This is a question our experts keep getting from time to time. Now, we have got the complete detailed explanation and answer for everyone, who is interested!
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There are two types of flux-cored wires — gas shielded and self-shielded. Gas-shielded flux-cored wires require external shielding gas, and the slag is easy to remove. Consider using gas-shielded flux-cored wires when welding on thicker metals or in out-of-position applications.
1. What does the 6 stand for in ER70S-6?
As an example, for a commonly used solid wire — AWS ER70S-6 — the “ER” indicates that the filler metal is an electrode or rod; the “70” signifies that it has a tensile strength of 70,000 pounds per square inch (psi), and the “S” means that it is a solid wire.
2. What is the difference between ER70S2 and ER70S-6?
Both the wires can be used for similar jobs due to their identical capabilities. The major difference between the two products is prominent when the user is operating on contaminated or rusted surfaces, in which case the ER70S6 provides better penetration and higher quality of welds.
3. Is flux core wire good?
The LINCOLN ELECTRIC NR-211 flux-core wire is a good quality reel that, when welding, cools quickly to keep heat out of your project. It also produces very minimally spatter. The slag has good coverage but is easily removed, making cleanup a breeze. Unfortunately, the range is very small.
4. Does flux core wire go bad?
Flux core wire is not solid, so contaminants such as moisture can enter the wire. So, if flux core wires are exposed to moisture for a long time, they will go bad. ... While flux core wire can go bad, it does not merely go bad for no reason or without any signs.
5. Can you use flux-cored wire with gas?
You can use gas with a regular flux core, but it is a total waste of gas. The flux in dual shield wire doesn't shield the weld, it causes better deposition rates and weld characteristics in the weld. Gas is needed with a dual shield to shield the weld, but not with flux cored.
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6. What's the difference between .30 and .35 flux wire?
A flux core wire that features a 035 electrode implies that it is thicker than one, which measures 035 by. 005 inches. ... The thicker the diameter of a wire, the deeper the penetration. While 035 flux core wires work well with 250 V machines, 030 flux-cored wires deliver great performance when used with 210 V machines.
Flux Cored Wire Gas-shielded
7. How do I choose flux core wire?
030-inch diameter is a good all-around choice for welding a wide range of metal thicknesses. For welding thicker material at higher total heat levels, use. 035-inch wire (or . 045-inch wire if it's within your welder's output range).
8. What is the most preferred MIG wire solid or flux core?
The first reason why you may prefer gas-shielded solid core wire for MIG welding is the most obvious: You don't have to clean up the flux when you're done welding. The shielding gas saves you a clean-up step and helps you immediately create a clean weld.
9. How can you tell the difference between flux core and solid wire?
Solid wire provides deep penetration in the root and usually has little spatter. Flux-cored wire has a larger ball-type transfer and produces low spatter levels. In addition, flux-cored wire produces a rounder penetration profile with excellent sidewall fusion.
10. Can I use solid wire without gas?
While solid MIG wire requires a shielding gas to protect the weld, typically a mix of Argon and CO2, there's also flux-cored MIG wire that shields the weld on its own without the help of gas.
11. How long can you store flux core wire?
Flux cored wire should not be stored for more than 5 years. The older wire should be redried before use. Storeroom temperature should be kept as even as possible, temperature variations should not exceed ± 5°C.
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So following on from this thread:
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum...a-budget-mig-welder-for-infrequent-use./
I took the last posts advice and bought a 2nd hand Clarke 151en.
The project I have bought the welder for is all 3mm steel - so I figure it's best to learn on this gauge material. I bought some plate to practice on until I am able to produce a decent enough weld.
I am using the setting details on page 29 of the units manual:
https://www.clarkeservice.co.uk/manuals/mig_welders/mig90en_151en.pdf
I've done a lot of read and watching videos on mig/flux cored welding and I have been trying to do some simple Tee joins.
One source I saw said that I should try and do a continuous 'e' shape whilst I pull back across the work piece.
However when I did this I got a lot of splatter (but that could be normal for flux cored??), my grips and magnets are now covered in beads, and I also don't think that I had a good slag coverage.
Should I drop the 'e' shape and just try and get a straight line weld squared away first?
And if I do that and still don't get good slag coverage after that are there any settings on the machines I could alter? (wire speed?)
did you change the polarity? solid wire with gas uses electrode positive, and fluxcore 99.99% of the time uses electrode negative.
nearly EVERYONE misses this absolutely BASIC thing and writes fluxcore off as messy and spattery.
some cheaper welders are a pain to swap polarity on, too, you may need to open that case up... but you'll never make a proper weld with it otherwise.
Also, fluxcore uses less voltage than you'd expect. too much will make it spatter.
did you change the polarity? solid wire with gas uses electrode positive, and fluxcore 99.99% of the time uses electrode negative.
Yep, and on the Clarke 151en it's obvious and easy to change (the electrode terminals are external)
Also, fluxcore uses less voltage than you'd expect. too much will make it spatter.
Hmm, I am just a bit confused as the manual for the welder seems to suggest otherwise.
Ok, I've just done some 'straight line' test welds using "A-3-MIN with wirespeed 4.5 (A3Min4.5)" and "A-3-MAX with wirespeed 7 (A3Max7)"
These are the results:
Straight beads on 3mm mild steel plate:
The top two are A3Min4.5 and the bottom two are A3Max7. The lower settings are definitely easier to control because it's a finer line being produce. The different between drawing a line with a pencil and a wax crayon.
The reverse side of that plate:
However, when I came to welding a Tee joint the results where as follows:
A3Min4.5
And:
A3Max7
So from my perspective the first first one isn't even a joint, its just a huge mess (ok they're both ugly) whereas at least with the A3Max7 there is something that resembles a seam.
Any thoughts?
first pic first line you was rushing due to its brightness of welding 2nd line more spot on
3rd and 4th line too much weld
tee piece it apears that you have drifted as you went along it
also looks like your rushing
my settings are only a guide you can vary the wire speed to your own liking
id have gone too a2 max speed 4/5 before id have jumped to a3 max speed 7
everything on this is with a clake 150 or sip 150 gasless welding 3mm and 5mm steel
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/first-build-rocket-burner./#post-
with 151 theres 2 models
blue model you need to switch it down to get 2 and 3 so it would be min a2/3 max a2/3
with the red one its just switch the switches to get 1/2/3 set on min or max
so heres a quick guide for the 151
this is how i see it as reference points for clarke 150/151
done by sheet steel thickness
1 Min 0.8 sheet
A 2 Min 1/2mm
A 3 Min 2mm/3mm
1 Max 2mm/3mm
A 2 Max 4mm
A 3 Max 5mm
then adjust your wire speed to suit i set mine around 4/5 and adjust from there on any sheet thickness
with 151 theres 2 models
I have the 151en Turbo. That's the blue one with switches.
So hang on here, What is the order of the powers.
Is it, from lowest to highest:
1 Min
A 2 Min
A 3 Min
1 Max
A 2 Max
A 3 Max
first pic first line you was rushing due to its brightness of welding 2nd line more spot on
When you say brightness, are you literally referring to how shiney it is?
I will do some more practices with a3min and try another tee piece but slow it right down. I clearly did drift a bit but I think I was just following the weld pool.
On the higher setting the weld pool felt as though it was getting 'sucked' towards the join (probably because of the faster wire speed) whereas the slower one it felt was though it just fell onto the parent piece with gravity.
You will eventually blow through the metal but its a simple fix to weld the burn through back up once you let the steel cool down.
Its not a race so slow down your travel speed and use the settings in the top T piece. Slowing down will let you get the weld into the joint much easier and much more controlled.
As you are a beginner blow through are enivetable.
Why not let people know where you are in the UK and someone maybe close enough to pop round or you go to them to give you a few pointers. Half hour with someone who knows whats, what will make a big difference to you.
Its not a race so slow down your travel speed and use the settings in the top T piece. Slowing down will let you get the weld into the joint much easier and much more controlled.
Ok, I'll try that tonight and report back.
Why not let people know where you are in the UK and someone maybe close enough to pop round or you go to them to give you a few pointers. Half hour with someone who knows whats, what will make a big difference to you.
I am in the High Peak area, between Manchester and Buxton.
I'd love to be shown if anybody is local and willing - I also don't mind travelling with my equipment anyone who is a bit further a field.