. Until the early 80's they had to be purchased from Hydril to have any assurance of proper performance. This thread consists of two modified buttress threads of different diameters. They are cut in phase with each other. there is a torque shoulder between them. Both threads are higbyed. The higbys and pull-outs are in line. The front of the pin has a double taper. At the rear of the pin is an angular undercut. The box also has double threads and the torque shoulder between. The rear of the box has a single angle that receives the intersection of the double tapers on the front of the pin. The front of the box has an externally tapered lip that locks under the undercut at the rear of the pin.

The connection is difficult to gage. Most connections having tapered threads are checked for standoff between box and pin. This does not tell the whole story with the CS Hydril. It torques up at the shoulders in between the large and small threads. Further torque stretches the outer end of the box and pin until they make up against corresponding surfaces.

Back in I got caught counterfeiting this "proprietary" thread. Until then Hydril didn't worry about it because it was considered impossible to do it on a lathe so that the connections would pass a hydrostat. I figured how to do it on a Mazak Powermaster. No hob needed any more. Along comes the friendly Mazak rep with a guy from Hydril who says all will be forgiven if I just show how I did it. Next thing I know, my boss complains that Mazak has sold lathes to Hydril so they can try cutting their connections the easy way. Fortunately, he was pretty much out of the pipe business and doing fishing tools, shock subs and jars. I left the oil patch shortly after and lost touch with that world. I wonder if any of you can tell me if Hydril now does their connections with a lathe or did they stick with hobbing?

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iknow

Posted 4/16/ 15:51 (#)
Subject: Recase a water well

The dry wx is getting to us. Have an old well that
We have not used since a kid. We tested and it
Was 70 foot deep with about 25 foot of water.
It is an old well, they used 6 inch steel.

I might need to use it but not in the mood
(and neither is the bookkeeping director)
of spending several grand to pull and
Recase.
It's been years since I pulled a well.
Finally tracked down my old pulling
Stuff.

Now the part I don't know much about,
Recase a well. I wanted 5 inch pipe
But none. I was told 4 inch OK since
A 12volt submerged pump will work.
The the pipe...sch 40 or sch 40 solid or
Sch 80 ?
I was told to put a stick or two of perforated
Pipe at the bottom. Then was told no
Want solid so "water will go up pipe.
On person said put a plug on the bottom
St stop it from sinking....another said
No need

Thank for your replies


linsal

Posted 4/16/ 18:00 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Recase a water well

Richland Center, Wi

A few questions:

1. Are you planning to use the water for livestock, humans or both?
2. Are you sure the metal casing is bad?
3. I've read where guys put 4" PVC down an existing well.

These guys have a lot of stuff...you might want to look over their website.

http://www.deanbennett.com/ IKS

Posted 4/16/ 18:45 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Recase a water well

Land of the Living Sky , SW Cornr

Before you do anything extreme IMO you should drop a pump in and limit the out put to 1 gallon per minute pump at that rate for a while and see where the static level drops to that should tell you if the well has any capacity to mess with . If it holds close open your valve a bit and keep doing that until the well won't keep up. If it won't produce , dropping a liner in won't help . As far as trying to pull the casing ,you are a far more determined man than I am there are to many unknowns in that venture. paul the original

Posted 4/16/ 20:48 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Recase a water well

southern MN

Can't do anything like that in my county of my state! New well need to be is it 20 feet away from the old one. Old one has to be sealed by a licence pro.

Paul farmer45

Posted 4/16/ 21:24 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Recase a water well

Washington Co Ks

Are you sure that it needs recased? With a four inch casing you will be limited in what pump will fit down the hole. I have a well on a place that I rent that has a four inch casing and can't find a submersible pump that will fit. As far as pulling a seventy foot well I wish that was all that I had to pull. I have two well that are two hundred ft deep. The one on the rented place is one hundred forty ft deep. That takes a lot of pull to get the first pipes out especially if full of water. Shortone

Posted 4/16/ 22:05 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Recase a water well

Sw mn

I have a 4" steel case well when we pulled the pump Jack and put in a submersible pump we had to go to a 3" pump at 5 gpm. This pump is about five times the money as a normal well pump around here. My well is about 200' and puts out 0.4 gpm if the well is run constant for a week.

The only reason I would recase a well is if the old case is failing. iknow

Posted 4/16/ 22:07 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Recase a water well

If you want to learn more, please visit our website Threaded Water Well Drill Pipe.

fairmer you might look at advanced power at look at their SR-2 or PR-2...they are 3 1/2 inches across...specs say 4 inch minium pipe.
I thinking that is what we will use. granted it's not the biggest pump, but start pumping in the morning and go until night, will pump some.
I think it's rated down to almost 200 foot.
Think they are about $800, and includes 100 or power cord.

yep, I've gotten in on a few of those deep ones......had to make sure you put a good wood post across the windmill tower.....and hope
some of the old bolts on the tower didn't break !!

our old block and tackle had 1 inch rope and had several pulleys on it, so made things a bit easier.

oh one of the fellows......no i'm not going to pull the casing out, just the pipes in the well.

I guess the reason I want the well recased, I've known several people that did the same thing, all of a sudden, she caved in. if we have
a fairly good well, need to get some pvc pipe down asap.

oh, farmer, there is another pump that is made, that is long and skinny.....but will scare the crap out of you to price.

grundfos has units that will fit into a 2.99 in minium bore diameter pipe.....and I think in excess of $ tho.
good luck gene_champ

Posted 4/16/ 22:56 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Recase a water well

NC Iowa

I put a 3 1/2" grundfos pump down a 4" casing. I think that size submersible pump is fairly new. Be sure to set it so it does not pump to exceed the well capacity so it won't pump dry.

I did it to get more capacity and pressure than the old jet pump. I am at about 15 gallons per minute max at 50 psi.

Edited by gene_champ 4/16/ 23:01

Ranchkid

Posted 4/17/ 17:36 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Recase a water well

TX - WY - NM

Don't know where you're located, but in some states you must get a licensed well driller/pump installer to rehab your well

Southern Farmer

Posted 4/17/ 18:14 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Recase a water well

West Texas

West Texas

When I bought this farm it had an old well on it. I tied a 4" pump on a rope and tried to go downhole. About 20 foot was all I could get so I bought some 3" PVC, cut it into 10' joints and used a sledge hammer to drive it into the hole. Then bought a 2" submersible pump and run it in the ground. This was after I had already drilled a new well. The 2" pump at 120' would pump about 7 gallons a minute. When it finally quit after 15years, I never replaced it. still in the hole.

Wheat77

Posted 4/17/ 18:33 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Recase a water well

Lots of suggestions here, and here is my experience in the past few weeks. Our 50 yr. old 4" well
would not flow, so we had to have it acidized to clean the bottom 10ft. of screen that had corroded over
the years. We tested it at only 1-2 gal. per minute before treatment. Installed a new submersible
pump, now pumps at over 20 GPM.
So that means you have to have a well casing that will pass water, dropping a new smaller pipe in a
plugged up well will give you nothing.
Well drillers will not redrill or recase a well, you are on your own. That is the law in most states.
If you cannot save that well, you will have to drill a new one. Bruised Spud

Posted 4/17/ 19:51 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Recase a water well

Chaffee, Western New York

For more Trailer-mounted drilling rigsinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.

I have a 100+ year old well that clogged itself with rust falling to the bottom. Having a windmill tower, power line and trees limiting access for a driller to come in and run a drill string to the bottom and use air to blast everything clear.

I filled a gal fertilizer tank with water and bought a Coil of 2" flexible hose long enough to reach the bottom. It was a struggle but managed to get the 2" to the bottom and hooked up to the suction side of a Honda pump. By filling the well to the top with the tank water the Honda was able to pull off the bottom and sucked up 20+ gallons of rust. Once the well was unplugged it took a lot of flow to keep up with what was flowing through the pump and out into the aquifer. That was five years ago.