If you want to play better golf, you need to play the right shafts. As you’ll learn today, that might mean swapping to lighter weights in graphite shafts. It’s time to drop the ego and use shafts that are right for your game.
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Let’s face it, golf isn’t getting any easier and playing stiff, heavy, steel shafts isn’t helping most players. Especially everyday amateurs who only get out a few times per month and rarely practice. Yet, despite the mountain of data that shows the benefits of playing graphite, some golfers just won’t make the switch.
Here’s a fact that might help you finally drop the stigma of using graphite once and for all. Bryson DeChambeau, the longest hitter on the PGA Tour in (before switching to LIV Golf), uses graphite shaft irons. Not only does he hit bombs with his driver, but he also hits his irons insanely long too.
Needless to say, if the longest hitter uses graphite shafts, maybe you could benefit too. If you’ve thought about switching and weighing the pros/cons of graphite vs. steel shafts, this article will give you all the information you need.
Picking the right shaft for your irons, woods, and wedges has a massive impact on your ball flight and overall performance. Far too many golfers spend all their time and energy picking the right clubhead and settle for a generic shaft.
I would argue that playing the correct shaft is just as important as the clubheads themselves.
Do not settle for any old golf shafts… especially if you’re a mid to low handicap golfer. The littlest things can make the biggest difference in your ball striking, confidence, and overall performance.
Let’s break down the type of golf shafts available and see which one is right for your game.
Before getting into all things about steel shafts, don’t forget that golfers originally played with wooden shafts. Old-school shafts were ash or apple and hickory shafts became the rave soon after.
BC Golf House found that, “Around clubmakers introduced hickory for making golf shafts. This wood proved to be more durable than the ash, apple, and beech wood that were being used. The process to make a golf shaft began by fastening a one inch square piece of hickory about four feet long in a lathe.
Soon the spinning rectangular piece became a round spindle about ¾ inch in diameter. Finally, the clubmaker tapered one end to fit into the clubhead hosel.”
This type of shaft was used for a century before clubmakers found the next great invention – steel iron shafts.
Did you know that the steel golf shaft has been around for nearly 100 years? While the original players of this sport used wooden shafts (which most of us can’t even imagine playing with), the R&A legalized the switch in .
According to Golf College, “Around the steel shaft was introduced in the United States, although blacksmiths had experimented with them since the late ’s. The R&A finally legalized the use of steel shafted clubs after the Prince of Wales used them on the Old Course at St Andrews in .”
Golfers found that switching from wooden shafts to steel helped improve accuracy, distance, and durability.
The biggest benefit for steel shafts for most golfers is that you feel more vibrations with each swing. You get more immediate feedback on the shot, which helps you alter your setup or swing to hit your desired shot. But beginners won’t enjoy the vibrations if they hit it badly, especially in cold weather.
Another big benefit to steel is that they’re heavier, which means a tighter shot dispersion. Essentially, your misses are in a smaller window than when you play lighter, graphite shafts. Steel shafts can weigh 1.5 to 2X what graphite shafts weigh, which also makes it easier to hit knockdown shots for optimal control.
They’re also usually cheaper than graphite shafts as they cost less to produce. If you’re looking to save money, steel is usually the way to go. Plus, they’re more durable and rarely, if ever, do you need to replace.
Overall, steel shafts are better for more advanced golfers with high swing speeds and a consistent overall swing. But as you’ll see in the next section, even some of the top guys in the world are now using graphite shaft irons.
Steel shafts are heavier than graphite and tend to weigh 120 grams or more per shaft. There are some lighter options now in the 100-110 gram range and some go as high as 140 grams.
The flex of steel shaft varies from regular to X-stiff and changes from manufacturer to manufacturer. Go here to learn more about regular vs stiff shaft flex and if you have a slower swing speed the senior flex shaft.
In today’s modern golf era, technology continues to change and innovate at a rapid pace. Despite steel being used for nearly a century, it’s still very common to see players using them on the golf course.
Most high handicappers should avoid steel shafts entirely as they’re too heavy and hard to hit. According toGolf.com, “Tim Briand of True Spec Golf, approximately 75% of players he fits have the wrong shafts in their irons, the majority of which are too heavy and too stiff.”
But mid to lower handicap golfers prefer steel in their irons to help with control.
Professional golfers pretty much all play steel shafts in their irons with a few exceptions. They are the most consistent players on the planet and benefit from steel shafts as it helps with shot shaping and distance control.
Regardless of handicap, pretty much every golfer now plays graphite shafts in their woods though.
Now that you have a better understanding of steel shafts, let’s get into all things graphite.
According to the same Golf College article, “In the graphite shaft was introduced which provided more rigidity, lightness and increased strength over the steel shafts. The more modern graphite shafts are manufactured with different materials to improve performance, such as boron to reduce twisting.”
While players were quick to make the switch from wooden to steel, the switch from steel to graphite wasn’t quite as fast. Heck, I still remember Tiger Woods in the early s swinging a steel shafted driver and making it look easy (he was also the longest hitter of any PGA Tour player).
But eventually, pros and amateurs saw the light and started to switch to graphite. Now, graphite is more common for everyday golfers while professionals tend to only use them in their woods.
So, why did so many people make the switch from steel to graphite shafts? Because there are a ton of benefits – all of which make this complex game a little easier.
The first reason graphite shafts became popular was because they were so much lighter than steel irons. It’s not uncommon for steel shafts to weigh twice as much as graphite shafts. Heavier weights are harder to swing faster!
For a lot of golfers, switching to a lighter graphite shaft instantly added distance thanks to a faster swing speed. Since the club is significantly lighter, it’s much easier to swing faster and increase total distance (especially for high handicap golfers)
The second benefit of a graphite shaft is that you tend to get a higher ball flight. This will help with longer clubs and overall, make it easier to hold the green more often.
Another unlikely benefit is that graphite shafts are simply easier on your joints. That’s right, there are health benefits aside from increased swing speed.
According toGolf.com, “A lot of graphite products perform like steel but offer some hidden benefits like vibration-reducing technology that’ll reduce wear and tear on your joints during those lengthy practice sessions.
I realize there’s a stigma attached to graphite, but you need to stop thinking of them as a product for your grandpa.” They even mentioned that Bryson DeChambeau and Abraham Ancer use graphite shafts in their irons.
Graphite shafts are much lighter than steel and can range from 50-90 grams. There are a lot more customization options with flex, color, shaft tip, and more.
Since these shafts are so much lighter than steel, they are best for everyday golfers, senior players, and women.
While most golfers should play graphite shafts for a variety of reasons, there is now a new option known as multi-material shafts. These use multiple materials/composite materials for a truly custom shaft. You get the best of both worlds with these as the majority of the shaft is steel, while the tip is graphite.
With a partly steel, partly graphite shaft you get the control of steel and the distance of graphite. Plus, they have built-in vibration-reducing technology to avoid any unwanted vibrations. It’s truly a win-win and something that I could see gaining popularity in the future for low handicap golfers.
Now that you have all this information, let’s talk about how to make sure your shafts are setting you up for success.
For starters, you want to think about shafts for your woods, irons, and wedges. It’s not uncommon for all of them to be different weights and possibly different manufacturers. However, the flex of the shaft typically doesn’t change much.
For example, here’s my bag setup to show how the shaft weight changes depending on the club. I use graphite golf shafts in my woods, steel shaft irons, and steel shaft wedges.
Your driver should be your lightest club in the bag, typically between 45-75 grams depending on skill level and swing speed. Your fairway woods will typically be slightly heavier (as you can see, my 3-wood is 10 grams more) and work your way up to irons.
Picking your wood shafts are pretty straightforward compared to irons as pretty much every golfer plays graphite shafts. But with irons, you need to decide if graphite, steel, or possibly a multi-material shaft is right for you.
Finally, don’t forget to check your wedge shafts too. It’s not uncommon to have your wedges as the heaviest shafts in your bag. A heavier wedge shaft makes it easier to flight shots down and take off distance when you’re between clubs.
Deciding between graphite and steel is one thing, but figuring out the flex of the shaft is another issue. There are tons of different options for shaft stiffness and it ultimately depends on your swing speed. The faster you swing the golf club (aka more club head speed), the more flex you need vs. slower swing speeds need more flex.
To find the right flex, it’s common to hit a golf ball with your driver to monitor carry distance, ball speed, clubhead speed, and other data factors. Here’s a breakdown based on amateur golfers fromGolf.com.
Read our article on when you need a stiff shaft.
As you can tell, there is a lot that goes into finding the right golf equipment for your game. If you feel overwhelmed by this process or don’t have your own launch monitor, it’s not a bad idea to do a custom fitting. This usually lasts 1-2 hours where you hit your clubs vs. new clubs and different shafts to see distance, spin, accuracy, and tons more metrics.
Custom fittings don’t cost that much ($100-$300 depending on the type of fitting/number of clubs) and are worth it. Remember, the wrong golf shaft or wrong shaft material can make a big difference in your game. Make golf easier by playing the right golf clubs!
Go here to read our full article on club fitting.
Still have questions about the best shafts for your game? Keep reading to learn even more about picking the right shafts for better golf.
It’s best to play shafts that match your skill level and swing speed. Some players will benefit greatly from playing graphite shafts while others need to play steel shafts.
Yes, graphite shafts make a huge difference in your game. Switching from steel to graphite iron shafts can help you add distance, hit it higher, and increase your swing speed. While graphite shafts cost more, they’re a great investment in your game.
Pro golfers tend to use a graphite shaft only in their driver, fairway woods, hybrids, and possibly some utility irons. Composite shafts help with hard to hit clubs like long irons, which even the best players in the world struggle with at times.
These players tend to use heavier graphite shafts than most everyday golfers and ones that are much stiffer too. The majority of PGA Tour and LIV golfers swing X-stiff or even TX (which is a special, Tour Stiff shaft).
Since steel shafts tend to provide more feedback, most PGA Tour players opt for them in their wedges and irons.
Tiger now uses both steel and graphite shafts. He uses steel shafts in his irons and wedges with graphite shafts in his woods like most professionals. His fast swing speed allows him to play incredibly stiff shafts too.
But I can still remember Tiger in his prime swinging heavy steel shafts not only in his 3 wood but also his driver. In he finally made the switch from steel to graphite in his driver.
Not only did he hit a steel shafted driver, he hit it extremely hard and was the longest hitter on tour. Most players in today’s modern game of golf can’t even comprehend doing that today.
However, Tiger was also one of the first players to start making golf workouts a normal part of the game. That being said, we don’t recommend swinging steel shafted woods anymore. It only makes the game more challenging and isn’t necessary with new technology.
For more information, please visit graphite target.
It depends on your swing speed, current clubs, trajectory, and more. Most golfers would benefit from playing graphite shafts as they’re lighter, easier to hit, and tend to produce a higher ball flight. In the past, graphite shafts weren’t as accurate but as technology has evolved, you’re not sacrificing much now.
There’s no specific time to switch – for example, saying you’re 60 years old then you need to get graphite iron shafts. Instead, it’s about monitoring your swing, score, and ultimately your golf goals.
Some players can swing steel shafts their entire life while others prefer graphite from a younger age. There’s a lot of personal preference when it comes to picking the right shaft so do what’s best for your game, no one else.
Golf injuries are no joke. If you’re suffering from a back injury or have a lot of stiffness from golf, graphite shafts are the way to go. Adding these into each golf club will help you alleviate injury as they don’t provide as much vibrations up the shaft. This will help your wrists, hands, shoulders, and elbows.
Lighter weight shafts might help even more if you have a back or neck injury too.
Graphite iron shafts don’t tend to last as long as steel shafts since they’re much lighter but that doesn’t mean you’ll need to replace them often. For example, I’ve played the same shaft in my driver for years and play or practice 3-4X a week!
Most putter shafts are steel shafts but now there are graphite options too. Here’s what GolfWeek said about graphites shafts in putters.
“According to brands that make graphite putter shafts, the advantage they can have over their steel counterparts is versatility.
A typical steel putter weighs about 125 grams and to create one that is more flexible, manufacturers typically need to make the walls thinner, which also makes the shaft lighter. Conversely, to make a steel shaft stiffer, they need to make the walls of the shaft thicker, which adds more weight.”
Since graphite shafts are much lighter, companies can layer the shaft at different angles to change stiffness but maintain the same weight. Plus, graphite shafts can help minimize face twisting and get the golf ball rolling at your target more often. It’s something to consider if you feel like your putter itself is great but need to get out of a putting slump.
The only downside is that graphite shafts cost substantially more than a normal steel putting shaft.
Yes, a graphite iron shaft should increase distance, sometimes substantially for certain types of players. Golfers hit graphite shafts so much further than steel because they are so much lighter.
It’s not uncommon for graphite irons to weigh half the amount of steel golf clubs. Lighter shafts are easier to swing faster, which leads to more clubhead speed, which corresponds to more total distance.
Thankfully golf manufacturers are constantly finding ways to make this challenging game a little easier with better shafts. Now, there are more options than ever when it comes to swinging the right shaft for your golf game.
Most everyday golfers will benefit from using graphite shafts.
Don’t play the wrong golf shaft anymore. It’s time to ditch the stigma of using graphite and instead, playing shafts that make golf easier. Don’t forget, some of the best players in the world with insanely high swing speeds choose graphite too.
If you’re still debating graphite or steel, this quote from Andrew Tursky, a senior equipment editor forGolf.com said it best, “I’ll go as far as saying that more than 50 percent of golfers would find better performance and a more pleasurable experience by switching to graphite. Composite shaft companies have made huge strides in creating iron shafts that mimic the dispersion of steel shafts, but provide more height, speed and better feel.”
Pretty much every type of golfer should play graphite shafts in their driver and fairway wood. But don’t forget, there are tons of different types of shafts as flex, weight, shaft length and tip flex all factor in too. If you’re a committed golfer, sometimes it’s worth doing a professional fitting or at least testing out different shafts with a launch monitor.
When buying a new club or set of clubs, always make sure the shafts are right for your swing!
The shaft of the golf club is often ignored when it comes to performance, but it is the engine of the golf club. The length, flex, torque, kick-point, weight and alignment of the shaft all have an effect on the performance of your golf club. What does this all mean? Let us explain…
Steel shafts are stronger, more durable and generally less expensive than graphite and are made from carbon steel, although stainless steel is sometimes used.
Steel shafts do not experience the torque or lateral twisting found in all graphite shafts and therefore most players would benefit by having steel shafts in their irons. They offer more control on shots and have a greater emphasis on accuracy than distance than graphite shafts. Steel shafts do require a faster swing speed to generate the same distance as a graphite shaft. Steel shafts are recommended for players with normal swing speeds who could use a little extra control in their game.
There are two main types of steel shaft:
Stepped steel shafts are used to gradually reduce the diameter of the shaft from the wider butt end to the narrower tip end that goes into the hosel of the clubhead.
A steel strip is rolled into a tube and then mechanically drawn until the diameter and thickness is correct. The step pattern is then formed and the walls are made thinner at the tip and thicker at the top to produce the flexibility or kickpoints. The shaft is then hardened and straightened and finally chrome plated. This advanced manufacturing process offers consistency from shaft to shaft and gives the same stiffness throughout an entire set. Stepped steel shafts are used in the majority of golf clubs by all the major manufacturers.
The main difference with Rifle shafts is that the steel is smooth from top to bottom and has no steps.
The shaft design and construction uses different technologies to provide greater performance and consistency. Frequency Matching of each shaft perfectly matches the flex throughout a set of clubs using electronic calibration. Flexes in Rifle shafts can also be more exactly tailored for the average golfer as they use decimals to meaure stiffness (eg 5.0, 5.5, 6.0, etc). The stepless design technology eliminates the energy-robbing steps’ found on most other steel shafts, which Rifle manufacturers claim provides greater accuracy. Some Rifle shafts offer ‘flighted’ versions that can produce variable ball trajectories for different clubs within a single set.
Generally graphite is more expensive than steel and less durable. The lighter weight provides greater swing speed for more power, but it sacrifices control due to the flex generated during the swing.
The variation in flexes (and colours) make graphite shafts a very popular choice with professionals and amateurs alike. They are also suited to lady golfers and seniors who cannot produce the swing speed to use a steel shaft effectively.The shaft is produced using Graphite tape, with an expoy binder, wrapped around a steel mandrel. The shaft is then heated and the mandrel removed. After it has cooled, the shaft is sanded and cut, it is painted.Graphite golf club shafts can reduce the weight of your club (you can really feel the difference if you’ve used steel shafts before).
They weigh between 50-85 grams, while their steel counterparts generally start at 120 grams. Graphite shafts also dampen shaft vibration better than steel which is why several high profile injured golf pros recovering from surgery use them to receover. On the downside it is more difficult than steel to get a consistent feel and stiffness in a set of graphite shafted irons.Graphite shafts are great for getting greater distances from today’s oversize titanium drivers as they allow shafts to be longer. But remember, longer clubs are good for distance, not for control. Lighter than steel and can be made in many variations, making it easier to select a shaft best suited to your game.
The major negative of graphite shafts is that they need looked after more than steel shafts. Make sure you have extra long headcovers on woods or padded dividers in your golf bag so that the paint on the graphite shaft does not get worn off, as this will negatively affect the performance of the shaft.
A recent addition to the shaft market is the multi-material shaft. Used on both irons and drivers, this shaft combines both steel and graphite into one shaft to try and get the best of both worlds.
Typically it is mainly a steel shaft that has a graphite tip. The steel section of the shaft offers a solid shaft that allows players to control the ball flight more. The graphite tip lets the driver have a limited amount of ‘whip’ into the ball that can help produce more distance. The graphite tip also helps filter out any unwanted vibrations at contact to optimize the feel of each shot.
Titanium is a relatively new material in shafts and there is not currently much information available about the manufacturing process. The shaft itself is lightweight (titanium being lighter than steel) and it has the ability to dampen vibrations, although this can give the shaft a stiff feel.
Nanofuse shafts are not steel, but they are metallic. They’re not graphite, but they are firmly rooted in carbon fibre.
They are created by fusing a nanocrystalline alloy with a carbon fibre composite polymer sublayer. The manufacturers claim this gives you a shaft with the consistency of steel and the distance and feel benefits of graphite, without any of the downsides. The key lies in an unimaginably small and tight grain structure in the NanoFuse material, increases strength dramatically which is so strong that the weight of the shaft can be reduced for distance without losing any of the stregnth which helps accuracy.
Flex is the most important factor in the shaft as it affects distance and direction. Getting the correct flex in your golf equipment is of the utmost importance. The flex is a rating of a golf club shaft’s ability to bend during the golf swing. All shafts, no matter how stiff, exhibit flex under the forces of the golf swing. A player with a very fast swing will require a shaft with less flex, while a player with a slower swing will need a shaft with greater flex.
Flex is generally rated as Extra Stiff (XS), Stiff(S), Firm(F), Regular(R), Senior(S), Amateur(A) and Ladies(L). The less the bend in a shaft, the more control a powerful swinger will have. On the other hand, beginners and those with less powerful swings generally use a shaft with greater flexibility. The average swing speed with a driver is from 65 miles per hour for the beginner up to over 100 miles per hour for powerful swingers.
Different shaft manufacturers have differences in their specifications of flex. One manufacturer’s regular flex might be another’s firm flex. There are 2 methods of measuring flex. The more traditional Shaft Deflection Board and the modern Frequency Analyzer. Both are effective in the measurement of flex. Stiffness defines the bending characteristics of the shaft when weight is applied. Frequency is another way of defining stiffness and indicates how fast a club will vibrate with that particular shaft. The stiffer the shaft the faster the vibration. If you have a low swing speed, more flexible shafts will propel the ball more at the downswing. If you have a high swing speed, a stiffer shaft avoids lagging clubheads.
Torque is the twisting movement of the shaft during the golf swing. It is measured in degrees and shown as a rating that gives information about the ‘twisting’ characteristics. The higher the rating, the more the shaft twists and vice versa. The more torque a shaft has, the softer it will feel. A shaft with a 3 degree torque will feel much stiffer that one that has 5 degree torque. Every shaft, graphite or steel, has a certain amount of torque. Most steel shafts have up to about 3 degrees of torque. Torque however has a slight effect on ball trajectory, with the lower the torque, the lower the trajectory.
This defines the point where the shaft bends and affects the trajectory of the shot. The effect is small but measurable. A shaft with a high kick-point will usually give a low shot trajectory and more of a ‘one-piece’ feel to the shaft. A low Kick-point will usually give a high shot trajectory and a feeling of the shaft tip whipping the clubhead through.
Kick-point will also affect the feel of the shaft. Some club specialists will dispute this by saying that the Kick-point and bend-point are the same. Bend-point is the highest point of the shaft when it is bending by applying pressure to both ends of the shaft. Kick-point is the highest point the shaft is bending, by clamping down the grip and pressure is applied onto the club head, like in the swing. There will be some shafts where both bending points are similar or very close.
The weight is the actual weight of the raw, uncut shaft before installation, in grams. Lighter shafts mean lighter total weight and therefore the prospect of additional clubhead speed and more distance.
Have you noticed that sometimes you will have a favorite club in a set of clubs that you just seem to hit better and more consistently than the others? This is most likely due to the fact that the spine in that club happens by chance to be correctly aligned in the club. The opposite is probably true for the club in the set that you can’t seem to hit well at all!
Most golf shafts have some sort of minor irregularity in them that is inherent in the manufacturing process. This could be from the join of the shaft, the shaft not being perfectly round; the material of the shaft may be just slightly heavier on one side of the shaft than the other, or from an imperfection in the shaft material. This can cause the shaft to bend towards a certain point when you swing, causing the clubface to open or close.
You can get your clubs ‘Spine Aligned’ to sort this problem out. What they do is test the shaft to determine the characteristics of the golf shaft. Then the shaft can be installed so that the spine of the shaft is directly behind your target line. This way it does not affect the direction of your shot.
Parallel tip shafts are the same diameter for a specific distance up from the tip. Taper tip shafts reduce in diameter to a specific location on the shaft tip section. Taper tipped shafts and parallel tipped shafts do play similar to one another. The only difference between the two is tip diameter and weight. Taper tip shafts are constant weight, meaning that each shaft weighs the same from the long irons to the wedges. Parallel tip shafts have a descending weight through the set.
Pureing is a patented process that locates the most stable plane of the shaft, regardless of type or manufacturing process. Using a number of mathematical formulas, Pure computer software reveals how round, how straight and how stiff each shaft is and allows the operator to mark the dominant orientation that is most consistent. By installing each shaft so that the marked area is placed in a neutral position, every shaft or club within a set will have the exact same Plane of Uniform Repeatability (PURE). PUREing does not rely on human judgement – it is a science that is accurate to less than 1 degree.
Once the shaft is installed, you must then determine the proper length. This is just as important as flex, torque or anything else to do with the shaft. To determine the length of your club, stand up straight and have someone measure from the crease where your wrist and hand meet to the floor. Do this with both hands and take an average. It is critical that the irons be cut at a length that is suitable to that particular player’s height & distance from their hands to the floor.
The importance of length, according to research, is extreme: Ball impact that is 0.5 inches off-centre equates to a 7% loss of carry distance. An impact that is 1 inch off-centre equates to a 14% loss of carry distance. So, while longer shafts can certainly provide greater overall distance, the key to choosing the right driver is finding the longest one that provides a repeating, solid hit.
The following table shows what length of shafts you should consider for certain heights. If the crease where your wrist and hand meet to the floor is:
The length of the shaft is measured from the top of the grip to the base of the heel of the club as it lies on the ground.
In recent years, custom fitting has been brought to the forefront of the golfing public’s mind. What once was reserved for Tour players and the best amateurs is now available to any golfer who’s willing to spend the time and money to get a properly fitted set of clubs. With today’s technology and vast amount of products to examine, an experienced club fitter can truly solve the shaft mystery. Custom fitting can be done with woods, irons, wedges and even putters from most manufacturers. Fitters will work with you to decide the custom fit lie angles, face angles, lofts, lengths, swing weights and other options.
For the intrepid golfer, custom fitting is the passport to better golf. A comprehensive custom fitting process will usually go through a 4 step system that includes static fitting, dynamic fitting, ball flight analysis and ongoing analysis.
The first step, static fitting, requires the golfer to record his or her physical characteristics, including height, wrist-to-floor measurement, hand length and finger length. These pieces of information give the fitter an idea of what club length, lie angle and grip size might be appropriate.
Next, the golfer goes through a dynamic fitting, which consists of actually hitting golf balls with face tape attached to the club. During this process, the fitter observes the golfer’s swing motion, posture, clubhead speed, level of flexibility and swing path. All of this information, including the location of the face hits, is used to help determine what club makeup works with the individual’s physical ability.
After the dynamic fitting, a ball flight observation session follows in which the fitter works with the golfer on the range to fine-tune the fit of the club. The curvature of shots, the trajectory, carry distance and general flight characteristics are all carefully observed and discussed until both the fitter and golfer are convinced that the proper club and shaft specifications have been determined for optimal tee-box performance. Sometimes this aspect of fitting is done on indoor state of the art simulators.
Finally, an ongoing observation process, in which the golfer carefully notes his or her performance with the chosen driver and reports back to the fitter (if necessary) is used. This information is discussed, and any necessary adjustments can be made to correct the problem. This portion of the fitting process is considered extremely important because the goal of a fitted and custom-built club is to provide optimum performance over a long period of time. Without an ongoing process, this goal isn’t always met.
Custom fitting may well increase the cost of your set of clubs, but the benefits in terms of performance (and not changing clubs so often) are worth the extra money.
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